Has anyone seen their F3's oil indicator light go on?

[Wildrice]

Has anyone ever seen it light?? I changed oil AMSOIL Metric 10-40 all Synthetic & replaced the oil filter. I let both oil plugs drain for 1-2 hrs. Then following a procedure I've done for 50 yrs I start the engine after the oil drain stops dripping--let it idle or accelerate to 2K RPM for a short rev for approx 20-30 seconds--there is plenty of oil on the rings & cyl walls to prevent damage. After turning the engine off approx another pint of dirty oil flows out of both drain plugs combined. I wiped the oil filter canister clean. Installed a new oil filter, then I poured in 5 quarts of oil--started for 30 seconds--no oil shown on the dip stick after 2 min rest. Then I added another 1/2 quart which barely touched the dip stick--I poured in the remainder of the 6th quart--went for a 3 mile ride--ran good--but the dip stick shows oil at the middle bubble which is the low end of acceptable volume.
How come I read about guys that change oil on the 1330 engine with 5.3 quarts?? Yes I stick the dip stick all the way in--even turn it closed. The oil level was in the center of the acceptable level which I initially got the F3's. I think I may have added 1/4-1/2 quart in the 2240 miles--top speed was 110 in 5th gear on the 6 speed thumb shift automatic. At oil change I didn't notice any significant metal on the magnetic oil plug. 6 quarts of oil with dip stick measuring in the low end of acceptablenojoke
Darrell

 

[Lastchance]

Take a longer ride like 10 mi and it will show overfull

 

[Wildrice]

Take a longer ride like 10 mi and it will show overfull

Maybe I need to stretch my oil dipstick :hun: I rode it approx 50+ miles with the longest being a 15 mi each way round trip. I checked the oil dipstick at the grocery parking lot & my garage to make sure the surface angle didn't do a major influence. A full 6 quarts of oil & filter--I even recounted the remaining containers in the AMSOIL 12 quart case. The oil on the dipstick is just a touch above the minimum acceptable level.
So when I stretch my dipstick--I'm thinking placing one end in my stationary work bench vice & tying the other end to the back of my riding lawn mower--your thoughts on this approach???ray:
Darrell

 

[Lastchance]

Only thing I can think of is that starting it with no oil then drain more, did mine a couple weeks ago 5qts half way up then added a couple oz and full mark

 

[Sam Mac]

Has anyone ever seen it light?? I changed oil AMSOIL Metric 10-40 all Synthetic & replaced the oil filter. I let both oil plugs drain for 1-2 hrs. Then following a procedure I've done for 50 yrs I start the engine after the oil drain stops dripping--let it idle or accelerate to 2K RPM for a short rev for approx 20-30 seconds--there is plenty of oil on the rings & cyl walls to prevent damage. After turning the engine off approx another pint of dirty oil flows out of both drain plugs combined. I wiped the oil filter canister clean. Installed a new oil filter, then I poured in 5 quarts of oil--started for 30 seconds--no oil shown on the dip stick after 2 min rest. Then I added another 1/2 quart which barely touched the dip stick--I poured in the remainder of the 6th quart--went for a 3 mile ride--ran good--but the dip stick shows oil at the middle bubble which is the low end of acceptable volume.
How come I read about guys that change oil on the 1330 engine with 5.3 quarts?? Yes I stick the dip stick all the way in--even turn it closed. The oil level was in the center of the acceptable level which I initially got the F3's. I think I may have added 1/4-1/2 quart in the 2240 miles--top speed was 110 in 5th gear on the 6 speed thumb shift automatic. At oil change I didn't notice any significant metal on the magnetic oil plug. 6 quarts of oil with dip stick measuring in the low end of acceptablenojoke
Darrell

Glad this is not my engine. Why would you run an engine with no oil for 30 seconds just to get maybe a pint of oil out of it? The damage your doing running with no oil is just asking for trouble. :banghead:

 

[Wildrice]

Glad this is not my engine. Why would you run an engine with no oil for 30 seconds just to get maybe a pint of oil out of it? The damage your doing running with no oil is just asking for trouble. :banghead:

I didn't have a stop watch on it--maybe it was 10-15 seconds. If you can drain your oil & not have any oil left on the cylinder walls & piston rings then you are a magician. It also would indicate you have no oil on those surfaces when you initially start the engine or when you let it sit over the Winter months. How's that work anyway ??--There are several rings on the pistons--one is the bottom oil ring ....How did those last few cups of dirty contaminated oil get out to the drain plugs--did it skip the engine path???
Darrell

 

[Sam Mac]

Darrell

It's not the rings that concern me. What your doing is running the main and rod journals dry along with things like cam followers and every other part that is pressure lubricated. Why do you think a race engine is pre-lubed before starting? It takes maybe a minute before oil is pumped through the engine on startup. I made my living running a concrete and rock quarry business, my engines routinely lasted 18,000 hours before overhaul and even at that amount of hours the main and rod bearings were still in spec for reuse. Some of those engines cost over $85,000.00 and took 55 gals of oil for an oil change. The oil that you are so concerned about removing has already been filtered so while it may be slightly dark it is not going to cause a problem when mixed with new oil. If you don't trust what I'm telling you feel free to check with any engine builder or better yet tell BRP what your doing and I'd bet your warranty will be terminated. Your engine your wallet have at it.

 

[Wildrice]

Darrell

It's not the rings that concern me. What your doing is running the main and rod journals dry along with things like cam followers and every other part that is pressure lubricated. Why do you think a race engine is pre-lubed before starting? It takes maybe a minute before oil is pumped through the engine on startup. I made my living running a concrete and rock quarry business, my engines routinely lasted 18,000 hours before overhaul and even at that amount of hours the main and rod bearings were still in spec for reuse. Some of those engines cost over $85,000.00 and took 55 gals of oil for an oil change. The oil that you are so concerned about removing has already been filtered so while it may be slightly dark it is not going to cause a problem when mixed with new oil. If you don't trust what I'm telling you feel free to check with any engine builder or better yet tell BRP what your doing and I'd bet your warranty will be terminated. Your engine your wallet have at it.

OK---I agree :bowdown: Thank you for your assistance.
Darrell

 

[GOZFST]

Darrell

It's not the rings that concern me. What your doing is running the main and rod journals dry along with things like cam followers and every other part that is pressure lubricated. Why do you think a race engine is pre-lubed before starting? It takes maybe a minute before oil is pumped through the engine on startup. I made my living running a concrete and rock quarry business, my engines routinely lasted 18,000 hours before overhaul and even at that amount of hours the main and rod bearings were still in spec for reuse. Some of those engines cost over $85,000.00 and took 55 gals of oil for an oil change. The oil that you are so concerned about removing has already been filtered so while it may be slightly dark it is not going to cause a problem when mixed with new oil. If you don't trust what I'm telling you feel free to check with any engine builder or better yet tell BRP what your doing and I'd bet your warranty will be terminated. Your engine your wallet have at it.

+1, dry sump motors typically have higher oil pressure than wet sumps and no oil pressure is VERY BAD on bearings. I'm curious as to your thread headline about the oil light. Typically the oil light isn't low oil volume, but rather low oil pressure. If your oil pressure light is on that's not good.

 

[spyderCodes]

Like most engines the oil pressure switch on the 1330 that turns on the oil light is set to trip at ridiculously low pressure from a practical real world view.

I think it's in the neighborhood of 6 to 8 psi.
When the pressure reaches that level and trips the light while ryding it means you are screwed.

It's the Spyder Blue Screen of Death.

 

[Wildrice]

+1, dry sump motors typically have higher oil pressure than wet sumps and no oil pressure is VERY BAD on bearings. I'm curious as to your thread headline about the oil light. Typically the oil light isn't low oil volume, but rather low oil pressure. If your oil pressure light is on that's not good.

Bob, My oil light has the opposite issue. It only comes on when I initially turn the key on to start the engine--maybe for 1-2 seconds max. I don't remember seeing it for the 10-15 approx seconds running it after & drained the initial oil. That's why I was asking about an oil pressure gauge on another topic. F3's runs fine--occasionally I shift close to red line--engine is much quieter than when I initially picked up the bike. I thought it sounded terrible then but it has improved considerably--I have the [FONT=verdana, geneva, lucida, lucida grande, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]Akrapovic chrome muffler--after 2000 miles it has a nice baffle sound on de-acceleration plus full power. Not sure where the additional 2 cups + of oil was in the engine. A true dry sump has minimal oil in the crankcase oil pan. My F3's drained at least twice as much oil from the Engine/trans oil plug as it did from the oil reservoir thus I'm thinking it must be a hybrid -- 100% dry sump oil systems cost $$money[/FONT]:yikes: but thanks for the feedback.
Darrell

 

[Wildrice]

Like most engines the oil pressure switch on the 1330 that turns on the oil light is set to trip at ridiculously low pressure from a practical real world view.

I think it's in the neighborhood of 6 to 8 psi.
When the pressure reaches that level and trips the light while ryding it means you are screwed.

It's the Spyder Blue Screen of Death.

Thanks for this info--very interesting--yes I would have thought 30 psi--maybe that's why I never saw the light. Initially I said 15-30 seconds running without oil but that was a wild ass guess while listening for any potential problems. 10-15 seconds probably more realistic & I only nudged the throttle once to less than 2000 rpm for 1 second.
6-8 psi would make the oil light worthless. I've had 2 Yamaha's, 2 Harley's, 3 Suzuki's & this F3. I've only lost one engine on oil pressure & that was the 2003 Harley Deuce when the oil pump gear broke off in town at 35 mph--Didn't see any lights but when the sun was bright--one can't see the gauge's anyway. I did hear the bottom end pounding--trying to get home another 2 miles when I parked it--don't know how long I was riding after the oil pump gear broke off & I started hearing -feeling the engine noise.
Darrell

 

[Cobranut]

I didn't have a stop watch on it--maybe it was 10-15 seconds. If you can drain your oil & not have any oil left on the cylinder walls & piston rings then you are a magician. It also would indicate you have no oil on those surfaces when you initially start the engine or when you let it sit over the Winter months. How's that work anyway ??--There are several rings on the pistons--one is the bottom oil ring ....How did those last few cups of dirty contaminated oil get out to the drain plugs--did it skip the engine path???
Darrell

The rings aren't the issue. Every second without oil pressure is doing damage to your bearings.
I'd NEVER start an engine without oil, and would even be hesitant about cranking it.
That half pint of old oil isn't going to make a bit of difference.

Bob, My oil light has the opposite issue. It only comes on when I initially turn the key on to start the engine--maybe for 1-2 seconds max. I don't remember seeing it for the 10-15 approx seconds running it after & drained the initial oil. That's why I was asking about an oil pressure gauge on another topic. F3's runs fine--occasionally I shift close to red line--engine is much quieter than when I initially picked up the bike. I thought it sounded terrible then but it has improved considerably--I have the [FONT=verdana, geneva, lucida, lucida grande, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]Akrapovic chrome muffler--after 2000 miles it has a nice baffle sound on de-acceleration plus full power. Not sure where the additional 2 cups + of oil was in the engine. A true dry sump has minimal oil in the crankcase oil pan. My F3's drained at least twice as much oil from the Engine/trans oil plug as it did from the oil reservoir thus I'm thinking it must be a hybrid -- 100% dry sump oil systems cost $$money[/FONT]:yikes: but thanks for the feedback.
Darrell

My new to me 2015 F3S has this same issue.
I'd expect the oil pressure light to come on and remain on whenever the switch is on and the engine not running.
Mine flashes during the bulb test, then I never see it again.
I've even stalled the engine to see if it would come on, no dice. I did test the circuit with an ohmmeter, and there is continuity to the ECU, but even shorting the conncetor with the engine running produces no warning. I think it's a software bug with the CAN bus.
I've found several startup videos on Marketplace of 15 F3's and they seem to do the same.
I added a gauge to mine so I can monitor what's really happening.

 

[ARtraveler]

ldpost:

This particlar thread has been dormant since August/2016. :bowdown: