Front sprocket access

[spyder01]

Has anyone figured out a way to make the small black cover that blocks getting at the front sprocket on an RT easier to remove?It really isn't held on by much at all but to get it off you need to pull several other panels off.If it was easier then checking the sprocket and belt or tensioner would be so easy.Maybe some dzus fasteners or quick release setup.

 

[PMK]

Has anyone figured out a way to make the small black cover that blocks getting at the front sprocket on an RT easier to remove?It really isn't held on by much at all but to get it off you need to pull several other panels off.If it was easier then checking the sprocket and belt or tensioner would be so easy.Maybe some dzus fasteners or quick release setup.

Why, simpler to accomplish without modifications some preventative maintenance. Gain access, remove the pulley, inspect, reuse if serviceable, install onto wetted splines and reassemble.

Simply not worth risking possible damage to the countershaft itself.

 

[spyder01]

Why,because I like to keep a close eye on that rear drive area.Ive been off road a fair amount and Ive gotten mud in there plus I have a tensioner which I want to inspect the roller from time to time.This area seems to be one that gets talked about a lot on this forum so if I could remove this cover a little easier that would help.Plus I dont like to leave things alone,Ive had a good time fiddling around with my Spyder.

 

[h0gr1der]

Quick question here about front sprocket inspection. I've read all the inspection threads, I'm comfortable with that. How about re-installation? Talking the new upgraded torque value of 111 FT/Lbs ±4. How do you lock the shaft from turning? Do you let the belt take the stress and the parking brake keep the shaft from turning? Is there a pulley locking tool? I haven't seen much mention of this specific thing, any help would be appreciated.

 

[PMK]

Why,because I like to keep a close eye on that rear drive area.Ive been off road a fair amount and Ive gotten mud in there plus I have a tensioner which I want to inspect the roller from time to time.This area seems to be one that gets talked about a lot on this forum so if I could remove this cover a little easier that would help.Plus I dont like to leave things alone,Ive had a good time fiddling around with my Spyder.

Access for removing mud or debris, or inspecting a tensioner is understandable.

Pretty easy mod. Leave enough edge and trim out the inspection cover size you prefer. Install a doubler flange behind your cutout perimeter. Secure that and fasten the access cover last.

 

[stevencovert]

Quick question here about front sprocket inspection. I've read all the inspection threads, I'm comfortable with that. How about re-installation? Talking the new upgraded torque value of 111 FT/Lbs ±4. How do you lock the shaft from turning? Do you let the belt take the stress and the parking brake keep the shaft from turning? Is there a pulley locking tool? I haven't seen much mention of this specific thing, any help would be appreciated.

I have changed out several sprockets. Once you get the belt back on, and the rear shock re-mounted, I slid a broom handle through the rear wheel and let it clamp to the frame when torquing the front bolt. Also, look up the new paste to put on the splines. It transfers torque better, but I forget what it is called. I bought a tiny little tube of it. There has been a lot of questions on keeping the spline dry, using high temp grease, etc. but BRP finally put out a bulletin said to use gear grease. Maybe someone here can remember what it is called.

 

[PMK]

I have changed out several sprockets. Once you get the belt back on, and the rear shock re-mounted, I slid a broom handle through the rear wheel and let it clamp to the frame when torquing the front bolt. Also, look up the new paste to put on the splines. It transfers torque better, but I forget what it is called. I bought a tiny little tube of it. There has been a lot of questions on keeping the spline dry, using high temp grease, etc. but BRP finally put out a bulletin said to use gear grease. Maybe someone here can remember what it is called.

The info I saw called out a specific Kluberpaste. Forgot the exact number but researched it. Seemed pretty basic in regards to performance.

 

[Freddy]

h0gr1der - to answer your question, I applied the park brake, chocked the rear wheel and torqued the bolt to 110ft lb. I put Molykote paste on the splines, taking particular care to keep it from transferring to the inner & outer pulley faces upon installation. That was about 8 years ago and all good since. Just do it! :cheers:

 

[Revalden]

Is there an upgraded pulley available?

 

[h0gr1der]

Is there an upgraded pulley available?

Not that I am aware of, but there is an upgraded pulley bolt and torque spec depending on the year of your Spyder. The new bolt has a large flange with no washer and torque is up to 111 Ft/Lb ±4 Ft/Lb. Not sure what year they switched.

 

[RICZ]

Is a puller required to remove the front pulley, or will it slide of the shaft?

 

[PinkRosePetal]

Is a puller required to remove the front pulley, or will it slide of the shaft?

Good question. If the pulley is in good condition it's a nice slide fit, if it's rust red you may find it very tight to remove. The red one I did, nothing would made it move, big levers, puller etc. As soon as I lubed it with solvent down the splines it simply slipped off. Magic. Very weird.

 

[RICZ]

Good question. If the pulley is in good condition it's a nice slide fit, if it's rust red you may find it very tight to remove. The red one I did, nothing would made it move, big levers, puller etc. As soon as I lubed it with solvent down the splines it simply slipped off. Magic. Very weird.

So, would there be an advantage to lubing the splines on a low mileage bike, in the name of preventative maintenance? The bike is a 2017 F3L purchased new last February and has just over 700 miles.
Or should I just not worry about it for a while?

 

[PinkRosePetal]

So, would there be an advantage to lubing the splines on a low mileage bike, in the name of preventative maintenance? The bike is a 2017 F3L purchased new last February and has just over 700 miles.
Or should I just not worry about it for a while?

I think that would be a reasonable plan. Before I knew about the rust problem I removed my pulley and modified it to get better belt alignment then reassembled it using CV grease. (For info that's grease designed for car constant velocity joints which are extremely highly loaded.) I tightened the bolt to about 120lb/ft. The bike is now at 12k miles and I've rechecked the bolt and sprocket recently and all is ok. The benefit of the preventative maintenance is that there is no degradation of the splines and drive surfaces. If you wait until there is a problem, the part will forever be substandard.

The red one I dealt with wasn't my bike, there is a thread about it if you search, I tightened that one to 110lb/ft, it's done about 6k miles since and it appears to be ok and shows no sign of failing.
At 120lb/ft I felt a little yield so it's possibly a tad too high a torque so I don't recommend that.