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Front end wobble

Warped rotors will wobble front end really bad if brakes are applied forcefully. That’s why I said do at low and high speed. That would be the wobble at high speed braking. Pre load uneven or to tight of shocks would cause it on acceleration. I’d first get air correct in tires and check and test. Next check the lugs, remove and retighten to 77 and test. Next loosen the shocks to Oem setting and test. Other words loosen so no pressure. Test. Add a pound of air in shocks or a twist depending on which setup and make sure spyder is level sitting on it. If the front is to high or loaded there’s no down force taking off. My opinion I like the front a touch lower. I’ve set many snowmobiles up with shocks and a correctly dialed in shocks make a huge difference. Incorrect setting will cause lift at the acceleration. If the fronts are to stiff and the backs soft it’s going to be sloppy. Both the fronts and backs must mate while sitting on it. One extreme on one end will cause lift. A stiffer rear and touch softer front is best as long as it level sitting on it. Baja Ron knows the measurements. Follow his recommendations on the shock setup. It’s best to start everything soft and adjust accordingly. Rear then fronts. Test after each shock adjustment. Slow and steady.
 
My Jeep Grand Cherokees for several years had front rotor warpage problems. Bought Summit premium racing rotors and still had the same problem. A Summit tech advisor gave me a driving formula to heat up my Jeep's rotors and then how to cool them down. The process was to supposed remove the warp out of the rotor. I'll be dammed if it didn't work. Don't know if that process would work on a spyder or not? Basically, heat them up and get them real hot, then let them cool without using them.
 
Just to add another 'possible issue' into the mix, one of our 'more mechanically savvy' members here Pinkrosepetal (here as in, 'on the Forum', but actually a UK based member ;) ) discovered that at least some front discs aren't squarely mounted on the hub/spindle, which can cause a 'wobble' as well as disc/pad wear issues & may potentially even cause 'wobble under acceleration'! :dontknow:

Might be worth your while to do a search on pinkrosepetal's posts to see if that particular issue sounds anything like your concerns aka1004. Over to you! :cheers:
 
Since rotors are kinda floating on three bolts , how do you make sure it’s properly seated?



Just to add another 'possible issue' into the mix, one of our 'more mechanically savvy' members here Pinkrosepetal (here as in, 'on the Forum', but actually a UK based member ;) ) discovered that at least some front discs aren't squarely mounted on the hub/spindle, which can cause a 'wobble' as well as disc/pad wear issues & may potentially even cause 'wobble under acceleration'! :dontknow:

Might be worth your while to do a search on pinkrosepetal's posts to see if that particular issue sounds anything like your concerns aka1004. Over to you! :cheers:
 
Another way I've been told to check rotor warpage is to remove the rotor and place it on a piece of glass and see if it rocks back and forth. Then turn it over and do the same thing again. If it does then it warped. Make sure it's a thick flat piece of glass. You can even use a straight edge, but it is easier with the glass.
 
So I’ve lowered/soften quite a bit(about 30%) on front shock rebound and that does seem to help, both in acceleration and braking but when I hit the brake hard, rear(not adjusted) got loose.
I soften rear shock rebound sorta matching the front but more testing is needed.
 
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