Fix for the odd sized Pushpins in RT Black Panels!

[chipveres]

There is one pushpin at the front inside of the black Tupperware on the Spyder RT. It goes vertically into a part of the frame just behind the A-arm. It is the same size and shape as the pushpins at the other end of the black panel behind the saddlebag. But it is SMALLER than the regular pushpins that cover the cycle. You can drive yourself nuts trying to get a regular pushpin into the too-small hole. Either the extreme front or extreme rear pushpins can benefit from replacing the plastic Phillips screws with real stainless steel sheet metal screws.

 

[Navydad]

Plastic pins are cheaper. Save a dollar on every Spyder built and it adds up.

 

[spyderdave]

I have found that 32 tpi screws best matche the threads in those rivets

 

[BertRemington]

And better yet is replacing pushpins with rivet nuts so you can use machine screws. Like my flanged button-head hex socket machine screws that I've replaced all fasteners with. Easy to operate, easy to see, etc etc.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

And better yet is replacing pushpins with rivet nuts so you can use machine screws. Like my flanged button-head hex socket machine screws that I've replaced all fasteners with. Easy to operate, easy to see, etc etc.

Bert do you have a LINK for them ?????? .....Thanks ...Mike :thumbup:

 

[spyderdave]

And better yet is replacing pushpins with rivet nuts so you can use machine screws. Like my flanged button-head hex socket machine screws that I've replaced all fasteners with. Easy to operate, easy to see, etc etc.

And the installation tool.

 

[BertRemington]

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...astic-rivets&p=1658901&viewfull=1#post1658901

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...astic-rivets&p=1658979&viewfull=1#post1658979

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...astic-rivets&p=1659105&viewfull=1#post1659105

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...vets-removal&p=1611674&viewfull=1#post1611674

First I made the decision to use stainless steel flanged button-head hex socket machine screws to replace the black steel Torx socket machine screws BRP used. Torx requires a fairly small angle of attack. Hex allows the use of ball-head wrenches with much wider angle of attack.

But I got addicted and started replacing u-clips with rivet nuts like this https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Nutsert-Threaded-Rivnuts-Assortment/dp/B08MCVCWYL/

After that success I went after pushpins. Due to the thin material a pre-bulb shank is required (just like drywall) https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Multi-Grip-Rivet-Nut-Pre-Bulbed-Color-Zinc-Plated/dp/B0966ZKKKG/

A kit is nice https://www.amazon.com/Rivet-Professional-Setter-Metric-Mandrels/dp/B07T8YZY23/ and a two-hand tool is needed for 6mm and above. 5mm and below is best with a single-hand tool like this https://www.amazon.com/NEXTACK-Assortment-Mandrels-Organized-Carrying/dp/B09LV22WL7/ You will under- and over-tighten several rivnuts. Ratcheting tools help with fine-grain tightening control.

The extra length of the pre-bulb shank requires longer mandrels which I found at Summit Racing https://www.summitracing.com/search...tOrder=Ascending&keyword=Astro Pneumatic LM5M

That's all for tonight. Kinda tired from projects not going smoothly but I'll watch for questions.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...astic-rivets&p=1658901&viewfull=1#post1658901

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...astic-rivets&p=1658979&viewfull=1#post1658979

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...astic-rivets&p=1659105&viewfull=1#post1659105

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...vets-removal&p=1611674&viewfull=1#post1611674

First I made the decision to use stainless steel flanged button-head hex socket machine screws to replace the black steel Torx socket machine screws BRP used. Torx requires a fairly small angle of attack. Hex allows the use of ball-head wrenches with much wider angle of attack.

But I got addicted and started replacing u-clips with rivet nuts like this https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Nutsert-Threaded-Rivnuts-Assortment/dp/B08MCVCWYL/

After that success I went after pushpins. Due to the thin material a pre-bulb shank is required (just like drywall) https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Multi-Grip-Rivet-Nut-Pre-Bulbed-Color-Zinc-Plated/dp/B0966ZKKKG/

A kit is nice https://www.amazon.com/Rivet-Professional-Setter-Metric-Mandrels/dp/B07T8YZY23/ and a two-hand tool is needed for 6mm and above. 5mm and below is best with a single-hand tool like this https://www.amazon.com/NEXTACK-Assortment-Mandrels-Organized-Carrying/dp/B09LV22WL7/ You will under- and over-tighten several rivnuts. Ratcheting tools help with fine-grain tightening control.

The extra length of the pre-bulb shank requires longer mandrels which I found at Summit Racing https://www.summitracing.com/search...tOrder=Ascending&keyword=Astro Pneumatic LM5M

That's all for tonight. Kinda tired from projects not going smoothly but I'll watch for questions.

Thank you very much .....Mike :thumbup:

 

[spyderdave]

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...astic-rivets&p=1658901&viewfull=1#post1658901

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...astic-rivets&p=1658979&viewfull=1#post1658979

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...astic-rivets&p=1659105&viewfull=1#post1659105

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...vets-removal&p=1611674&viewfull=1#post1611674

First I made the decision to use stainless steel flanged button-head hex socket machine screws to replace the black steel Torx socket machine screws BRP used. Torx requires a fairly small angle of attack. Hex allows the use of ball-head wrenches with much wider angle of attack.

But I got addicted and started replacing u-clips with rivet nuts like this https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Nutsert-Threaded-Rivnuts-Assortment/dp/B08MCVCWYL/

After that success I went after pushpins. Due to the thin material a pre-bulb shank is required (just like drywall) https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Multi-Grip-Rivet-Nut-Pre-Bulbed-Color-Zinc-Plated/dp/B0966ZKKKG/

A kit is nice https://www.amazon.com/Rivet-Professional-Setter-Metric-Mandrels/dp/B07T8YZY23/ and a two-hand tool is needed for 6mm and above. 5mm and below is best with a single-hand tool like this https://www.amazon.com/NEXTACK-Assortment-Mandrels-Organized-Carrying/dp/B09LV22WL7/ You will under- and over-tighten several rivnuts. Ratcheting tools help with fine-grain tightening control.

The extra length of the pre-bulb shank requires longer mandrels which I found at Summit Racing https://www.summitracing.com/search...tOrder=Ascending&keyword=Astro Pneumatic LM5M

That's all for tonight. Kinda tired from projects not going smoothly but I'll watch for questions.

That's awesome! My RT is gonna be a little heavier, but easier to work on very soon.

 

[larryd]

Anyone have a source for the stainless steel flanged button-head hex socket machine screws in SS and black... In the sizes and lengths needed for 2010/2019 RT's??? THANK YOU, larryd

 

[spyderdave]

I'm not sure there's REALLY a "black stainless steel"; I think it is a polymer coating on 18-8, 304 or 316. Check Amazon.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Anyone have a source for the stainless steel flanged button-head hex socket machine screws in SS and black... In the sizes and lengths needed for 2010/2019 RT's??? THANK YOU, larryd

I would see if Mcmaster-Carr has them .... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[larryd]

Anyone have a source for the stainless steel flanged button-head hex socket machine screws in SS and black... In the sizes and lengths needed for 2010/2019 RT's??? THANK YOU, larryd

I'm looking for the size and length, so I have some idea of what to buy??? The nut types are covered in BertRemington's posts

 

[pidjones]

My local ACE hardware carries button head SS Allens in both metric and ASE.