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GPS & DPS Error ?

MtlBen

New member
Hi, Everyone:

I just installed a Garmin Zumo 350 on my 2011 RT, and during my first long ride (150 miles) after the install, I had the DPS error for the first time ever, about 110 miles into the ride. I have 2,600 miles on the odometer.

When it happenned, I stopped for about 5 minutes with the key in the OFF position, and the error message did not reappear and I was able to do the 40 miles ride back home.

I had connected the Garmin power module to the fuel gauge as recommended by other trusted forum users:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...GPS-Power-Source-Question&p=493774#post493774


Coincidence, or known issue ?
Anyone else had this happened after adding load to the fuel gauge ?

The only thing that bugs me a bit is that using the fuel gauge wiring, the power is clean and is coming from the battery via a relay, but the ground return is via the instrument cluster. If it happens again I will try to run a temporary ground line straight to the battery ground.

Any thoughts or similar experience ?

...Ben...
 
I hooked my Garmin 550 GPS and XM Sat Radio Antenna directly to the fuse box with a chassis ground, no problems or issues. This way the GPS can be turned on with the bike off for trip planning etc.
 
I hooked my Garmin 550 GPS and XM Sat Radio Antenna directly to the fuse box with a chassis ground, no problems or issues. This way the GPS can be turned on with the bike off for trip planning etc.

On my side, I wanted the GPS to be turned off with the key to avoid potential Spyder battery drain while the Garmin power module tries to keep the Zumo battery charged. I also found convenient for the GPS to turn off by itself when I get into the garage and turn off the Spyder.

If I want to use the GPS with the SPyder off, it will run fine on its own battery for approx 3 hours.


...Benoit...
 
After looking at the electrical schematics, I am wondering if the digital gauges will appear and have both analog and digital active at the same time if we disconnect the analog gauge ground from the cluster and route it directly to the battery...

The ground connection to the cluster seems to be the only way for the cluster to know if the analog gauges are connected or not...

Anyone tried that before ?

...Ben...
 
Hi, Everyone:

I just installed a Garmin Zumo 350 on my 2011 RT, and during my first long ride (150 miles) after the install, I had the DPS error for the first time ever, about 110 miles into the ride. I have 2,600 miles on the odometer.

When it happenned, I stopped for about 5 minutes with the key in the OFF position, and the error message did not reappear and I was able to do the 40 miles ride back home.

I had connected the Garmin power module to the fuel gauge as recommended by other trusted forum users:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...GPS-Power-Source-Question&p=493774#post493774


Coincidence, or known issue ?
Anyone else had this happened after adding load to the fuel gauge ?

The only thing that bugs me a bit is that using the fuel gauge wiring, the power is clean and is coming from the battery via a relay, but the ground return is via the instrument cluster. If it happens again I will try to run a temporary ground line straight to the battery ground.

Any thoughts or similar experience ?

...Ben...
I suspect it was coincidence. There are several possibilities for your DPS error. First would be loose battery terminals. Low voltage is most eveident when the DPS is working, it is the biggest current draw on a Spyder except when starting. Second would be steering into a constant wind or on a long, sweeping curve. That can cause a steering sensor mismatch, and trigger a warning and/or limp mode. Third would be steering sensors in need of recalibration. Combined with #2, this can be more of an issue. Fourth could be loose relays. This is not common with the RT. Finally, you could be riding the brake pedal without applying the brakes. It usually results in more errors than that, but the DPS fault is often the first you see. This can also cause limp mode. Your dealer can verify this by checking the occurred codes in BUDS.

After looking at the electrical schematics, I am wondering if the digital gauges will appear and have both analog and digital active at the same time if we disconnect the analog gauge ground from the cluster and route it directly to the battery...

The ground connection to the cluster seems to be the only way for the cluster to know if the analog gauges are connected or not...

Anyone tried that before ?

...Ben...
I don't think that will do it, but I don't know if anyone ever tried.
 
I suspect it was coincidence. There are several possibilities for your DPS error. First would be loose battery terminals. Low voltage is most eveident when the DPS is working, it is the biggest current draw on a Spyder except when starting. Second would be steering into a constant wind or on a long, sweeping curve. That can cause a steering sensor mismatch, and trigger a warning and/or limp mode. Third would be steering sensors in need of recalibration. Combined with #2, this can be more of an issue. Fourth could be loose relays. This is not common with the RT. Finally, you could be riding the brake pedal without applying the brakes. It usually results in more errors than that, but the DPS fault is often the first you see. This can also cause limp mode. Your dealer can verify this by checking the occurred codes in BUDS.

It happenned on the highway with the cruise control ON, so it could not be the brake pedal. It did happen in a high speed highway curve and caused the warning and limp mode, so your second theory fits the conditions.


...Ben...
 
I'd check the battery connections (under the body, not under the seat) first, then I'd have the dealer zero the steering sensors.
 
Does this ever sound like a rainy-day project or what?? :shocked: :thumbup:
Go for it! We've got your back... (and a fire extinguisher!)
 
I suspect it was coincidence. There are several possibilities for your DPS error. First would be loose battery terminals. Low voltage is most eveident when the DPS is working, it is the biggest current draw on a Spyder except when starting. Second would be steering into a constant wind or on a long, sweeping curve. That can cause a steering sensor mismatch, and trigger a warning and/or limp mode. Third would be steering sensors in need of recalibration. Combined with #2, this can be more of an issue. Fourth could be loose relays. This is not common with the RT. Finally, you could be riding the brake pedal without applying the brakes. It usually results in more errors than that, but the DPS fault is often the first you see. This can also cause limp mode. Your dealer can verify this by checking the occurred codes in BUDS.


I don't think that will do it, but I don't know if anyone ever tried.

:agree: I can vouch for the brake pedal issue... actually, it was a bad brake light sensor switch. I was getting repeat "brake failure" warnings. It happened again when my brake linkage was out of adjustment, and the brake light switch did not activate after releasing the brake pedal. The Spyder thought I was applying the brakes and accelerating at the same time. BAM... limp mode with the DPS warning light.:gaah:
 
:agree: I can vouch for the brake pedal issue... actually, it was a bad brake light sensor switch. I was getting repeat "brake failure" warnings. It happened again when my brake linkage was out of adjustment, and the brake light switch did not activate after releasing the brake pedal. The Spyder thought I was applying the brakes and accelerating at the same time. BAM... limp mode with the DPS warning light.:gaah:

I was on cruise control, so it cannot be the brake pedal.

It turns out it was a coincidence: it has not happenned since that one time.

...Ben...
 
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