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Got my new tires
- Thread starter ARNIE R
- Start date
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
NEW TIRES
If you keep the Kumho tire at 17 -18 psi you get a better ride and it will work better in the wet ......... Mike :thumbup:
If you are doing a lot of long hot miles, you might want to run the Kumho on the rear maybe a pound or two higher (max 20 psi) so that it doesn't balloon when it gets hot & give you the same wear pattern as that we see on the Kendas, but if you aren't running in 85F plus ambient temps all the time, then as Mike says, you will probably get the best traction, ride, handling, and braking from 18ish psi back there - you can use the 4psi rule to check that you are close to optimal pressure, or check for even temp increases across the face of the tire tread. Hot strips of tread indicate incorrect pressures - hotter strips on both the edges = pressures too low; hot strips on one edge indicates an alignment issue; a hot band down the middle indicates pressures that are too high!
When we aren't running in 35-45C plus ambient temps thru summer or I'm not ryding 1000km each day, I run 16-18 psi in my 225/60R15 Kumho Ecsta on the rear & I am expectibg to get 30,000 km plus milage of virtually unparalleled all seasons traction & handling as well as longevity - traction & handling that's likely only going to be exceeded in the dry by a dry weather performance tire like the Yoko's that others recommend. What those may gain in traction over the Kumhos at the right pressure they tend to lose in tread longevity, & I can live with the marginally less traction the Kumhos provide for the substantially greater tire life they return - but then we also can't get many of the Federals & Michelins etc in sizes that fit that you all get over there! :thumbup:
Oh, & the Kumhos excel at those lower pressures in the wet!! My skid pan braking tests showed about 1/3rd BETTER braking distances in the wet from the Kumhos at that pressure than we got from them at the same pressure in the dry!! Dropping another pound or two made the handling a bit doughy & steering a bit loose, but improved traction and braking distances (especially on the wet) even more! Adding a couple of pounds over 22psi & the wet braking distances went out by something over 1/2 again extra distance, and virtually guaranteed understeer & hydro-planing on barely wet roads!! It's a juggling act, but the more you put in to getting things right, the better your tires will look after you! :2thumbs:
Bam Bam and Pebbles
New member
I have the exact same tires on Cocaine, and you should see a noticeable improvement in your handling on turns, and because of this, your speed in the twisties will be much faster. I run the rear at 20lbs and the fronts at 18-19lbs. Works for me.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
blacklightning
Well-known member
I was wondering the same thing. Gonna see how fast those new tires will be making you
.
Bam Bam and Pebbles
New member
Well gee, thanks guys. It depends on the weather. Not sure but I would like to get up there. If I do I will be looking for both of you. Where you guys staying?
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
THE CABIN
I'm sharing a Cabin with Buckeye Bleau from Ohio ... Stonebridge RV & campgrounds ....about 1/2 mile east of the Fair Grounds ....... But you can find me at the Fairgrounds ...I'm a Vendor this year ...:2excited:........Mike :thumbup:
^^ If they aren't up to speed on Spyders, it's probably best if you pull the hub & pulley & the rubber blocks (if you can!) But make surdd you take pics or mark things so you know how it goes back together properly! :thumbup:
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
TO PULL OR NOT TO PULL
I HAVEN'T done one without removing the HUB .... But NOW they make the HUB NON-REMOVABLE .... and the machines to remove still work .... folks here have done it .... Mike :thumbup:
Boy, I am frosted!
I took my new tires and old ones in to the dealership today and was asked "are these car tires?"
Yes, I said. Then tried to explain the better properties and characteristics of the "car" tires and how well they are liked and how the Kenda's are despised worse than a used car salesman.
No deal, liability issues with their "contract" with BRP, etc. Even after the service manager said they would do it.
I tried a few car tire places and they wouldn't touch them.
Finally went to a local car repair service that I had used for service on my Ford truck and the guy measures something on the rims and says they can do it, so, I am crossing my fingers and hoping that they can successfully complete this task without trashing the rims.
On a side note, removing the rear tire did not happen to be as difficult as I had thought it might be.
I took my new tires and old ones in to the dealership today and was asked "are these car tires?"
Yes, I said. Then tried to explain the better properties and characteristics of the "car" tires and how well they are liked and how the Kenda's are despised worse than a used car salesman.
No deal, liability issues with their "contract" with BRP, etc. Even after the service manager said they would do it.
I tried a few car tire places and they wouldn't touch them.
Finally went to a local car repair service that I had used for service on my Ford truck and the guy measures something on the rims and says they can do it, so, I am crossing my fingers and hoping that they can successfully complete this task without trashing the rims.
On a side note, removing the rear tire did not happen to be as difficult as I had thought it might be.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
If you are doing a lot of long hot miles, you might want to run the Kumho on the rear maybe a pound or two higher (max 20 psi) so that it doesn't balloon when it gets hot & give you the same wear pattern as that we see on the Kendas, but if you aren't running in 85F plus ambient temps all the time, then as Mike says, you will probably get the best traction, ride, handling, and braking from 18ish psi back there - you can use the 4psi rule to check that you are close to optimal pressure, or check for even temp increases across the face of the tire tread. Hot strips of tread indicate incorrect pressures - hotter strips on both the edges = pressures too low; hot strips on one edge indicates an alignment issue; a hot band down the middle indicates pressures that are too high!
When we aren't running in 35-45C plus ambient temps thru summer or I'm not ryding 1000km each day, I run 16-18 psi in my 225/60R15 Kumho Ecsta on the rear & I am expectibg to get 30,000 km plus milage of virtually unparalleled all seasons traction & handling as well as longevity - traction & handling that's likely only going to be exceeded in the dry by a dry weather performance tire like the Yoko's that others recommend. What those may gain in traction over the Kumhos at the right pressure they tend to lose in tread longevity, & I can live with the marginally less traction the Kumhos provide for the substantially greater tire life they return - but then we also can't get many of the Federals & Michelins etc in sizes that fit that you all get over there! :thumbup:
Oh, & the Kumhos excel at those lower pressures in the wet!! My skid pan braking tests showed about 1/3rd BETTER braking distances in the wet from the Kumhos at that pressure than we got from them at the same pressure in the dry!! Dropping another pound or two made the handling a bit doughy & steering a bit loose, but improved traction and braking distances (especially on the wet) even more! Adding a couple of pounds over 22psi & the wet braking distances went out by something over 1/2 again extra distance, and virtually guaranteed understeer & hydro-planing on barely wet roads!! It's a juggling act, but the more you put in to getting things right, the better your tires will look after you! :2thumbs:
Peter: Have you ever used Dina Beads to balance your rear tire? Neil
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
A common issue for those using non-OEM. You have to look around to get someone to do it for you. I have a dealer who thinks exactly the same as above. Being un-mechanical and lazy--I let the dealer put OEM's on. Over 5 different Spyders, I get 20K plus on the fronts and about 15K on the rears. One exception--soft rubber compound on my 2014--got 8,900 on the rear one.
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Not on a Spyder Neil, never needed to! :sour:
HankD
New member
Yeah, I'm probably going to go OEM Kenda's when my tire-change time comes. I don't feel like spending a lot of time sniffing out a dealer/shop that will service my need for non-OEM tires, and me ending up having to do a lot of the work myself and lying about what the rims/tires are going to be used on.
It seems that I recall that someone on the Forum had a conversation with a BRP Rep at some event, and the Rep said there was NO contract obligation between BRP and Dealers to use OEM tires. It seems that someone ain't telling the truth....either the Rep or the Dealers.
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
I don't remember the above conversation--so can't help there either. Anyone know for sure?
opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:The drama continues,,,,
Today, I went to the repair shop to check on my tires. Both fronts were outside heating up in the sun as the outside beads had still not seated all the way around. I told the tech that based upon what I had read, he might have to pressure them up to about 80 plus PSI, sure enough, about at 85, bang, they seated all the way around.
The rear tire, surprisingly, went on far more easily. Tech just pulled the sprocket off and had no issues with it going on successfully.
So, I cart the tires off to the dealer to be balanced, since I didn't think the repair shop had the proper eqiupment to do an MC type wheel (did not bother asking, stupid me)
The Can-Am dealer takes a look, checks with the service guy who says no way will they touch them since they did not install them. More liability issues. O-kayyy.......
I call back the repair shop and inquire about balancing, which they say they can do only on the fronts because the rear needs to be stripped of all extra parts in order to be able (hopefully) on the balance machine. Back home I go and strip the back wheel clean. Back to the shop and drop it off.
Hopefully, all of this will be fixed tomorrow.............
Today, I went to the repair shop to check on my tires. Both fronts were outside heating up in the sun as the outside beads had still not seated all the way around. I told the tech that based upon what I had read, he might have to pressure them up to about 80 plus PSI, sure enough, about at 85, bang, they seated all the way around.
The rear tire, surprisingly, went on far more easily. Tech just pulled the sprocket off and had no issues with it going on successfully.
So, I cart the tires off to the dealer to be balanced, since I didn't think the repair shop had the proper eqiupment to do an MC type wheel (did not bother asking, stupid me)
The Can-Am dealer takes a look, checks with the service guy who says no way will they touch them since they did not install them. More liability issues. O-kayyy.......
I call back the repair shop and inquire about balancing, which they say they can do only on the fronts because the rear needs to be stripped of all extra parts in order to be able (hopefully) on the balance machine. Back home I go and strip the back wheel clean. Back to the shop and drop it off.
Hopefully, all of this will be fixed tomorrow.............
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