Frunk and Seat Latches

[wmjkweber02]

The Rube Goldberg opening method by cable attached to the ignition key do not fill me with confidence. Are there after market products to replace the latching method that would be more normal. The frunk should probably have a lock, but that is not a real necessity. The back seat opening certainly does not need a lock.

 

[2dogs]

Little more info please. Which spyder and what year?

 

[SpyderAnn01]

You can remove the big pin under the seat and you won’t need to unlock it anymore

 

[RICZ]

I attached very thin sheathed cables to both latches and use them exclusively.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

You can remove the big pin under the seat and you won’t need to unlock it anymore

Yes you could ..... however that PIN locates and locks the seat pan into a fixed position and BRP did it that way for a very good reason ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I attached very thin sheathed cables to both latches and use them exclusively.

:agree: I did all my Spyders with hidden release cables years and years ago ..... others have followed and even posted pics of what they did .... I found some 1/16th or 3/32nd coated wire cable at Home Depot for .26 per foot ..... IMHO the ignition should have only one purpose .... Starting and stopping the engine ..... many here have discovered what a bad design BRP decided to use ..... good luck .... use the search box to find PICS ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Grandpot]

Mike is correct about the pin locating the seat. You can tie the seat latch open so the pin still does its location job. The frunk latch can also be tied open. The frunk will not fly open when you are riding. The downside is, you don't have any security.

 

[Shadow4]

Can anybody tell em how to open frunk mine will not open 2012 RT se5. The key will not open it or the button

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Can anybody tell em how to open frunk mine will not open 2012 RT se5. The key will not open it or the button

I have opened quite a few for others ..... I would look at a Fiche' that will show you exactly how it works .... then you need a 16in dowel or similar piece of thin flat stock ..... from the right side of the frunk you will have to lift up the upper corner as far as it will go ... use something to keep it up ... the small plastic access cover on that side needs to be removed ... have a strong flashlight and look at the latch mechanism, you need to use the dowel or rod to push the Latch lever this will open it ..... the corner of the frunk can come up more than you might think .... go slow and test how far you can move it and stuffing something ( like a cloth wrapped piece of wood ) in the crack makes doing this possible .... I would add the cable as described above ..... good luck ...... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Grandpot]

Can anybody tell em how to open frunk mine will not open 2012 RT se5. The key will not open it or the button

This isn't going to help you right now, but it will if you get locked out again.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LtUDlTER1jc&t=43s

 

[Peter Aawen]

Can anybody tell em how to open frunk mine will not open 2012 RT se5. The key will not open it or the button

If your frunk is not opening because it's chokka's full &/or the rubber sealing strip is not in the right place/jamming the latch tight, you might just need to press down firmly over the latch at the same time as pressing down on the key & turning it, ie. operating the key release! :thumbup:

The electric button activated openers are notoriously un-reliable, so much so that I thought they were discontinued after about 2014, but I could have that year wrong... or yours is a retro-fit! :dontknow:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

This isn't going to help you right now, but it will if you get locked out again.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LtUDlTER1jc&t=43s

Nice video .... however I did a few dozen of these when I was a " vendor " and only re-moved the TWO slide out access panels .... then I took off the OEM cable release and un-bolted the LATCH from the Frunk top ..... I drilled a 3/32 hole at the far end of the latch handle ( this is the long one & gives much more leverage for opening the latch ) ..... I took a 20" - 24" piece of the H.D. coated cable & put one end into the latch, I made my own " ferrules " and crimped them with cutter on a pair large pliers ..... for the other end I used some wood blocks that I had drilled another 3/32nd hole pushed the wire thru and then Ferrule + crimping it ..... This wire went under the left side access panel and down behind the left side grill, for easy access by just reaching up under the left side fender well grabbing the cable and a slight tug would open the Frunk .... Yes the cable could used in an emergency, however I know the OEM one will eventually break, so I use my cable release ALL the time ..... good luck .... Mike ::thumbup:.....PS, all this took me about 20 minutes start to finish ..... good luck

 

[Shadow4]

can you give me any hints to getting my frunk open its stuck closed

 

[irvin48]

i made the diy cables for both latches too. use almost all the time. could
just see that key breaking. this was just after purchase in 2016 afer i read mike's post .
thanks mike !
.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

opening the frunk

can you give me any hints to getting my frunk open its stuck closed

I suggest you go to " cheapcycleparts "and look at their Fiche' of the frunk latch mechanism ..... to get the frunk open you will need a stiff rod ( 18" ) to release the Latch ..... go in from the right side .... that corner of the frunk can be raised quite a bit ( test it ) .... get a block to hold it open .... then slide the Rod under the Triangular black plastic cover .... push the latch .... it will open ..... then make a pull cord / wire to use instead of the KEY, IMHO the Key should only be used to start / stop the engine .... asking it to open things is a problem ..... Mike :thumbup: