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Fuzeblock FZ-1 install on 2019 RTL
- Thread starter Snakeyes
- Start date
Chasinsparks
Member
Im in the same situation with a 2016 RTL. I'm thinking in the compartment where the horn since it is just a pull panel if I need to get to it. My main concern is where to tap into the switched wire.
Bfromla
Well-known member
:dontknow: maybe helpful
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...to-me-2013-Spyder-ST-SE5&highlight=Fuse+block
There was a pic at one time , can’t seem to find now:banghead:
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...to-me-2013-Spyder-ST-SE5&highlight=Fuse+block
There was a pic at one time , can’t seem to find now:banghead:
SpyderConvert
Member
I purchased and had installed a fuse block made by Eastern Beaver. The service manager at Motosports in Hanover, PA, placed it inside the frunk liner on the left side of my RTL. It has 6 switched and 2 unswitched outputs. His only comment was: "If you hook anything up to the block, be sure to use connectors. If I have to remove the frunk, I will cut the wires."
RICZ
New member
This is the one I installed on my F3L.....
https://www.banggood.com/DC12V24V32...-p-1139465.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN
https://www.banggood.com/DC12V24V32...-p-1139465.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN
INfox
New member
I used MeudtPG idea to install mine - with a help.
I didn't want it to be mounted on the battery cover, although that is a very good spot too.
Mine is glued with and original JB Weld (was tested the best glue to resist vibration by ProjectFarm) to sanded trunk's wall with 100% silicone filled void behind the curved wall for additional support. I can attach the FZ-1 in two different rotations this way. No messing with the wires if I will need to access the battery and the fusebox is more inwards between the Left and Right Spyder’s fuseboxes.
Right now I have only one wire connected to it, so I chose to have it upside down, but the wires are long enough for the FZ-1 to be flipped. I might possibly screw the mount plate to the cut gray electrical plate for better security if needed, therefore the gap in the center (which is too big on the bike’s wall, oh well).
My Switched source (inside of gray split loom) comes from a hidden zipped optional plug. I fed this plug through the grommet hole together with new wires inside of an orange split loom. I have a male quick connect on the end of the switched wire from the fusebox to the optional plug. We took off the frunk to pull the hidden optional plug out though as we couldn’t find the wires, which are zip-tied.
I didn't want it to be mounted on the battery cover, although that is a very good spot too.
Mine is glued with and original JB Weld (was tested the best glue to resist vibration by ProjectFarm) to sanded trunk's wall with 100% silicone filled void behind the curved wall for additional support. I can attach the FZ-1 in two different rotations this way. No messing with the wires if I will need to access the battery and the fusebox is more inwards between the Left and Right Spyder’s fuseboxes.
Right now I have only one wire connected to it, so I chose to have it upside down, but the wires are long enough for the FZ-1 to be flipped. I might possibly screw the mount plate to the cut gray electrical plate for better security if needed, therefore the gap in the center (which is too big on the bike’s wall, oh well).
My Switched source (inside of gray split loom) comes from a hidden zipped optional plug. I fed this plug through the grommet hole together with new wires inside of an orange split loom. I have a male quick connect on the end of the switched wire from the fusebox to the optional plug. We took off the frunk to pull the hidden optional plug out though as we couldn’t find the wires, which are zip-tied.
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