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There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Got it! Front white sprocket from CheapCycle Parts is here!
- Thread starter Plarimer
- Start date
SpyderF3-s
New member
I got my white sprocket yesterday. It might stop the howling/whistling but I HIGHLY doubt it will fix the sprocket wear issue. I’ll be able to tell in another 20000 miles!(that’s been my average wear time. I’m on my 5th sprocket)
A quick 'straw poll' here amongst the locals Down Under suggests that amongst the SE Ryders, there's more who've let their Spyders downshift 'automatically' who have had front sprocket failures than those who usually manually initiate their down shifts....
But there's all sorts of possible reasons that more of them may have replied than any others; altho I really doubt there's anyvalidity in the supposition that whichever way you might choose to downshift has any real impact on the spline fretting issues! :lecturef_smilie: After all, despite there being significantly more SE's than SM's out there, this front sprocket/spline fretting thing is something that's happening to both manuals & semi-autos, and the SE computers won't even LET a downshift occur if it's going to overly stress the gearbox/driveline.... Plus, I have it on good authority that the 'auto-downshift' feature on the SE's was originally designed & intended as a 'Fail-safe intervention of last resort' in case the ryder/operator stuffed up &/or was too lazy to initiate the downshift themselves at a more appropriate time to match revs & maintain full control of the bike! You should remember that it IS still a manual gearbox, only with some computer controlled shift operations - there's no torque converter in there! Besides the oil pressure engaged/computer controlled clutch operation that matches revs & enables shifts to occur at all, it's all just like the manual gearboxes on the inside; so if the computer can manage those auto-downshifts at the 'intervention is now necessary to avoid damage point', then they can certainly handle manually down-shifting as designed/intended via the ryder/operator's manual initiation of said down-shift with the flappy paddles a little earlier - and the SE's transmission/gear change computer WON'T LET YOU DOWNSHIFT AT ALL if it's likely to overly stress the driveline &/or front sprocket.
Cheers :cheers:
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