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Handbrake - Re-visted

Many brands

New member
Handbrake - Re-Visited Just finished installing ISCI Handbrake. Seems to work, O.K.
Takes a bit more force than "other" handbrakes, on eg. two wheel bikes.
Took about 9 hours to install. (Had a Few issues) But Robert at ISCI was very helpful.
If you need (want) it -- buy it.
 
Handbrake - Re-Visited Just finished installing ISCI Handbrake. Seems to work, O.K.
Takes a bit more force than "other" handbrakes, on eg. two wheel bikes.
Took about 9 hours to install. (Had a Few issues) But Robert at ISCI was very helpful.
If you need (want) it -- buy it.

I have one and noticed the same thing.
I hope to fix the hard pull by replacing the extra ISCI return spring with a weaker one from Lowe's.
The new mechanism should not require THAT much extra return pressure.
I have the spring but don't have it installed yet.

Then.....the reach to the lever is too wide for me. So I bought an adjustable lever.
Then.....I noticed that there was some extra free play before the lever engaged the MS piston. I fixed that with some washers.
Then.....after a few months I am noticing that it takes more lever motion before the brake pedal starts to move. I'm hoping that can be fixed with a bleeding.

So, "out of the box" I don't think it is worth the price.
I am hoping that the problems can be fixed though.
 
I must have either a newer model or because mine is a RT. BUT I have no return spring, I do think that was for the earler models.
"Out of the Box" I think not..
In fact, if there is anyone reading this, and wants one -- I will put mine back in the box -- and sell if to them, for 1/2 prioce.
 
I must have either a newer model or because mine is a RT. BUT I have no return spring, I do think that was for the earler models.
"Out of the Box" I think not..

Mine IS an RT.....and the "kit" is less than 6 months old.
When I talked to IRC they mentioned changing the spring sometime in their design but made no mention of a model without one.

A slight extra return spring is needed to keep the added mechanism from preventing the stock hardware from returning properly.
 
Handbrake

I must have either a newer model or because mine is a RT. BUT I have no return spring, I do think that was for the earler models.
"Out of the Box" I think not..
In fact, if there is anyone reading this, and wants one -- I will put mine back in the box -- and sell if to them, for 1/2 prioce.

Wow half-price not bad i'll have to think about that since I only live a few miles from you.
 
I Just put an ISCI Handbrake on my 2018 Spyder RT, and just wanted to provide my thoughts of my purchase. To summarize though, I absolutely LOVE it, and feel much more comfortable with it......coming from a 2 wheel background of 40 years. I understand all the argument about "not needed, etc", but a significant improvement IMO approach a necessity for me....although pricey.

INITIAL IMPRESSIONS: While it is expensive, it is extremely well made and packaged. As others have noted, it starts with a Harley Davidson master cylinder, and from there all of the parts appear custom fabricated. Excellent finish on all the parts, and was as fully assembled as it possibly could be straight from the box….no IKEA here. Everything needed for install was in the box, sans tools, all the way down to locktite. Came with color directions that were accurate and straightforward to follow.

INSTALL: It took me nearly 4 hours at a very leisurely pace, and spending time reading the directions over and over. It can easily be done on the ground, and no single part was beyond a moderate difficulty for a lone individual. Everything fit PERFECTLY, and all needed parts were there. I would estimate you could complete an install in 2.5 hours if you really worked through it, and were a little better at crawling along the ground. One caution I learned, the slave cylinder comes with a bleeder valve designed to bleed by yourself. The instructions CLEARLY stated to loosen it ¼ to ½ turn. Being myself, I went about a full turn. After 30 minutes pumping the brake handle, and making no progress, I tightened the valve back down to half a turn. It bled PERFECTLY then, about a 10-15 minute job. Too far open = bad.

PERFORMANCE: It is harder to use alone than most motorcycles wrt to handle pull, but not really difficult. In fact, the effort reminded more of some larger scooters I’ve ridden. You have to mean to pull it, but I could easily do an emergency stop with just the handbrake (although I do not advise that). Per the directions, they are no longer using the “extra Spring” allot of people talked about, that very well could be why the pull is very acceptable. Was great in town, really made it easy to ride

HOW I USE IT: In town, I found myself relying on just the handbrake for slow speed stops at red lights etc. At speed, I pulled the handbrake while immediately transitioning my foot to the footbrake. A huge benefit, pulling the handbrake lowers the footbrake pedal, making it seem far less like I had to lift my foot. I was far more comfortable moving my foot around the floorboard, including onto highway pegs, knowing I could start braking with the hand and catch up quickly with my foot. As one with a bad knee/Hip, this makes me feel much more comfortable (safe) on the Spyder.

WOULD I BUY AGAIN: Yes, it would be my first add on, and Can Am should have as an option IMO. I wish it was a little less expensive, but when you compare it’s cost to the RT Limited floorboards if you bought them, it really is not bad, Clearly allot of thought went into a safe and functional design, and it shows.

I know above is a little long winded, but in case anyone else is considering the handbrake……
 
I Just put an ISCI Handbrake on my 2018 Spyder RT, and just wanted to provide my thoughts of my purchase. To summarize though, I absolutely LOVE it, and feel much more comfortable with it......coming from a 2 wheel background of 40 years. I understand all the argument about "not needed, etc", but a significant improvement IMO approach a necessity for me....although pricey.

INITIAL IMPRESSIONS: While it is expensive, it is extremely well made and packaged. As others have noted, it starts with a Harley Davidson master cylinder, and from there all of the parts appear custom fabricated. Excellent finish on all the parts, and was as fully assembled as it possibly could be straight from the box….no IKEA here. Everything needed for install was in the box, sans tools, all the way down to locktite. Came with color directions that were accurate and straightforward to follow.

INSTALL: It took me nearly 4 hours at a very leisurely pace, and spending time reading the directions over and over. It can easily be done on the ground, and no single part was beyond a moderate difficulty for a lone individual. Everything fit PERFECTLY, and all needed parts were there. I would estimate you could complete an install in 2.5 hours if you really worked through it, and were a little better at crawling along the ground. One caution I learned, the slave cylinder comes with a bleeder valve designed to bleed by yourself. The instructions CLEARLY stated to loosen it ¼ to ½ turn. Being myself, I went about a full turn. After 30 minutes pumping the brake handle, and making no progress, I tightened the valve back down to half a turn. It bled PERFECTLY then, about a 10-15 minute job. Too far open = bad.

PERFORMANCE: It is harder to use alone than most motorcycles wrt to handle pull, but not really difficult. In fact, the effort reminded more of some larger scooters I’ve ridden. You have to mean to pull it, but I could easily do an emergency stop with just the handbrake (although I do not advise that). Per the directions, they are no longer using the “extra Spring” allot of people talked about, that very well could be why the pull is very acceptable. Was great in town, really made it easy to ride

HOW I USE IT: In town, I found myself relying on just the handbrake for slow speed stops at red lights etc. At speed, I pulled the handbrake while immediately transitioning my foot to the footbrake. A huge benefit, pulling the handbrake lowers the footbrake pedal, making it seem far less like I had to lift my foot. I was far more comfortable moving my foot around the floorboard, including onto highway pegs, knowing I could start braking with the hand and catch up quickly with my foot. As one with a bad knee/Hip, this makes me feel much more comfortable (safe) on the Spyder.

WOULD I BUY AGAIN: Yes, it would be my first add on, and Can Am should have as an option IMO. I wish it was a little less expensive, but when you compare it’s cost to the RT Limited floorboards if you bought them, it really is not bad, Clearly allot of thought went into a safe and functional design, and it shows.

I know above is a little long winded, but in case anyone else is considering the handbrake……

I agree with everything you say. I do not have the ISCI system. We rigged up a Suzuki M109R Clutch cable to linkage which then works just like the ISCI. It is not as strong as the ISCI but it works very well. I use it all the time, especially in stop & go traffic. When we did the Valcourt, Canada Guinness Rule Book Record, the guys behind me were really wanting to know how I could keep my feet on the highway bars and still manage the stop and go traffic.

Hand brake, not a requirement. But a very worthwhile addition in my opinion.
 
PERFORMANCE: It is harder to use alone than most motorcycles wrt to handle pull, but not really difficult.

I considered it VERY difficult. It varies depending on the size and strength of your hands.

After I got an adjustable lever for mine, I found out that most of the problem can be fixed by installing a weaker return spring, available from Lowe's.
That is, the return spring added with the kit, NOT the stock one in the brakes.
 
I considered it VERY difficult. It varies depending on the size and strength of your hands.

After I got an adjustable lever for mine, I found out that most of the problem can be fixed by installing a weaker return spring, available from Lowe's.
That is, the return spring added with the kit, NOT the stock one in the brakes.

Easy Rider, do you mean the spring below? If so, they NO LONGER use that spring....that may be why I do not believe mine is ridiculously hard. It is not as easy as some high end touring bikes ( BMW 1600 GTL etc), but I can pull mine comfortably. Very easy pull at the open position. If you go to do a full emergency stop, the pull is fairly heavy, but the handle is now over half way to the throttle, so good leverage. Note, I am not saying pull the return spring from older models, as other parts of the design may now be different ---- I believe my back unit now has a small spring built into it, but did not take picture.


spring.jpg
 
Easy Rider, do you mean the spring below?

No. The newer model spring is much smaller and mounted differently.....but it is quite a STRONG little spring.
I will try to remember to post a picture and spec's later today.

Being a hydraulic system, the extra hardware that is attached actually needs close to ZERO extra back pressure for a return.
The OEM spring probably could handle it but the extra one is there to be sure.
 
Easy Rider, do you mean the spring below?

Picture attached.

Fat spring on the left is the "new" one that comes with the kit.
One in the package came from Lowe's.

In my opinion, it is more than enough to provide a measure of safety, against something binding and the brake not completely releasing.

ISCI knew what I was going to do.......and did not tell me NOT to do it.
They even sent me a spare "stock" spring incase something went wrong with the change.
 

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