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Hard jerks when down shifts

Sandysandals

New member
This is all a bit overwhelming. I have a 2013 RT Limited....the other day, right after I started off....when I came to a red light, twice, it would really jerk hard when it downshifted. It only happened twice, but in every gear down. Then it smoothed out and has not done it since. Anyone experience this? Should I take it to the shop to have the transmission checked? It has about 6500 miles on it. :helpsmilie:
 
if this is something unusual about your Spyder, i would have the dealer check it the first chance i get.

Cruzr Joe
 
The computers will normally "rev' the engine a bit on the downshift. This is supposed to help take some load off of the drivetrain by making sure that the engine's higher rpm level, will match up smoother once the clutches grab tight again.
Are you letting the "ESSIE" downshift automatically? Try kicking it down through the gears yourself, and see if that makes any difference.
Good Luck! :thumbup:
 
I usually manually downshift the tranny at about 4000 rpm (2nd to first about 3000 rpm). I don't like the manual downshifts with the rev/clunk feel. I find a smooth, seamless shift by doing it manually. As mentioned above though, if you are experiencing a different action than you are used to, it might be a good idea to visit the shop.
 
Thanks to all

I just took it out to wash it and it did it again. It is accelerating big time on the shifts....and this just started. It's going to the shop first thing in the morning.....funny thing is, once it warms up, it doesn't do it any more....it's smooth as silk both manual shift and auto shift....just when it first starts up and maybe 2 or 3 slow downs. But it accelerates hard enough that I could rear end someone....so I stay way back and keep braking. It's pretty scary.....so we'll see. Thanks for the replies. :dg2:
 
The computers will normally "rev' the engine a bit on the downshift. This is supposed to help take some load off of the drivetrain by making sure that the engine's higher rpm level, will match up smoother once the clutches grab tight again.
Are you letting the "ESSIE" downshift automatically? Try kicking it down through the gears yourself, and see if that makes any difference.
Good Luck! :thumbup:

Thanks Bob......I will try that in the morning when I take it to the shop.
 
I usually manually downshift the tranny at about 4000 rpm (2nd to first about 3000 rpm). I don't like the manual downshifts with the rev/clunk feel. I find a smooth, seamless shift by doing it manually. As mentioned above though, if you are experiencing a different action than you are used to, it might be a good idea to visit the shop.

I was told to always shift between 5000 and 6000 rpm. I keep the rpms high....maybe too high. Will talk to the mechanic in the morning.
 
I was told to always shift between 5000 and 6000 rpm. I keep the rpms high....maybe too high. Will talk to the mechanic in the morning.

Quote from post #4: "I usually manually downshift the tranny at about 4000 rpm (2nd to first about 3000 rpm). I don't like the manual downshifts with the rev/clunk feel. I find a smooth, seamless shift by doing it manually. As mentioned above though, if you are experiencing a different action than you are used to, it might be a good idea to visit the shop. "

My suggestion for the shifting rpms had to do with "downshifting" only. I always use the 5000-6000 rpms on the upshifting--just like you were recommended. :thumbup:
 
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If I let my 2013 RT-S downshift on it's own it does surge forward just a bit when going from 2nd to 1st. If I down shift myself, which I do 95% of the time, it's nice and smooth. You RPM sensor, that tells the transmission to down shift, may be waiting until the RPMs drop too much and then the RPM increase seems excessive. It will be interesting what the BUDS shows. Keep us posted.
 
I've noticed on my ST-Ltd that when the oil is good and full it shifts nicely but after a 1000 miles or so it starts to clink a little. Hows the oil level?
 
I've noticed on my ST-Ltd that when the oil is good and full it shifts nicely but after a 1000 miles or so it starts to clink a little. Hows the oil level?

I will have the oil checked and possibly changed tomorrow....I need to learn how to check it myself. The oil was changed about 2500 miles ago so it should be ok....but I'll find out.
 
My manual says to check it every 300 miles. I did a 1500 miles weekend and the dip stick read low but OK. I added a 1/4 of a qt and feel good. If the level goes below the dip stick then its about 1/2 qt low and many with automatics have serious shifting problems. Like it won't shift at all.

Its not that hard, the complicated part is getting the side cover back on! :-)
 
Hopefully it's just a minor glitch!
That's a nice lookin' Spyder you have there! :2thumbs:

Thank you....I love my Viking chariot. It's so much fun. I'm putting it on the auto train in June and going from Sanford Florida to Lorton Virginia, then ride the Blue Ridge home...can't wait. Love my Spydee.
 
I will have the oil checked and possibly changed tomorrow....I need to learn how to check it myself. The oil was changed about 2500 miles ago so it should be ok....but I'll find out.

If you have not checked it in 2500 miles it is probably low. It will do what you are describing when it gets low.
Have them show you how to take that panel off and check it.
 
low oil = hard shifts

It sounds like your oil is low my Wife's RT has had similar shifting issues when the oil got low one time. Have your dealer show you how to check it it is really quite simple
 
Have done the new update for the 13 teens, and oil ck after a long hard ride would be good to do? Ck all update and oil very important to do ASAP..
 
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