Firefly question....

[wyliec]

I believe you said you sometimes pressed the 'M' button to clear the scrolling message on startup only to have it return after your spyder started. Last year I had the same problem and they replaced the board in Nov. It was okay for the month I drove before putting the spyder to sleep for the winter and it's been okay since I started riding again in March this year. Now it constantly requires a second press of the 'M' once the spyder is started. Did you ever find out what was wrong with your spyder?

I don't think it's worth paying $50 under the BEST warranty just so I don't have to press the 'M' a second time. So, unless you've found your problem, I guess I'll just let it be.

All fuses and relays have been re-seated and the battery connections checked including the ground under the seat.:dontknow:

 

[jvicker]

I never use the "M" button. I always use the switch on the handle bars.:thumbup:

 

[wyliec]

I never use the "M" button. I always use the switch on the handle bars.:thumbup:

The switch on the handlebar is also an 'M' button. It doesn't matter which one I use. I still have to press it twice; once before​ the spyder starts and once afterwards.

 

[NancysToy]

Did you check the connector to the cluster?

 

[wyliec]

Did you check the connector to the cluster?

I'll try that tomorrow.

Thanks

 

[MrBones]

Just got my Spyder but the P.O. told me to press the grip M button twice before starting. So yours sounds fine by me. Also tried only one press and did not work so will live with the two press thingy. In my eyes not a biggy.

 

[wyliec]

Just got my Spyder but the P.O. told me to press the grip M button twice before starting. So yours sounds fine by me. Also tried only one press and did not work so will live with the two press thingy. In my eyes not a biggy.

MrBones,

I press it once to start; then, once the spyder starts, the scrolling message appears again and a second press is req'd whether from the handlebar or dash. It sounds to me that you are pressing your M button twice before starting the spyder.

It's not a biggy yet; but, the problem is it went from one press; then, it went to two presses intermittently; and now it's 2 presses consistently. Electrical problems don't get better; they get worse.

I'm going to check the connection like Scotty suggested. If that doesn't help, I'll leave it be until it gets worse.

 

[wyliec]

MrBones,

Update: I just tried your method. I pressed the handlebar mode button twice in succession. Then, I started the spyder. It started and the scrolling message did not reappear. A little later I'll try with the 'M' button on the dash.:dontknow:

 

[mooneych]

I never use the "M" button. I always use the switch on the handle bars.:thumbup:

You can use the "M" button? :roflblack:

 

[wyliec]

Okay MrBones,

2nd update: Pressed the 'M' button on the dash twice in succession and the spyder started and no scrolling message.

 

[Firefly]

Mine still does it from time to time....exactly as you've stated wylec. Have to press it again to get rid of message. Hasn't been doing it lately. Never had it checked.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[docdoru]

Had the same problem on the RS. Since I change the battery and did the latest (2012) updates. Cured for now. :doorag:

 

[wyliec]

Had the same problem on the RS. Since I change the battery and did the latest (2012) updates. Cured for now. :doorag:

What are the 2012 updates?

The battery is a PC680 with its specific charger and is less than 1 year old. I checked the connections and all is tight. I also checked the connection to the cluster and it was fine.

Unless you can point me to a specific 2012 update to take to my dealer, I'll just have to press twice and click my heels once.

 

[Fire Joe]

I believe you said you sometimes pressed the 'M' button to clear the scrolling message on startup only to have it return after your spyder started. Last year I had the same problem and they replaced the board in Nov. It was okay for the month I drove before putting the spyder to sleep for the winter and it's been okay since I started riding again in March this year. Now it constantly requires a second press of the 'M' once the spyder is started. Did you ever find out what was wrong with your spyder?

I don't think it's worth paying $50 under the BEST warranty just so I don't have to press the 'M' a second time. So, unless you've found your problem, I guess I'll just let it be.

All fuses and relays have been re-seated and the battery connections checked including the ground under the seat.:dontknow:

Not sure if this is of any help but thought I would mention it. I went through this exact problem last year only mine was worse because soon after having to press the MODE button for a 2nd time to clear the 2nd scrolling message after my Spyder was already started, the problem culminated with a dead Spyder... as in it wouldn't start, turn over or anything. Twice it left me stranded and needing a tow. The culprit in my case were the 2 different sets of HID headlights I tried to use. Seems the cluster in my Spyder doesn't like to play well with aftermarket HID kits for some reason. Took out the HIDs, replaced the headlight bulbs with Silverstars and all was well from then on.

 

[wyliec]

The HIDs I have had been in over 2 years before the problem started. However, that doesn't mean it can't be a ballast. If I were to replace a ballast, I have a few questions:

1. Is all the info I need written on the ballast.

2. Can just a ballast be replaced.

3. Are the connections uniform across manufacturers?

4. Is there a preferred manufacturer?

Fire Joe,

Where did you purchase the Silverstars bulbs and how do they compare to stock? Also, which number did you use? I just looked them up and there are a few.

Also, I purchased the HID kit from ESI. The HID bulbs in that kit (and maybe any HID bulbs) required some tang in the stock bulb holder/socket to be bent. I'm wondering if the Silverstars will require the tang to be bent back. I know each time you bend metal it weakens it and I don't want to break the bulb socket/holder.

 

[wyliec]

I'm thinking of disconnecting both ballasts and seeing if that corrects the problem. Or, will that create another problem, like the spyder not starting?

I don't plan on riding without headlights; I'm just going to idle the spyder.

 

[Dwanton]

Myself and a friend went through an issue with HID lights on our 2011 Can Am Renegades . Seems that Can Ams set up cannot handle the HID lamps . The machine would just cut out while riding , or the machine would go into limp mode , or the lights would just go out .
If you took he HID's out everything would work fine , put them back in and same problems .

This is why I won't put HID lamp set up on my spyder . My dealer friend called me last week with a huge discounted price on a set of factory OEM HID set up for the spyder and I said thank you but no thanks .

I hope you figure the issue out !

 

[Fire Joe]

The HIDs I have had been in over 2 years before the problem started. However, that doesn't mean it can't be a ballast. If I were to replace a ballast, I have a few questions:

1. Is all the info I need written on the ballast.

2. Can just a ballast be replaced.

3. Are the connections uniform across manufacturers?

4. Is there a preferred manufacturer?

Fire Joe,

Where did you purchase the Silverstars bulbs and how do they compare to stock? Also, which number did you use? I just looked them up and there are a few.

Also, I purchased the HID kit from ESI. The HID bulbs in that kit (and maybe any HID bulbs) required some tang in the stock bulb holder/socket to be bent. I'm wondering if the Silverstars will require the tang to be bent back. I know each time you bend metal it weakens it and I don't want to break the bulb socket/holder.

The ones I used are Silverstars Ultra H7. They are much better than stock specially at night but do not compare to HIDs. The way it was explained to me was the frequency from the ballasts wasn't communicating well with the ECM in my Spyder causing the double scrolling message and eventually the no start issue. I can't remember the code but it threw some code with the HIDs hooked up. It was a code related to the DESS module I believe. I have tried the HID kit from ESI and Xenon Depot and again both were a no go for my Spyder. If you unhook your HIDs the Spyder will still start. It was one of the ways the tech at Cowtown diagnosed my issue. He unhooked the HIDs and DESS error code went away and the Spyder started up with no issues whatsoever.

I was assured that the BRP factory HID will work no problem since the frequency in the ballasts are 100% compatible with the ECM of the Spyder but at nearly $1K, I will gladly stick with the Silverstars.

Hope this all helps.

Oh, forgot to say that I got the Silverstars at O'Reilly's. I am sure almost all major auto parts store will have them.

 

[Firefly]

Talk to kb Carstuff / xenon depot about getting a new ballast. Their units are just like the ESI ones. Probably cheaper to just buy a new kit from them and the. Have 2 extra bulbs and ballasts.