First issue with my 2013 ST!! Arrrggghhh!!!

[commanderjb]

I haven't ridden the bike in a little over two weeks. I haven't had any issues until today. Wanted to ride it to work this morning. Started up on the first crank, idled for about 5 minutes while I got my stuff together to take to work. Hopped on the bike (garage kept), took it out of park, put the clutch in and shifted into first gear on my way to reverse - bike lurched a little and died!! Put it back in neutral and tried it again - same results! Any thoughts on what the issue might be???

 

[Flamewinger]

Check oil level. Follow owners manual to do it right. Then you might check the linkage. If they're all good it could be an electrical issue. Battery good?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[commanderjb]

Check oil level. Follow owners manual to do it right. Then you might check the linkage. If they're all good it could be an electrical issue. Battery good?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Battery is fine. Started up on the first crank and no problems when I started it again.

 

[Flamewinger]

Just because the battery cranked fine doesn't mean it's good or the charging system either. Remember, the Spyder are controlled electronically, so when shifting goes wrong and oil/linkage is good then what else could it be?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[commanderjb]

Just because the battery cranked fine doesn't mean it's good or the charging system either. Remember, the Spyder are controlled electronically, so when shifting goes wrong and oil/linkage is good then what else could it be?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So test the battery? What should it read?

 

[Chupaca]

Well....

Sounds like the clutch plates are sticking. Check oil level and let it warm up to operating temp or till the fan kicks in. Then you may have to try a few times even if it jerks and dies. Sometimes a push to start rolling and then put it in second and ryde a bit to get the oil in there...Let us know how it goes...:thumbup:

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

I haven't ridden the bike in a little over two weeks. I haven't had any issues until today. Wanted to ride it to work this morning. Started up on the first crank, idled for about 5 minutes while I got my stuff together to take to work. Hopped on the bike (garage kept), took it out of park, put the clutch in and shifted into first gear on my way to reverse - bike lurched a little and died!! Put it back in neutral and tried it again - same results! Any thoughts on what the issue might be???

SM5, right? I don't personally have an SM5, but there's a lot of history on here about the clutch piston o-rings breaking down over time, loss of clutch fluid, etc, which generally causes inability of the clutch to fully disengage when you pull it in. Seems like that's related to what you have. O ring kits are easily obtained.

How did it feel? Clutch fluid level normal?

 

[commanderjb]

SM5, right? I don't personally have an SM5, but there's a lot of history on here about the clutch piston o-rings breaking down over time, loss of clutch fluid, etc, which generally causes inability of the clutch to fully disengage when you pull it in. Seems like that's related to what you have. O ring kits are easily obtained.

How did it feel? Clutch fluid level normal?

I didn't notice any difference when I engaged theclutch. Iwill have t ocheck the fluid levels when I get back home from work. No leakage evident on the garage floor.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

I didn't notice any difference when I engaged theclutch. Iwill have t ocheck the fluid levels when I get back home from work. No leakage evident on the garage floor.

There are plenty of members on here that have done that repair on the clutch - if that's indeed what it is - that can help you through that. It's not a big deal. But, based on how you described it in your first post, that's the first thing that came to mind.

 

[ingramwc]

Spyders have a wet clutch, the clutch and the engine share the same oil, if oil level is low it will definitely affect the clutch. I have an SE5 and if my oil level is low the tranny does not shift smoothly!!!! I would think that similar affect on a SM5. The V-twin does consume some oil between changes, it operates at higher RPMs which is the main reason for the oil usage.
I hope oil level is the only thing wrong!!!:thumbup:

 

[billybovine]

I will 2nd the low clutch fluid. It is a 2013. So if it has been well maintained the clutch fluid should has been changed twice by now. It takes DOT 4 brake fluid as the clutch fluid. So pick some up on the way home from work.

It does not matter how much engine oil is in it either. That applies to a SE5 only.

 

[youngers]

i did the clutch on a 2012

just type in : 2012 clutch youngers : it should pop up in search area , with photo`s { if this is what you are having problems with , I bought mine used ,5,000 miles on it , think it was from the long life of sitting unused I guess ... you could see where the O - rings rolled and caused the leak } it really wasn`t a bad repair , just time consuming , about 2 full days taking my time not too rush through , the repair , as it was my first dig into the new to me cycle ... now you mentioned easy start , but died when engaged clutch too roll ,, could it be , the brakes ,or parking brakes are still engaged ? there have been a couple of links on that topic also ! good luck in texas ! dang lucky guy ! 70 degree weather and all ... hope this is one of the easy fixes

 

[commanderjb]

SM5, right? I don't personally have an SM5, but there's a lot of history on here about the clutch piston o-rings breaking down over time, loss of clutch fluid, etc, which generally causes inability of the clutch to fully disengage when you pull it in. Seems like that's related to what you have. O ring kits are easily obtained.

How did it feel? Clutch fluid level normal?

So I have not been able to do anything with the bike until this past weekend. The bike was stuck in first gear so I couldn't eve nstart it. There was no resisitance on the clutch lever. I checked the fluid level in the reservoir and it was just about empty. I added Dot 4 fluid, closed it back up and still no resistance. I was able to get the pedal back into neutral and it started right up. But once I kick it into 1st gear it jerks and dies. The oil level is fine. So it seems like a clutch issue.

 

[Bfromla]

My two wheeler had clutch lock up after sitting 6months (I was stuck in hospital) if you can crank & run in reverse for a bit make sure there is movement then maybe jack up rear tire & then try first,:dontknow: Note it will not last long as the nanny :lecturef_smilie: will see front tires not moving but may let you move thru gears to make sure tranny not froze :sour:

Good luck

 

[safecracker]

If your clutch fluid is low, really low then you may need to bleed the clutch line. I have to add a little fluid every year. I have over 50,000 miles.on my Spyder, clutch still works like it should. Bruce

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Agree. Your clutch itself is most likely just fine. No resistance in your clutch lever indicates that the master cylinder there on your handlebars is unable to produce the hydraulic pressure required to operate the clutch. Something either needing repairs in the MC or air got in the line due to low level in that little reservoir. Not a major repair. But, if you want to turn this problem over to your dealer, any competent dealer should have a trailer and can come and pick it up. Good luck. You'll be back riding soon.

 

[commanderjb]

Agree. Your clutch itself is most likely just fine. No resistance in your clutch lever indicates that the master cylinder there on your handlebars is unable to produce the hydraulic pressure required to operate the clutch. Something either needing repairs in the MC or air got in the line due to low level in that little reservoir. Not a major repair. But, if you want to turn this problem over to your dealer, any competent dealer should have a trailer and can come and pick it up. Good luck. You'll be back riding soon.

Opened up the clutch reservoir and here is what it looks like. The rubber gasket is all jacked up.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

That's really just a standard bellows type cover gasket. The idea is that as the fluid level goes down, the rubber unfolds itself and extends down into the reservoir to prevent the fluid from sloshing, foaming, and generally entraining air. They don't always extend evenly. The gaskets in your brake reservoir caps are of the same principle. Just push that gasket back up into the lid and it should try to refold itself to the original shape the best it can - it doesn't have to be perfect - and top off your reservoir, and put the lid on.

Not to rule out other things, but I think the most probable cause of your problem is simply that the reservoir level was't serviced for an extended period of time and that you just have air in the line. I've never bled the clutch line as I don't have the SM5. The manual calls for a vacuum type rig to be used. A dealer would have all that. Perhaps someone who has done it at home can weigh in on a home brew way to get you going again. Good luck with it.