Waynebang i
New member
My frunk will not open using the switch on the dash. I looked in the manual to see if there was a fuse in the panel but could not find one. Does anyone know if it has a fuse?
-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Frunk switch
- Thread starter Waynebang i
- Start date
Grandpot
Active member
I have a 2011 RTS with an electric frunk release. I found out that if the switch inside the frunk is not adjusted correct, the switch on the panel will not open the frunk. The switch inside the frunk is located near the frunk latch directly below the windshield and slightly to the right.
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
There were frunk release switches on the older model RT's. My 2011 is so equipped.
Gone by 2014. But...I can repeat my rant again. I would rather have an electric frunk release than the ECO mode. :roflblack::roflblack:
PS. It is an adjustment thing if it does not work. In most situations. :yes:
Gone by 2014. But...I can repeat my rant again. I would rather have an electric frunk release than the ECO mode. :roflblack::roflblack:
PS. It is an adjustment thing if it does not work. In most situations. :yes:
Arion
Active member
Agreed! Silly Eco mode button. I didn't buy my Spyder for economy, I bought it for fun -and it's paid off in spades. If I had wanted Eco I would have bought a Vespa or some other little tiddler machine.
oldguyinTX
New member
Open the frunk with your key. Turn on the ignition - no need to start the engine. Once the computer boots up, press the frunk switch. If it is working, you will hear the solenoid click. If you hear nothing, most likely a bad switch. Mine has been replaced twice under warranty. If your frunk has the light in it, you can check the micro switch by pressing it gently with your finger. If it clicks and the light goes out, it's definitely the dash switch. If the light does not go out, the problem is the microswitch.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
Not quite. If the frunk lid is open the solenoid doesn't operate. The microswitch is like a three way switch. It's in the ground side of both the solenoid and the frunk light. Depending on which position it's in determines if the solenoid or the light is grounded and works.
The lever on the microswitch gets bent easily and the tab on the frunk lid misses it. Make sure it's being pressed down by the lid.
oldguyinTX
New member
You are correct. Thanks for jogging my memory. I forgot that I had to depress the microswitch and then press the frunk release button to check it. Then you will or will not hear the solenoid. Another thing: The last time my RT was at the dealer, they pulled the nose off, and when I got it back, the frunk switch did not work, and the key release was very difficult to operate. I bent up the microswitch lever a bit, and then had to realign the frunk lid. After that, all was fine.
Last edited:
hobbykim
New member
The switch won't last long, I have my install just over a year and stop working, I did remove and open the switch and I found internal a switch contact burn, it cost over $60 , I just clean the contact and it work again, the hard art is you have to remove the switch to do the job, may just replace the new switch .
It's helpful to check the micro-switch & frunk lid alignment etc, but don't necessarily dream that the ONLY issues these things have will be down at the catch end!! As others are beginning to suggest (see hobbykim's post above!) the DASH SWITCH may be the problem. The dash switch for the frunk on my 2013 RT Ltd failed - twice!! Both times within the first 12 months after buying the Spyder new! :shocked:
Yes, we tested everything else and it is DEFINITELY the dash switch that does the failing.... On my Spyder, this switch operates the Park Brake (which still works) when pressed one way, & it triggers the Frunk Opening Solenoid when pressed the other way; but despite there being power to the Frunk opening solenoid, NOTHING gets thru that side of the switch when it is activated.... well, at least nothing gets thru 99 out of 100 times anyway, altho it still does work once every now & again (& I'm not kidding about having to activate the switch, with a pause between activations, at least 99/100 times to get just one successful opening!! I've counted these failed activation attempts in front of witnesses more than once! Even got other people to try with the same results, so it's not the way I'm holding my tongue!!) My entire 'Frunk Opening System' has been checked by a few different dealer techs & by a non-dealer Spyder Master Tech or whatever they call them, and both the Dealer & non-Dealer Master Techs are flummoxed by the problem; neither have been able to get the switch replaced under warranty despite this originally occurring within the warranty period & yet both agree that it's DEFINITELY the switch not working properly, altho both have absobloodylutely NFI why the switch would work once in a blue moon but not at all otherwise; and neither can offer any explanation for the SECOND switch failing almost immediately too - we did get about 20 or so 'successful openings' before it too died; ie, just enough successful attempts for us to be lulled into a false sense of success & then for me to get the Spyder home again with its new & pretty expensive switch proudly in place & supposedly working, before it too failed in exactly the same manner!! :gaah:
So going by my experiences, I reckon that many more Spyders than most think will really have a dud switch problem rather than a micro-switch &/or misalignment problem.... altho maybe the micro-switch/misalignment might be contributing to an early activation switch failure??! Dunno? :dontknow: Buuut, after the second switch failure, the non- dealer tech here suggested trying an a/mkt switch to really confirm or deny the switch being the issue, and strangely enough, so far, that a/mkt switch has been quite successful! The OE switch with the Dud Frunk opening side still functions fine for the parking brake, but nowdays, a couple of slots in the dash over, I have an un-marked momentary action switch fitted which has successfully been my electronic 'Frunk opening' activation switch for about 2 years, with not one single issue from it in all that time! :thumbup:
Of course, YMMV, but I reckon the switch on the dash is worth checking out as the cause; & possibly even by-passing it entirely by installing an alternative switch elsewhere. Good Luck!
Yes, we tested everything else and it is DEFINITELY the dash switch that does the failing.... On my Spyder, this switch operates the Park Brake (which still works) when pressed one way, & it triggers the Frunk Opening Solenoid when pressed the other way; but despite there being power to the Frunk opening solenoid, NOTHING gets thru that side of the switch when it is activated.... well, at least nothing gets thru 99 out of 100 times anyway, altho it still does work once every now & again (& I'm not kidding about having to activate the switch, with a pause between activations, at least 99/100 times to get just one successful opening!! I've counted these failed activation attempts in front of witnesses more than once! Even got other people to try with the same results, so it's not the way I'm holding my tongue!!) My entire 'Frunk Opening System' has been checked by a few different dealer techs & by a non-dealer Spyder Master Tech or whatever they call them, and both the Dealer & non-Dealer Master Techs are flummoxed by the problem; neither have been able to get the switch replaced under warranty despite this originally occurring within the warranty period & yet both agree that it's DEFINITELY the switch not working properly, altho both have absobloodylutely NFI why the switch would work once in a blue moon but not at all otherwise; and neither can offer any explanation for the SECOND switch failing almost immediately too - we did get about 20 or so 'successful openings' before it too died; ie, just enough successful attempts for us to be lulled into a false sense of success & then for me to get the Spyder home again with its new & pretty expensive switch proudly in place & supposedly working, before it too failed in exactly the same manner!! :gaah:
So going by my experiences, I reckon that many more Spyders than most think will really have a dud switch problem rather than a micro-switch &/or misalignment problem.... altho maybe the micro-switch/misalignment might be contributing to an early activation switch failure??! Dunno? :dontknow: Buuut, after the second switch failure, the non- dealer tech here suggested trying an a/mkt switch to really confirm or deny the switch being the issue, and strangely enough, so far, that a/mkt switch has been quite successful! The OE switch with the Dud Frunk opening side still functions fine for the parking brake, but nowdays, a couple of slots in the dash over, I have an un-marked momentary action switch fitted which has successfully been my electronic 'Frunk opening' activation switch for about 2 years, with not one single issue from it in all that time! :thumbup:
Of course, YMMV, but I reckon the switch on the dash is worth checking out as the cause; & possibly even by-passing it entirely by installing an alternative switch elsewhere. Good Luck!
Last edited:
Similar threads
