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Front Sprocket Failure

Hello all. Does anyone know how to remove the bolt holding the sprocket in place? Even in gear the shaft still moves when I am trying to loosen bolt. The sprocket has the belt attached and it doesn’t move so it is definitely the sprocket or shaft.

PMK advise should work if you do it properly
if not you would need to hold the clutch basket,not the pulley

when i refitted my bolt,i removed the yellow thread locker from it and used fresh blue loctite,but i do plan to check this component every 10K Kms
russ
 
2015 F3-S Sprocket #4 just went out. 76,500 miles total. Seems about every 20,000 miles. Not much I can do but order another one! :banghead:
 
2015 F3-S Sprocket #4 just went out. 76,500 miles total. Seems about every 20,000 miles. Not much I can do but order another one! :banghead:

Are you replacing them yourself? Are you using Locktite or Moly? Have you just been replacing the sprocket? Have you had to have the shaft replaced? About to replace my first sprocket myself on my 2015 F3S which is why I'm asking all the questions.
 
Are you replacing them yourself? Are you using Locktite or Moly? Have you just been replacing the sprocket? Have you had to have the shaft replaced? About to replace my first sprocket myself on my 2015 F3S which is why I'm asking all the questions.

This will the first time I am replacing myself since warranty has expired. The other times the local dealer has been replacing them. I will be using Moly paste, new bolt, new washer and new sprocket. Shaft is still within specs.
 
This will the first time I am replacing myself since warranty has expired. The other times the local dealer has been replacing them. I will be using Moly paste, new bolt, new washer and new sprocket. Shaft is still within specs.

Thanks - which Moly Grease are you using?
 
Is the Loctite Moly Paste what BRP suggests? I have some Valvoline Synthetic Moly grease and had planned to use that but dont want to cheap out to save $35. Do you think the Valvoline product is good or should I get the Loctite product?
 
Is the Loctite Moly Paste what BRP suggests? I have some Valvoline Synthetic Moly grease and had planned to use that but dont want to cheap out to save $35. Do you think the Valvoline product is good or should I get the Loctite product?

Regarding what BRP specifies, it is not a moly paste or moly lube. The stuff BRP specifies is Kluberpaste 46 MR401.

Valvoline synthetic grease with moly is not the same as a moly paste and should not be used.

Molykote 77 should be available from your local Honda dealer for a reasonable cost.
 
I'm confused: is the Moly 77 used on the bolt thread, or on the spline?

Splines on countershaft and splines inside pulley are cleaned and dried. Then coated with Molykote. Bolt should be torqued with clean dry threads to specs unless adjustments are made to convert to wet torque.
 
This will the first time I am replacing myself since warranty has expired. The other times the local dealer has been replacing them. I will be using Moly paste, new bolt, new washer and new sprocket. Shaft is still within specs.


The remark that the shaft is within spec is curiously interesting. Has BRP released / published a dimensional check that determines if the shaft is worn beyond limits or are you saying within spec based on your own visual inspection?
 
Splines on countershaft and splines inside pulley are cleaned and dried. Then coated with Molykote. Bolt should be torqued with clean dry threads to specs unless adjustments are made to convert to wet torque.

Thanks for the info.
Has anyone come up with any theories as to why these failures seem more prevalent on the F3 than on Rt's?
 
This will the first time I am replacing myself since warranty has expired. The other times the local dealer has been replacing them. I will be using Moly paste, new bolt, new washer and new sprocket. Shaft is still within specs.

Did the dealer replace your sprocket dry with no lube? Curious as I have the paste you specified, but want to make sure it's not an issue also.
 
Torque spec

The failure is the bolt coming loose. Its not the pulley that is the problem. Once the bolt is loose, either the pulley or the shaft is going to fail, the pulley is the easy to replace part so designed to fail first.

Check the bolt torque on that pulley every oil change.

Hey JC, I just replaced my sprocket. What is the correct torque?
 
My '17 RTL is on version 3 of the sprocket. Each one has been replaced under warranty and the last one was replaced this year.

For those of you who have paid for this yourself, contact BRP for a reimbursement of your part and labour.

These forums are littered with reports of these failing, my latest one was replaced at 60'000kms and started making a noise less than 5000kms later...

While I've heard many reports from BRP Tech and others as to the cause I'm not convinced the Bolt tension is the issue, nor belt tension.
 
I carry the upgraded white sprocket around with me just in case it fails a second time!

Not belittling that 'just in case' approach at all (cos it does sound like it might be a good idea... ) but I thought that the 'upgraded sprocket' had nothing to do with the 'sprocket working loose on the driveshaft splines' issue, but everything to do with the 'wind noise' that many complained about with the release of the 'new model' shape in 2020 that had even less tupperware to contain the noise!?! :rolleyes:

After all, the white bit on the 'upgraded sprocket' is effectively just a ceramic coating on the same old same old sprocket, so that the wind noise is lessened but not completely eliminated! I don't know how that would make any difference to the ongoing tightness of the sprocket on the splines, even if there is a new bolt involved! :shocked:
 
I just had the same thing happen. Thank god i wasn’t on the expressway, i was riding on the az 303. Average speed is 80 mph. I would have died. The following morNing i was driving to work and i just lost all power.
Repair is $600. Brp is a joke. Machine is can am technician maintained.
I don’t think i will trust it again. Buyer beware!
 
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