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Finally giving into peer pressure

blacklightning

Well-known member
As the title says, I am finally giving into pier pressure. I have resisted upgrading the sway bar on my RT, my RSS, and even my F3T. But I have noticed that when riding 2 up, there is some dipping in the corners. I rarely ride 2 up, but I am thinking that going with this upgrade will help even when solo. I have ridden with people with the sway bar before and tend to stay ahead and leave them even stock. That is probably just due to my "pushing it to the limit" ways:doorag:. But we will wait and see what happens now with this upgrade.
 
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I know you like spirited riding in the twisties. So do I. The bar did make an improvement, but it wasn't as noticeable as the car tires and shock adjusters I also run. Improvement? Yes, but don't expect trumpets to sound and angels to sing. I found the best improvement from the sway bar to be on the freeway. Spyder tracks better and is much less affected by trucks and side winds.
 
Well, I got the sway bar in yesterday and installed it today. From start to finish took me about 3 hours. About 1/2 of that was getting the bike set up and anchored on the trailer and getting my tools together. Not very hard at all. I am thinking about taking a ride to Winston Salem tomorrow (about 4 hours round trip). That will atleast give me an idea of how it will handle on the interstate. Maybe I will get a chance to try it out on some curves this weekend. There wasn't as much difference in the size of the bars as I thought there would be, but I guess I was expecting too much. Now I am curious as to what they look like on a RT, since it is supposed to be larger than the one on the F3, but smaller than the Bajaron bar.
 
The size of the RT andRon bar are similar, but it's not the size it's the type of material that makes it perform.
 
The size of the RT andRon bar are similar, but it's not the size it's the type of material that makes it perform.

You are correct. The space provided for the sway bar on a Spyder is limited. The RT Bar is about as big as you can go and still be able to install it easily. Fortunately, we are not stuck with diameter alone when determining sway bar stiffness. Using the right materials. You can actually get a stiffer sway bar with a smaller diameter, depending on the materials used.

There is a 3rd aspect of a sway bar that affects stiffness. But it doesn't really come into play with the 2013+ models.

Diameter is only 1 aspect of overall strength and function of a sway bar. In fact, my 2008-2012 GS/RS/RSS bar is the same diameter as stock. You just can't go by diameter alone. I even had one customer return this particular bar kit without even trying it. He said it would be ridiculous to install an identical bar. And, if you go by looks alone, it is identical to the stock bar on the early RS models. I was not able to convince him that diameter is not an accurate way to estimate strength. You would have to know the metallurgy (or do a physical test) to determine strength differences.

There are several spring steel compounds, from relatively weak to very strong. Most sway bars are made with weak spring steel. The weaker steel is much easier to bend and drill. And because you usually have no space limitations with most applications, you just go bigger with the less expensive steel compound. This is what I would do if I could get the needed stiffness and still have a bar small enough to install easily. My fabricator actually ended up buying a much bigger press to be able to bend my bars.

My sway bars are made with spring steel which is just 1 step down from the strongest bar stock. We tried the stiffest one, but it was so stiff that bending it disrupted the molecular bond at the bend. This would cause the bar to fail, eventually. I still tested this bar compound and found it too stiff anyway. A too stiff sway bar is not safe.

A sway bar is a very simple, yet complicated suspension component. Which, unfortunately, makes for some misconceptions.
 
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With that title, I thought you were finally buying a boat. :dontknow:

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:clap: Thanks for catching that. When working with computers most of the day, sometimes you just have to sit (I didn't say sat;)) back and read over to make sure things are correct. Just because a word isn't misspelled, doesn't mean it it used correctly. Thanks Again:thumbup:
 
How did you lift it? My bar is arriving today
I am still hesitant on lifting my spyder that high on a jack. So I pulled my trailer onto a set of car ramps (didn't want all that weight on my truck tailgate) to raise the rear. Then I used a set of 6' loading ramps. Then just drive the bike up the ramps. I am impressed at the parking brake holding things into place. But I didn't trust it. So I blocked the wheels and also used straps to tie the bike off to the front of the trailer. I also tied the ramps off to the trailer so that they would not slip off.
BTW, I pulled the bike further forward after taking this picture to relieve some of the weight from the ramps.
 

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