Hard jerks when down shifts

[bmwlarry]

My 2011 did that from the time I got it at 250 miles. The surging was so violent I hated it. It wasn't until I had a loaner that I realized that this was not supposed to happen! I had my tech check it and found the clutch was shot. Apparently the fellow that put the first 250 mils on it ran at too low RPM. The new clutch fixed the problem. I too believe it may be low clutch oil.

 

[wis2013rtltd]

Our 13' since day one has used 1/2-3/4 quart every 1,000 miles

and I am guessing yours is low on oil. I manually downshift ours at 2,800 rpms and when it has the correct oil level it shifts up and down smoothly. I would have anticipated when you purchased your Spyder the dealer during delivery would have demonstrated how to check your oil. You can do a search here and there is a wealth of info. on the topic.-Good Riding.

 

[Spyder Tony]

One more "agree" for low oil...

Our '13 ST-L also exhibited rough shifting pattern when we bought her initially...come to find out I wasn't checking the oil frequently enough. We were doing 600-800 miles each weekend, and I was checking the oil every 2-3 weeks. I now check it pretty much after each weekend trip and keep her topped off.

As a side note, when it's cold outside, the RPM's vacillate on our Spyders anywhere from 1300 to 1900 RPMs. This only lasts a few minutes, then they both settle down to between 1350 and 1400 RPMs. If you are hopping on your bike without letting it properly warm up, it may explain the surging...especially if it only lasts a short while as you indicated. During the cold months, I let the Spyder warm up for a few before backing her out of the driveway.

In any case, here's to hoping it is a minor problem!!!
You might want to have the dealership perform the ECM update for the '13 campaign as well...if you haven't already done so, that is.

 

[Captainpaul]

Tyranny issues

My 2013 rt ltd started to give me shifting problems Wednesday afternoon, by yesterday didn't want to shift at all. It is in shop being tended to, pump problem!

 

[cuznjohn]

trailor mode

i now keep my bike in trailer mode and it down shifts better than it did b4

 

[Bob Denman]

Sandy,
Checking the oil level isn't really a tough thing to do at all...
First; figure out how to remove that left center panel (The one with the chrome "Can Am" on it.)
The instructions in the manual are really good at walking you through it.
Once you've done it a couple of times... :2thumbs:
Next: Take the bike for a nice, ride; :lecturef_smilie: get it FULLY warmed-up!!
Get it "back to the barn", and let it idle for at least 30 seconds...
While this is happening; get yourself a hunk of a rag, or a paper towel...
After the idling requirement has been met; shut the bike down.
unscrew the dipstick, and wipe it clean on the rag that you found...
Then, re-insert the dipstick, and screw it in fully!
Now you unscrew it, and read the oil level on it...
You'll see an "Upper" mark... (you don't want it above that: too much oil!
A "lower" mark... NEVER below that! :yikes:
The "Operating Range", is between those 2 marks. :thumbup:
Good Luck!

 

[Sandysandals]

Thanks

Thank for all the replies. Of course it didn't happen at the dealer....BUT I had them change the oil, it was about time anyway...and guess what? It stopped surging forward and now shifts smooth as silk. I will now check the oil myself....but the mechanic told me to always check the oil when its hot....because when it's cold, the oil will show low because of the short dipstick. Anyway, thank you all and I'm not so stressed about it....now I am out and about and enjoying Bike Week here in Daytona.
Charlotte:clap:

 

[Bob Denman]

Glad to hear that the "Shifting Gremlins" have vanished! :2thumbs:

 

[chuck gross]

Glad to hear your Spyder is running smooth have a great time at Bike week :thumbup:

 

[xcopnyc]

SHIFTING PROBLEM

In Daytona for Bike Week. The throttle assembly went out which affects the shifting. It was sad to see RTL on the back of a tow. Local dealer DAYTONA FUN MACHINES had one in stock. Took me right in as I bought the wheels from them. 24 Hours later back on MAIN ST. Thanks to Roxie service writer & Mark service Mgr. GET THAT THING CHECKED RIGHT AWAY .:yes:Glad it was still under warranty approx. cost with labor $1400.

 

[jcthorne]

:thumbup:

i now keep my bike in trailer mode and it down shifts better than it did b4

I do the same and it shifts and downshifts much better. Also keeps the RPMs out of the 'danger zone' I set Louise bike to trailer mode when we picked it up. She has never ridden it without trailer mode on. Coming from a Harley, it was easier to learn the shift RPM this way too.

 

[Bob Ledford]

This is all a bit overwhelming. I have a 2013 RT Limited....the other day, right after I started off....when I came to a red light, twice, it would really jerk hard when it downshifted. It only happened twice, but in every gear down. Then it smoothed out and has not done it since. Anyone experience this? Should I take it to the shop to have the transmission checked? It has about 6500 miles on it. :helpsmilie:

SS

What you have experienced I think is something all of us have experienced. I notice mt RTL SE-5 doing the same thing at times. I can duplicate it by making a rapid deceleration when it is hot or a slow deceleration when it is cold. Have you ever had the engine oil changed? I know that you keep it looking good on the outside but the inside I don't know about?