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Grease front end

I normally work avionics, but I'll do just about anything for some O.T....to include greasing a 747. Although it's not the only reason to wear a bunny suit, it is a very good one. And yes, you gota love the smell of sulfur in the morning and the next morning and the next morning and the next morning....
 

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Next Question is, what is a good brand grease gun?

I have consistantly had problems getting my grease guns to function as they should.

What are you guys using, that you'd recommend?
 
I have consistantly had problems getting my grease guns to function as they should.

What are you guys using, that you'd recommend?
The usual problem is air lock. You want to be sure solid grease is getting to the plunger, so you want a gun that has some means of purging air at the top of the gun. Try holding the gun upside down a shaking it to force the grease toward the plunger, this sometimes works. Sometimes it helps to buy a new socket end for the end of the hose or tube. These are only 3 or 4 dollars and sometimes they get loose and don't fit the nipple snugly anymore, which results in grease leaking out around the ball. Get a good quality gun, as usual you get what you pay for. As I mentioned previously, lately I purchased a good pistol grip style gun which seems to work nicely on the Spyder (thanx again for the tip, Helipit).
 
Did a lot of shopping and wound up buying a new gun with a good strong spring with the type latch that holds at any point that you pull the plunger to rather than the one I already have where you have to pull the plunger all the way out and then sideways into a slot.

Got a 90 deg nozzle with it; the type which has a cut out and nylon bushing sort of thing inside and you push it straight onto the zerk. Worked on my tractor, but every time I put it on the RT it not only didn't work but hung up and was diff to remove. Pulling hard to remove it merely caused the nylon insert to pull out.

Have since disgarded that device and am in the process of changing all the 6mm zerks to 90 deg type so that the common push on nozzle that I use on my tractor can be used. Zerks are readily avail at Tractor Supply, Napa, and auto stores. One thing I found with the new ones is that the ends are not tapered like the OEM ones and are diff to get started screwing in. Used a small belt sander to taper the end threads and that made it easy to get started. A trick I learned long ago to use on difficult bolts when I was gophering in a BMW shop.


Got 3 on one side done last evening, but the one on the top front is set down in the frame somewhat which prevents getting a wrench on the 90deg zerk to tighten. Trying diff gadgets and will eventually get it done one way or another. ha.

I'm going to use Valvoline brand grease, lithium base, red, $4.59 tube, and hopefully can get the joints flushed out well enough. Too little info on what is compatible and what isn't.

Edited to add: Finished this morn with the left side and it was the top rear zert that was so difficult to get in as it was under the air intake and other body panels. It was more luck than anything that I finally got it in. If you have large hands, forget it! Pay the $34.50 for a grease job at the dealer; thats what mine charges. Anyway, the other 3 were a piece of cake. The top joints seemed harder to get grease in for some reason but I'm satisified with the results.
 
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.....I'm going to use Valvoline brand grease, lithium base, red, $4.59 tube, and hopefully can get the joints flushed out well enough. Too little info on what is compatible and what isn't.
There is virtually no information on what types or brands of greases are compaitible. Only time and close observation will tell. Just flush real well, and follow up with a couple of shortened relubrication intervals and you should be OK. That is the way the oil company reps told us to do it when I was in charge of maintenance for 500 machines in a wastewater plant, and it worked there.
 
Okay---Changing oil is a bit of a problem (but not impossible).However "how the "H" do you get at the top two inside grease nipples?Is there such a thing as a short 90 degree grease gun nipple.I am open to all help.
THanks

Have you tried jacking up the front end till the front tires are off the ground? This should rotate the grease nipples so you get the grease gun on them.

Mike
 
On my 09 RS I found that I had to take off the plastic (Black cover) on each side that block you from attaching the fitting on the top 2 back fittings. 2 10mm bolts on each bottom and a 10mm near the top as I remember? Careful one side has a U hook around the hose? Next time I,m going to Cut the plastic area right above the nipple before I reassemble.nojoke
 
Although the top fittings aren't the easiest to get to, they are much easier than a few I have to grease on my Deere tractor. The adapter I use for those hard to get at zerks is a Lincoln 5859 90 degree angle adapter that fits in the end of the gun hose. Works great on the Spyder. :thumbup:
 
Success with the Lincoln Lubrication slotted right angle coupling!

I had ordered the Lincoln Lubrication slotted right angle coupling (LIN5883) and it arrived Saturday.
Using it, I was able to successfully grease the upper rear fittings. :yes:

It takes moderate force to push the coupling onto the grease fitting, but once on securely, it did not leak any grease.

I have several slender hoses coupled together so I don't have to hold the weight of the grease gun.
 

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We sometimes have to use a high pressure needle fitting instead of the standard fitting to clean out a standard zerk. It works great and still lubes, just another option.
 
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