-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Front Fork Adjustments
- Thread starter Motogordo
- Start date
Y Rider
New member
I have a 2011 RT. With the stock shocks set to 3 it was a very smooth ride but I would get a lot of roll with fast turns. Changing the tire pressure to 20# in the front and the shocks to to 5 was the best setting for me with the stock shocks. The ride wasn't as smooth but it didn't roll as bad in the turns. I still had issues with high cross winds and the bike rocking. I ended up with Elka shocks in the front and 18# of air in the front tires and now all is well. Very little rocking with cross winds and very little roll in the turns. :2thumbs:
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
I liked my 2011 set at a preload of #3, but I like it better at #4 solo and #5 two-up. You will sacrifice some ride softness. The easiest way is to try the various settings and see what you like best.
Bob Denman
New member
Everybody seems to universally agree that adding preload and air up front improves things. The trick is to flavor it the way YOU like it and then leave it alone! nojoke
Agree! I have never had a bike that had to be jacked just to change the spring load. I ride single and two up and to keep changing, well...I'm gonna try to find the happy medium...crazy! As for the slight swaying...I have not figured that out. Front shock settings, new shocks, air pressure..lot's of reasons I guess. I'm chalking it up to the DPS and two wheels.....it does not "hold the line" like a traditional bike with a single wheel up front and of course the steering mechansisms are way different...That's the hardest thing for me to get used to....700+ miles on my 2011 RTS.
Bob Denman
New member
:agree::clap:
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
A Spyder does not have the assistance of the gyroscopic stability that a conventional bike has, so it will not try to remain straight if influenced by steering, winds, or the road surface. If you are having direction stabilty issues, have your alignment checked. If you have a 2010 RT, pay to have the toe-in increased to the newest 2011 spec. You may also want to purchase the 2011 front shocks to cut down on the body roll, or go with aftermarket shocks.
Thanks all! Just to clarify, I have only been riding bikes since 2005. A few years. My Spyder is a 2011..total stock. Got the "grip" thing, but that is not always possible in heavy fast moving traffic or on the twists. Putting around town, OK. It's at it's worse just cruising down the highway at 70. The swaying (no wind) is due to road conditions and the DPS. This is just something I need to get use to and with time and miles, I already see improvement. Upgrading stock vehicle at these prices is my last resort.
CycleChamp
New member
I am aware that the front end needs to be lifted off the ground while adjusting the front shocks, but I still haven't read where the jack should be placed. I look under my 2011 RT and don't really see any place that looks strong enough to lift the weight. Pictures would be a big help, if anyone has some.
Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.
Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
With an ATV jack, you jack under the horizontal portion of the frame.
One of the reasons it doesn't hold the line like a two wheeler is the rear wheel is reacting to the crown in the road, ie; Tail wagging the dog, Also there's no gyroscopic effect like with a two wheeler , Believe it or not if you ease up in the bars [grip] you'll get used to it. :thumbup:
Grandpa Spyder
New member
My two cents worth, I have my shocks at 4 and 18 lbs. air. This works for me. as far as adjusting I was able to move the shocks to 4 without raising it. and if you want to go down you should find going down to be easy without raising it.
I think on the later Spyder's BRP started to use a better grade of medal on the adjustment rings. [cams]
Early on quite a few rings broke if Wd 40 and jacking up weren't done..
I broke one on my 08 even after using Wd 40 and jacked it up. :shocked:
Similar threads
