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Greasing tip

Neez

New member
To ease greasing the Spyder front end, I followed the advice of Spongebob and purchased a LIN 5883 90 degree grease gun hose end from Lincoln Lubrication. It worked like magic on most of the nipples, but not on the upper front ones, so I ground a bit of metal off the adapter to make it fit. Photo 1 shows the upper front nipple. In photo 2, we see that when the adapter is pushed on, the corners of the adapter contact the metal of the Spyder frame. This prevents the knob on the nipple from riding all the way up the ramp and into the detent, see photo 3. Photo 4 shows the solution, the leading edge of the adapter is ground away just enough to allow the nipple to enter the detent. ( note: the photos are not in order, check the numbers in the upper left corners).
 

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Video

Would someone nice make a video about this? - or someone did already?
I've heard and read about this front greasing but haven't got a slightest clue what, where, how, why, when?
:lecturef_smilie:
I know that many of you folks will kindly answer all my questions but as someone said, once seen better than 1000 times heard.
 
I don't know about the when, but the how isn't too hard, especially if you use one of the 90 degree adaptors like the one above, or if you change all 8 grease fittings to 90 degree fittings, like I did. They can be found at Ace Hardware, and they're 6mm X 1mm pitch thread. Now, as to where they are: They are located at the inner pivots of all four "A" arms, and you can see them quite easilly with light. The greasing interval is something that I've lost track of, as we are full-time RVer's and the dang owner's manual is lost in the interior of this-here trailer, and the shop manual disk is just too hard to load up for a casual look-see. Anyhow, I just shoot a squirt or two into each joint, when I do an oil change, and (so far) I see no reason for concern for my "A" arm bushings.
I predict that before the evening is over, that you'll have more info on this topic than you ever wanted, cuzz these Spyder Lovers people just love to jump on this stuff.
Good luck.:spyder2:
 
Thanks Neez. I didn't want to ruin the adapter but with your experience and pix I'll be following your example. :yes:
 
When replacing the grease fittings does the ftrunk have to be removed?

No, but mine was, anyway. Made it much easier, I'm sure. Being 90 deg. fittings, the new ones will be difficult to start, out there at arm's length, and, though mine lined up OK, for popping a grease gun on, there's always the potential for either leaving them pointed in a difficult direction, or, I suppose you could go a little too far with your twisting, and ruin the threads, in which case, you'd REALLY have to take off the frunk.nojoke
 
HOW??

I'm learning as I go. I know what a grease fitting is. (the little nipple thingy) How do I change those and how do I get them to point in the correct direction??

Or is it easier to get the gun fitting and alter it?
 
I'm learning as I go. I know what a grease fitting is. (the little nipple thingy) How do I change those and how do I get them to point in the correct direction??

Or is it easier to get the gun fitting and alter it?
If you go with the 90 nipples, do not over-tighten them trying to get them to aim in the right direction. I did that, broke one off, and ended up taking it out with an easy-out, which wasn't fun. Having tried both, I personally opt for the altered gun fitting, but others may differ.
 
I'm learning as I go. I know what a grease fitting is. (the little nipple thingy) How do I change those and how do I get them to point in the correct direction??

Or is it easier to get the gun fitting and alter it?

Speaking from experience, it would be easier to leave the existing nipples there and just 'modify' the rt/angle adapter as shown. I've removed the frunk a coupla times to successfully grease it, but no more.
 
Thanks guys! Will be looking into a part to alter. ;)

Do ya just put the adapter on a bench grinder?
Yes, that's what I did. Do it gradually, using a cup of water to cool the adapter by immersion as you go. Check it for fit on the nipple frequently, as you don't want to remove more material than necessary. Hope this helps. BTW, the fitting can be a bit difficult to get off the nipple and you don't want to use undue force to remove it lest you harm the nylon ramp inside.
 
To ease greasing the Spyder front end, I followed the advice of Spongebob and purchased a LIN 5883 90 degree grease gun hose end from Lincoln Lubrication. It worked like magic on most of the nipples, but not on the upper front ones, so I ground a bit of metal off the adapter to make it fit. Photo 1 shows the upper front nipple. In photo 2, we see that when the adapter is pushed on, the corners of the adapter contact the metal of the Spyder frame. This prevents the knob on the nipple from riding all the way up the ramp and into the detent, see photo 3. Photo 4 shows the solution, the leading edge of the adapter is ground away just enough to allow the nipple to enter the detent. ( note: the photos are not in order, check the numbers in the upper left corners).

Neez

Thanks for the info. Just purchased one of the Lin 5883 hose end. Here is a link to where I purchased /www.jbtoolsales.com/Lincoln-Lube-Grease-Coupler-Right-Angle $11.13 shipped and they take paypal. I think this is the less complicated way to go and the nipples probably cost about the same.
 
Amazon has them also.



Lincoln Lubrication 5883 Slotted Right Angle 90 Degree Coupler
Buy new: $8.50 $7.39

4 new from $5.86

Get it by Wednesday, Nov 23 if you order in the next 7 hours and choose one-day shipping.


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Neez

Thanks for the info. Just purchased one of the Lin 5883 hose end. Here is a link to where I purchased /www.jbtoolsales.com/Lincoln-Lube-Grease-Coupler-Right-Angle $11.13 shipped and they take paypal. I think this is the less complicated way to go and the nipples probably cost about the same.
 
Yup, if you're worried about getting too heavy-handed with the new grease fittings, you're better off to go with the right-angle adapter and lose the worry factor. My only experience with the RA adapter wasn't good; I never could get it to put grease through the fittings on my Bombardier
Traxter U-joints. Grease just squirted out, all around the fittings, and never got inside. That's why I changed my fittings on the Spyder, but I'll admit to some dry mouth, while finishing up the last few degrees of turning on the new ones.:pray:
 
I tried another maker of the right angle adaptor on my gun. After placing a blob of grease on the two top rear fittings I removed the adaptor and got a couple of 90 degree zerks and replaced the upper rear one on each side. With a couple of 18" flexible hoses on my grease gun I can get to all of the six remaining fittings. I had a 3" crescent that rarely has ever been used and this allowed me to get the old zerks out and after a lot of patience and a few choice words I was able to get the right angle fittings started and tightened in the proper direction without removing the frunk.
The only thing worse than greasing equipment is cleaning up an errant blob of grease from a tight area.

Many years ago my Dad gave me a pearl of wisdom concerning bolts, screws, fittings, anything with threads... ALWAYS stop at least 1/8 turn before twisting the thread off. Dad sure was wise, whenever I have followed his advise not one broken bolt or fitting. As for the few times I forgot to follow his advice I twisted threads off every time:banghead:.
 
Good idea Spyderbirds but how do you know when you've reached that point? I use a torque wrench for everything that has a spec. But here I don't know of a spec and I don't think you could get a socket over the 90-degree fitting anyway. So I resort to "feel" and experience. Just wondered how you and your dad knew you were 1/8 turn away from disaster.
 
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