Front scrapping on driveways

[coz]

alternative

put on a set of adjustable rt shocks. they will raise your front end and improve handling, they do ride rough though, at least they did on my gs.

 

[Bob Denman]

No doubt; a good set of Elkas can be set up to raise the front end a bit...
But if you're trying to work within a budget... :dontknow:

 

[mtdoragary]

The offset lower shock mounts not only improved my RT's handling, but also added about a half-inch clearance in front. Haven't scraped or scooped a dead possum since I installed them!

 

[spacetiger]

Jerry, some of this info is not accurate.

First off, the most accurate is installing proper springs. Eibach makes a quality product and properly selected will give the means to a quality ride and good handling.

To better state some of your post,

The rubber wedges keep the spring from compressing between the coils they are wedged in between. (This increases the springs rate by manipulating active number of coils) That can help keep the bike from bottoming out (scraping the bottom of the chin of the bike), but the bike is still is in effect bottoming out as the wedges are simply reducing the amount the springs can compress. (You may be referring to coil bind as opposed to true bottoming on the cushion) The use of rubber reduces (a bit) the impact you and the bike are going to experience every time you hit that new limit. You should know, since the wedges don't change the spring rates, you are going to "bottom out" a lot more often. (Depends upon where the rubbers are positioned and explained below)

When rubbers or other devices are installed between coils, the effective length of wire is reduced and the spring rate will increase. If the rubber is positioned under the end of the spring or preload collar is adjusted to shorten the spring, the springs rate is unchanged since all coils and wire length are still active.

This was not meant to slam or discredit your post, rather the opposite. Your method of installing proper springs is, in my opinion the best means to a quality ride feel and handling. However preload increase or decrease is an extremely important tuning tool to fine tune ride height or sag.

Good choice on the Eibach, Hypercoils if available in the right dimensions are good also. FWIW, many suspension companies such as Race Tech will sell Eibach springs powder coated and badged as their own.

PK

PK,

No worries on the clarification; I didn't state this as clear as I could have. And, yes, it makes a difference where you place the isolators (at end of spring or somewhere away from the spring ends) thanks for making that point.

Agree, preload changes to fine tune the suspension is important. My first try to sort out the suspension was to add an additional spacer to the front shocks. This did get the sag in an acceptable range, but the max load the front spring was not able to keep the front from bottoming out under certain conditions. For me, that was the signal to get better springs on the bike.

I wish there was more discusion like this to address all aspects of the bike to advance the "motorcyclist" that ride this bike. When the cost of putting the right springs on the bike is so cheap ($116), I cannot understand why no other rider has done this...

Jerry

 

[PMK]

PK,

No worries on the clarification; I didn't state this as clear as I could have. And, yes, it makes a difference where you place the isolators (at end of spring or somewhere away from the spring ends) thanks for making that point.

Agree, preload changes to fine tune the suspension is important. My first try to sort out the suspension was to add an additional spacer to the front shocks. This did get the sag in an acceptable range, but the max load the front spring was not able to keep the front from bottoming out under certain conditions. For me, that was the signal to get better springs on the bike.

I wish there was more discusion like this to address all aspects of the bike to advance the "motorcyclist" that ride this bike. When the cost of putting the right springs on the bike is so cheap ($116), I cannot understand why no other rider has done this...

Jerry

Not many riders fully understand suspension, let alone understand how to tune it. For many years I have always said, good suspension is simply the best compromise of each setting.

Spring swaps for different rider weights is not difficult and honestly should be worth considering for optimum safety and control.

PK

 

[Netminder]

Cruzr Joe - why would you tell someone to spend money that doesn't solve the problem and tell them to take these kinds of pavement transitions at an angle???? They could take these transitions at an angle without spending any money...

The bump skid only reduces the existing ground clearance so you are going to scrape a lot more if you don't address the problem.

I would agree the bumskid does not help with the bottoming out, but it is much better insurance at protecting your frunk bottom than the OEM is! Plus you will be glad you have it if you hit a small critter! Personally think it is a great investment! JMHO!

 

[billrob71]

I go out the driveway front first and at a angle , thats the only way mine will not scrape . If I back out even at a angle it scrapes. I looked in the bump skid and may get one but still will scrape but now the bump skid gets scraped instead of the nose , the bump skid almost costs as much as a new nose piece. ($200with shipping vs $234 list at the dealer). Go out your driveway easy and at a angle.

 

[spacetiger]

I don't think the OP is talking about bottoming out like hitting a bump too fast. He is talking about having insufficient clearance under the nose to maneuver a transition in the road without scraping. Same problem folks have when trying to drive onto the ramp of a trailer.

A skid plate will help protect the tupperware from damage as it will drag instead.
Approaching the 'ramp' at an angle helps as it gets one front tire climbing the ramp earlier.
Raising the front end with stiffer springs will help but will change your alignment so bear that in mind

and fyi....

Adding those rubber spacers under (or over) the spring will raise the ride height without changing the spring rate.
Adding those rubber spacers BETWEEN two coils will raise the ride height, but less so, and DOES change the spring rate. The springs get stiffer because rate is wire diameter X number of coils. Adding a block between coils eliminates the function of those coils as they can no longer flex. You now have a spring with the same wire diameter but effectively less coils = stiffer springs

Awwww, ya beat me to it!!!

Duffer,

Next Time I pull the front springs, I'll remount the shocks minus the springs so you can see how the ground clearance gets reduced when the shocks gets compressed. When you go over road transitions like pot holes, speed bumps, driveways, the weak springs allow the shocks to compress and bottom scraps.

Jerry

 

[PW2013STL]

He is correct:yes:

:agree: 100%

 

[Bfromla]

I have the same problem but if I enter and exit the roadway at an angle it helps.

2013 STL here same agree, tech offered to adjust shocks @ oil change, thx but was more of a bad habit in how i entered certain drives. Made mental note & have had no other problems. Thats saying a lot for LA roads!


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[Flamewinger]

I'm having the same problem. I got BRP's Fox shocks when I bought the ST-L and now have 10k miles on it. The last 1-2000 miles I've noticed more scraping than normal. If I went fast I scraped but now even if I go slow I scrape. The Fox shocks have adjustable springs and I want to stiffen them. I tried lifting the front so the wheels are off the ground and I couldn't budge the lock ring. I'm going to try a cheater bar but any other ideas would be nice.

Picture of sagging ST.

 

[kep-up]

put a wee bit of light lubricant on the threads before trying to move the lockring.

 

[Bob Denman]

Before putting a bar to it :shocked:; I'd try to see if I could find some sort of penetrating lubricant that might loosen it up a bit...
Good Luck! :thumbup:

 

[ARtraveler]

Just slow down, and "walk" the bike through the low spots at an angle... :thumbup:
These bikes aren't exactly blessed with an abundance of ground clearance; ride them as such... :shocked:

:agree: I am going to chime in and 2nd the motion here. I always take it very slow when entering "new" territory. The angle method works for me going up/down driveways. I am always careful about how close I get to those concrete bumpers also.

Front end damage (even if cosmetic) can be very expensive. :yikes:

 

[Ben Burped]

Remember the KISS concept

Hi all, I have been riding my ST L for about a month and find that when I am going out a driveway from say a store, the front hits on the ground. Would stiffening the shocks (assuming this can be done) help? The tire pressures are correct. Or is this just the way it is? Thanks, Dean

First check to see if the adjustments on the front shocks are set to the highest position. Second, try the BRP Fox shock and set it on the highest position before installation. Putting a Bump skid on should be a last resort because it won't fix anything. It will just protect the plastic when you still hit the ground. Been there. Done this.

 

[Ben Burped]

Easier way to do it

I'm having the same problem. I got BRP's Fox shocks when I bought the ST-L and now have 10k miles on it. The last 1-2000 miles I've noticed more scraping than normal. If I went fast I scraped but now even if I go slow I scrape. The Fox shocks have adjustable springs and I want to stiffen them. I tried lifting the front so the wheels are off the ground and I couldn't budge the lock ring. I'm going to try a cheater bar but any other ideas would be nice.

Picture of sagging ST.

View attachment 100236

Take the shocks off and use two spanner wrenches to loosen the locknuts, adjust them up to the top , and then lock them. Channel lock pliers will do the job but will scar up the locknuts. On a personal note, I found it easier to do this with the front cargo module removed. Been there. Done this.

 

[spacetiger]

[h=2][/h]

I would offer this as an easier solution as the shock can stay on the bike.

1. Lift the front of the bike (side you will adjust the shock on) via a jack. Don't lift the rear wheel, it is your park brake and keeps the bike from moving.

2. Fit two ratchet straps and put them on the spring opposite from each other like the pic below. Take up the slack in the straps and tighten them down. You do not have to actually compress the spring; With the bike side jacked up, the only load on the spring is the preload. Each strap can easily counter the preload by tightening the spring coils with ~ 100 lb for each strap or ~200 lbs total. That should be enough to leave very little compression force on that shock from the spring.

3. Adjust up the 1st ring behind the spring to compress the spring (it really is best to use the right tool, another bike tool might work and would be better than channel lock pliers as they are less likely to mare the aluminum lock rings); you do do not have to loosen the back ring. Move each shock side an equal amount. Try to see if you can move it about 1/3", that would be a good starting point.

4. Move up the 2nd ring to backstop the 1st.

5. Release tension one each strap one at a time, then remove from shock. Move over to do the other side.

This way should keep you from having to remove the shocks and will make it easier to put additional preload on the springs.

Post back what you do and how it worked out.


Jerry​

 

[Bfromla]

Has anyone asked Baja Ron bout this and his need for test pilots, per his new shocks?


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[Bob Denman]

I know that he had CruzrJoe on board; I'd have to guess that he's got his 2nd prototype tester already

 

[Dragonrider]

This is not a limited problem - my 2014 RT scrapes on rough roads, but not on curbs -perhaps I automatically take those at an angle.

Last summer I was on a ride with a lot of weather damage, and could not go slow enough to keep the Spyder from scraping. I have Ron's anti-sway bar ready to install this winter, and may put wedges in the springs too. Spending $1K+ for a set of shocks is out of the question.