Freddy
Active member
:bdh:
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Got a flat on the trailer because of a bad bearing
- Thread starter Lamonster
- Start date
A
arntufun
Guest
Do you have any idea how many miles are on your trailer ???
TicketBait
RT-S PE#0412
Good thread, read every post. It's good Lamont that you didn't let the circumstance get the best of you. I figure I have approx 7-8 miles on my trailer now. When I take the bike in for service is that when they should grease the bearings?
My dealership said they called Ride-On and were told that it is not recommended for that small of a tire.
:dontknow:
I do carry a spare.
This is good to know you were able to stop the bike and trailer safely!
Also since you replaced the one tire, is it necessary to replace the other side, since it looked like you had allot of wear on them ?
My dealership said they called Ride-On and were told that it is not recommended for that small of a tire.
:dontknow:
I do carry a spare.
This is good to know you were able to stop the bike and trailer safely!
Also since you replaced the one tire, is it necessary to replace the other side, since it looked like you had allot of wear on them ?
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
Ride-On has a filling volume listed for that tire. Not sure why they would verbally recommend against it. Anyway, I have not had any issues or excessive heat in 3,500 miles. I'll continue to run it.
SpyderFun
New member
Axle Damage?
You can see the "Flat Spot" on the tire. This is when the bearing physically seized and caused the blowout. Suffice it to say that avoiding any trailer damage is in-itself reason to celebrate!
Lamont, was there any axle damage (ie signs of over heating or scoring on the face of the race)?
You can see the "Flat Spot" on the tire. This is when the bearing physically seized and caused the blowout. Suffice it to say that avoiding any trailer damage is in-itself reason to celebrate!
Lamont, was there any axle damage (ie signs of over heating or scoring on the face of the race)?
Lamonster
SpyderLovers Founder
The race had to be cut off but there was no damage to the axle. Looks to me like the rear seal had let some moisture in and that's what helped speed the process of the bearing failure. I did look into new hub setups and I can get a triple lip seal hub with grease zerk for about 40 bucks each and that may be the route I take.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200466886_200466886
SpyderFun
New member
Moisture in a confined heated area = steam and it has to get released somehow & usually does with ugly results. Glad to hear no damage to your axle (more reason to celebrate).
Just a FYI for those thinking of getting this kind of a setup and have never used it. The proper technique to "repack" the bearing is to keep pumping grease in until you see old grease coming out (purging of old grease) and keep pumping until you see fresh grease. I had a neighbor who thought just giving it "a few pumps of grease" was enough for his boat trailer. He quickly discovered he needed new bearings & races (4-axles) because they had corrosion due to not getting the moisture completely out.
MouthPiece
Banged Up Member
I've debated whether to ask or not, but decided to go ahead and ask. I apologize in that it is a bit "off point", but similar. I think I recall Lamont with a video showing how to take the back wheel off. Additionally, I think I recall him saying that THAT was probably a good time to change the bearings on the rear wheel.
My question is IS there a rule of thumb for when one should change the bearings on the back wheel? Any input would be appreciated.
Chris
My question is IS there a rule of thumb for when one should change the bearings on the back wheel? Any input would be appreciated.
Chris
Lamonster
SpyderLovers Founder
I check them at every tire change but there's no reason to change them if they are still good.
SpyderFun
New member
Mike's Personal Rule is, 1st completely clean and remove all of the old grease from the bearing assy. Then see how much radial and axial ply there is compared to a new bearing assy. (or you can actually measure this wear using a dial indicator). Finally, see what the manufacture recommends as "maximum wear" (ie play) for replacement of assy. You should get several thousands of miles before this is actually required, if preventative/scheduled maintenance is observed.
It is ALWAYS cheaper to replace a bearing assy versus having an accident caused by bearing failure.
Hope this helps.
Lamonster
SpyderLovers Founder
The bearings on the real wheel are sealed so there is no grease to remove or there shouldn't be.
SpyderFun
New member
The bearings on the real wheel are sealed so there is no grease to remove or there shouldn't be.
Sorry I got brain locked on the trailer bearings! My Bad.....:roflblack:
BajaRon
Well-known member
That one is going to require a bit more than the recommended amount of Ride-On! :yikes:
And a spare would have gotten you what.... Another 100 yards?
Where was your riding buddy? He could have told you there was something up with your trailer before it went bad.... :dontknow:
BajaRon
Well-known member
With all this work you're doing for BRP, you should be an employee Doc! You could head up their 'Antagonist' department!
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