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FYI-Shell Rotella synthetic

Rotella is all good with me....

Well..... Here comes the twist in the road, hang on as this can turn in to a nice long thread.

I have been using Rotella exclusively since 600 miles. I change the oil myself and do it every 3k miles. I have over 25k miles on the Spyder and have had zero issues with my clutch. Part of my commute is NYC traffic, so yes I do spend some time in the friction zone.

As far as the white vs blue debate, here is a pic of the one I use and I buy it at WalMart.


Shell-RotellaSynthetic5W40.jpg
 
dPlease corect me if I am off my rocker.

It is my understanding that Synthetic comes in two formulas.
1. Blend .... which is mix of Synthetic and reg Oil.
2. Pure Synthetic... all synthetic.

The spec's I have read for the spyder only speak of Synthetic and no mention of blend.

I am ready now for the chop shop....
You are correct.

Well..... Here comes the twist in the road, hang on as this can turn in to a nice long thread.

I have been using Rotella exclusively since 600 miles. I change the oil myself and do it every 3k miles. I have over 25k miles on the Spyder and have had zero issues with my clutch. Part of my commute is NYC traffic, so yes I do spend some time in the friction zone.

As far as the white vs blue debate, here is a pic of the one I use and I buy it at WalMart.


Shell-RotellaSynthetic5W40.jpg
Can't try this myself, as our Wally Worlds around here only seem to have the white bottled variety (with blue label).
-Scotty
 
I run the 5-40 full synthetic in my VW turbo diesel, It is the only (besides AMSoil) that is recommended and the critical element is the lubrication of the turbocharger. (lots of heat and wear there.. ) Makes me nervous to think it could cause issues in the spydee...
 
I just read my post again and I guess it's time for a update.

25K on this clutch and no slippage at all. I can roll on it as hard as I like with the trailer. Right now I'm running Lucas motorcycle oil.

As bad as my clutch was on my trip I seemed to have saved it by not grazing it up too bad and changing the oil a few times since then.

If Rotella is working good for you then by all means keep using it. I won't be on my Spyder because I ride a little harder than most with a much heavier load than most. I think that oil puts be just over the edge. :sour:
 
Rotella Synthetic has CHANGED.

I'm a total newbie here. Bought my wife a Spyder SE last Saturday, and I'm just reading everything I can find. You have a great forum here, I have learned much.
Rotella T Synthetic. I've been running it fine in my Honda Valkyrie for years. I thought I could use it forever, but I CAN'T. Since my last gallon was purchased last fall, they have changed the formula. Now my trusty WalMart gallon of Rotella T is API SM. My last bottle was SL. From what I read here and on the other sites, SM is not acceptable for the Spyder. So long, Rotella T, So long, extra money. Hello Amsoil. (unless I can find some old stock out there, then I'm buying it up.)

Look forward to getting to know you all. I've seen Lamonster before, on another forum. Don't know which one. (Valk, Shadow, Silverwing are possibilities.)
 
Welcome to SpyderLovers redbarber and congrats to your wife on the Spyder purchase. Good luck on your oil search.
 
Look forward to getting to know you all. I've seen Lamonster before, on another forum. Don't know which one. (Valk, Shadow, Silverwing are possibilities.)

welcome
Ever heard of the VRCC? I'm member #0001 :doorag:

If not you may have heard of the SuperCharger I devolped with MagnaCharger for the Valk, or maybe the Lamonster Trigger Wheel or Lamonster risers. :dontknow:

Anyway, like the Valk the Spyder is a great ride and I'm sure you're going to love it. :thumbup:

By the way I have a case of Amsoil showing up today. :spyder2:

picture.php
 
This has nothing to do with Rotella, but with oil. After reading some and talking some I changed my oil Wednesday and put in Royal Purple Synthetic Motorcycle Oil, 10W40. It is not SM rated, and the 10W40 is better for our desert climate and 3-digit ambient temperatures for months on end. Rode it for the first time today, 150 miles, and noticed a very positive shifting improvement on the SE5. When downshifting automatically it was smoother than it's ever been, and I have had the "fix" done on it. The auto shift from 2nd to 1st was so smooth I had to check to be sure it had shifted. We had to do several stops (red lights) around town and the Spyder never tried to crawl at the stops as it's had a tendency to do. My wife even noticed the difference and commented on it.
 
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Drum Oil

Just picked up my :spyder2: from the dealer. Got the first 600 mile service. I noticed on the invoice that they used Drum Oil for the oil change- 10W40. I asked the service manager about this and he said that is what they used on all their BRP products-they sell sea doos and ATVs. Said they checked BRP about the spyder and was told it was fine to use. I said I never heard of that and I thought the manual was very specific on the oil being used. Asked about the warranty and he said no problem as far as being covered by warranty using this oil

Needless to say, I am a little nervous:yikes::yikes:
 
Just picked up my :spyder2: from the dealer. Got the first 600 mile service. I noticed on the invoice that they used Drum Oil for the oil change- 10W40. I asked the service manager about this and he said that is what they used on all their BRP products-they sell sea doos and ATVs. Said they checked BRP about the spyder and was told it was fine to use. I said I never heard of that and I thought the manual was very specific on the oil being used. Asked about the warranty and he said no problem as far as being covered by warranty using this oil

Needless to say, I am a little nervous:yikes::yikes:

Makes you wonder, don't it?
 
Just picked up my :spyder2: from the dealer. Got the first 600 mile service. I noticed on the invoice that they used Drum Oil for the oil change- 10W40. I asked the service manager about this and he said that is what they used on all their BRP products-they sell sea doos and ATVs. Said they checked BRP about the spyder and was told it was fine to use. I said I never heard of that and I thought the manual was very specific on the oil being used. Asked about the warranty and he said no problem as far as being covered by warranty using this oil

Needless to say, I am a little nervous:yikes::yikes:


Basically the same process at our dealer. They use Spectro Blue (55 gallon drum) in most of their oil changes unless the customer requests something else. I know that they are filling Spyders with 10W40 also as Spectro doesn't make a 5W30. They are knocking a few bucks off the invoice too as Spectro Blue is cheaper than BRP oil. dltang has over 13,000 miles on her Spyder now with all the oil changes with 10W40 and has had no engine / tranny issues. I've changed my own oil with either Amsoil or Spectro Gold oil every time (11,600 miles) and I've used either brand's 10W40 (except for last winter's oil change with Amsoil 0W40). I also have had no engine / tranny issues so far.
 
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I think an owner is much safer if it is the dealer instead of the owner that substitutes non-spec oil. The dealer would be the one submitting any warranty claim, anyway, so they would hardly "tattle" on themselves to BRP. It would leave them open to a lawsuit from the disgruntled owner, anyway. As to the owner doing it themselves, it is riskier. I certainly wouldn't anticipate a blown engine, which a dealer might balk at replacing if you didn't use the right oil, but it is still a possibility that owners must be aware of. Once you know, assess the risk, and make your own choice. I personally think 10W-40 is a better choice of viscosities, BTW, especially in a slippery synthetic.
-Scotty
 
Indy Cycle, right?

john

Yes. Right now I don't have the greatest confidence in them. Nice people, but not sure they are keeping up with the spyder. Didn't know anything about the accessories coming or the brake noise issues. Things like that just don't inspire alot of confidence. Course they don't spend time everyday on the forums like we do.

Have you had dealings with them? Buy your spyder there?
 
Two words. Royal Purple
This is the sh**. I believe in it so much I became a dealer .
I'll have it up on my website pretty soon.

Bob
PowerSports4Less
 
Yes. Right now I don't have the greatest confidence in them. Nice people, but not sure they are keeping up with the spyder. Didn't know anything about the accessories coming or the brake noise issues. Things like that just don't inspire alot of confidence. Course they don't spend time everyday on the forums like we do.

Have you had dealings with them? Buy your spyder there?
Bought my Spyder in MI, no dealers in IN then, Indy did my 600 mile change, seemed like decent people. For the 3000 mile, they wanted over $300.00, told me about a charge for having to hook to a computer, and some other things, I change my own now, get my parts and heavy service from Greenfield. There's more, but why bother, I won't go there anymore.

john
 
I think an owner is much safer if it is the dealer instead of the owner that substitutes non-spec oil. The dealer would be the one submitting any warranty claim, anyway, so they would hardly "tattle" on themselves to BRP. It would leave them open to a lawsuit from the disgruntled owner, anyway. As to the owner doing it themselves, it is riskier. I certainly wouldn't anticipate a blown engine, which a dealer might balk at replacing if you didn't use the right oil, but it is still a possibility that owners must be aware of. Once you know, assess the risk, and make your own choice. I personally think 10W-40 is a better choice of viscosities, BTW, especially in a slippery synthetic.
-Scotty

Scotty

It's difficult to argue with personal anecdotes from folks who say "I used brand x oil, now my Spyder is all kerflooey" but on page 563 of the shop manual, it lists

"5W40 BRP synthetic oil or equivalent motorcycle oil"

so what should our concern be about non-spec oil?

I don't want this to turn into the great Gas Mileage War posts of the summer of '07, but I'm slow in following what's the issue, unless it's that the shop manual itself is too vague...?

Or, should we all be sending a 3000 mile and a 6000 mile sample into Blackstone for an oil analysis?? Then at least we'd have data...???
 
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