I put some stuff in the front trunk , latched it and when I tried to open again to put something else in the switch will not allow the trunk to open. So is this a fuse or an actuater problem? Also isnt there a way to open this trunk manually? Bike is only two weeks old --very frustrating. Any help would be appreciated!
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First problem on my 2012 spyder rts sm5
- Thread starter Questions
- Start date
thanks for the help
Got it to open manually-closed/open a couple times-- auto open switch not working
Got it to open manually-closed/open a couple times-- auto open switch not working
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
The usual causes...
Too much stuff in the trunk, pushing up on the lid.
Weatherstrip or trunk liner pulled off the lip or improperly installed, pushing up on the lid.
Trunk latch improperly adjusted.
Trunk latch inadequately lubed.
Trunk switch arm bent or broken (easily done).
Too much stuff in the trunk, pushing up on the lid.
Weatherstrip or trunk liner pulled off the lip or improperly installed, pushing up on the lid.
Trunk latch improperly adjusted.
Trunk latch inadequately lubed.
Trunk switch arm bent or broken (easily done).
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
See the list of reasons above. It is usually one of those. proper adjustment and lubrication are critical.
:agree: Try pushing down on the frunk by the latch while you hit the switch. That'll take the pressure off the latch and allow it to move.
Dragonrider
New member
Nancy's toy has got it cold! If it opens when you push down on the lid adjust/lube & you should be good to go.
I did have the weather strip roll off once, but put it back with a dab of grip glue, and never had the problem again....
I did have the weather strip roll off once, but put it back with a dab of grip glue, and never had the problem again....
SPYDER FINALLY OPENED ITS FRUNK
I opened and closed it manually a few times and I noticed (like all of you stated) that the moulding was pushed up. I pushed it back down and it worked a couple times with the remote switch, then it wouldnt work again. It appears that this latch is out of adjustment. I have to take it in for the 600 mile check/oil change so Ill have the dealer adjust.
Thanks to all of you for your help!
I opened and closed it manually a few times and I noticed (like all of you stated) that the moulding was pushed up. I pushed it back down and it worked a couple times with the remote switch, then it wouldnt work again. It appears that this latch is out of adjustment. I have to take it in for the 600 mile check/oil change so Ill have the dealer adjust.
Thanks to all of you for your help!
Green Dragon
New member
I purchased this Spyder brand new from a dealer in Woodbridge, VA. Within 24 hours, there was a problem with the rear shock/airbag. The dealer "found nothing" and said there was no problem. So I continued to ride the Spyder. The rear airbag continued to loose pressure and I had to constantly add air into it. Over the course of filling the airbag and then going on a 3 hour ride, the rear would give a really big metallic clunk when going over small (and large) bumps. Then I started having issues with the radio...audio problems. Since "there was no problem" according to the Woodbrige dealer, I took the Spyder to a dealer in Fredericksburg, VA. THEY FOUND that the rear airbag/shock assembly was defective from the manufacture and was loosing air. This was covered under warranty. They also tweaked the radio. They also replaced the recalled gas cap. After this replaced gas cap issue, I was riding on a hot day when I pulled into a gas station to get gas. I could not remove the gas cap. So I called the Fredericksburg dealer. He said I needed to wait till the bike cooled down since the gas was "boiling" and this was why I couldnt remove the cap. So I got some cold water (1 gallon) and poured it over the gas tank. This cooled the bike down enough that the gas stopped boiling and I could get the cap off and get refueled.
Then I started having problems very soon with the parking break cable. It was kinked and slightly melted. I took it to a different dealer in Ruckersville, VA, just to get a different view on things. My bike had only 8000 miles on it and just went out of warranty. So, I purchased the cable and replaced it myself. Everything worked well. Four days later, the cable kinked and melted again. Another new cable was installed by me. When I installed it, I noticed that old cable was not only kinked and melted, but the read switch had also broken. I took this then to the Ruckersville dealer. They put on a new cable (the second one I installed kinked and melted again in that short time) and replaced the read switch. I didnt get 10 miles away from the dealer when I stopped to get gas and the 4th cable the dealer just installed kinked. 10 miles. The dealer took care of the cable (it was a defective cable from the manufacturer).
All was good for a short time. Then this past January, I took the bike back to the Ruckersville (the Spyder was out of warranty) because the bike wouldnt go into reverse at all and shifting was extremely hard. They replaced the hydraulic seal. They said the seal was leaking (bad) and had to be replaced. This repair was out of my pocket ($600 o so). Now, 300 miles later, the same problem...reverse switch doesnt work and shifting is hard. A different repair of the clutch/reverse assembly. Now they have to replace the reverse switch and all the wiring that controls it. Between parts and labor, the bill is just under $900.
So now I complain to BRP. They opened up a case. They will "discuss" this with the dealer. So now I sit and wait. No riding again this weekend. My Spyder has less than 11K miles on it. This REALLY seems to be a LEMON. Now I am concerned about if it is safe to ride.
Then I started having problems very soon with the parking break cable. It was kinked and slightly melted. I took it to a different dealer in Ruckersville, VA, just to get a different view on things. My bike had only 8000 miles on it and just went out of warranty. So, I purchased the cable and replaced it myself. Everything worked well. Four days later, the cable kinked and melted again. Another new cable was installed by me. When I installed it, I noticed that old cable was not only kinked and melted, but the read switch had also broken. I took this then to the Ruckersville dealer. They put on a new cable (the second one I installed kinked and melted again in that short time) and replaced the read switch. I didnt get 10 miles away from the dealer when I stopped to get gas and the 4th cable the dealer just installed kinked. 10 miles. The dealer took care of the cable (it was a defective cable from the manufacturer).
All was good for a short time. Then this past January, I took the bike back to the Ruckersville (the Spyder was out of warranty) because the bike wouldnt go into reverse at all and shifting was extremely hard. They replaced the hydraulic seal. They said the seal was leaking (bad) and had to be replaced. This repair was out of my pocket ($600 o so). Now, 300 miles later, the same problem...reverse switch doesnt work and shifting is hard. A different repair of the clutch/reverse assembly. Now they have to replace the reverse switch and all the wiring that controls it. Between parts and labor, the bill is just under $900.
So now I complain to BRP. They opened up a case. They will "discuss" this with the dealer. So now I sit and wait. No riding again this weekend. My Spyder has less than 11K miles on it. This REALLY seems to be a LEMON. Now I am concerned about if it is safe to ride.
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