docdoru
Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
No, just get ready for a new hub next time you change bearings. :doorag:
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Fearing the worst... please tell me I'm wrong..
- Thread starter SpyderGirl
- Start date
SpyderGirl
New member
LOL! Good. No problem. I thought maybe it was something bad.
I also found that I am going to need to do the rear brake pads when I get back from Arizona and SoCal.
Firefly
Active member
That springy loop thing is part of the seal assembly--- your new ones had them in already-- they just pop out when you're removing the seals.
I really don't know what would cause that Hub bearing to go bad that quickly again. Bad install? Bad belt tension? Bad bearing from China?
Rear wheel axle = 96 lbf*ft
SpyderGirl
New member
Okay, great, thanks guys! I hope the road test goes smoothly. 
Raptor
New member
Or any combination of the three. Bad quality bearing from China goes to number one on my list. I think the Lodi folks did the work and She has had good luck with those guys so the install is probably good. Belt ternsion? a possibility...
BTW, the info on "that springy loop thing" is a good thing to know! :roflblack: Sorry man, that just hit me as funny. But seriously, it's good to know!
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SpyderWolf
New member
Glad to hear you were able to get it taken care of before your trip. :thumbup:
Raptor
New member
Explain to me why you are harping on the hub. Is this something you have experience with? I just want to understand the relationships here...
SpyderFun
New member
Let me see if I can shed some light on this.
A bearing has an inner race (where the axle or bolt goes thru) and an outer race (the part that gets pressed into the hub or the next higher assembly). The inner race moves while the outer race remains stationary. Between them are the bearings (needle, roller, ball, etc) that allow this rotational movement.
Now if the outer race EVER begins to move or spin, then it has the potential of wearing out the surface it has been pressed into. In this case, the hub, has the potential to get out of its "roundness".
Lamont's video shows "slop" at the outer race area which is NOT normal (any slop there = immediate fix). 2 ways of fixing this kind of wear if it is severe enough. 1) replace bearing with an "oversize" bearing or 2) rework the surface area and install a race sleeve. I am not saying these are approved procedures but, this is the only way short of buying a new major assembly that I know of.
Bearings have 2 different "plays" to check for. One is radial (side to side) and the other is axial (in and out). Normal wear will have some slop or play. How much can you have BEFORE it must be replaced is the question. I am sure it is in the maintenance manual somewhere so I will not speak out on that limit.
A good practice, though not required, is to use a liquid bearing sealer around the outer race so when it is pressed in it dries and acts like a bonding agent between the two surfaces preventing a "spun race".
Hope this helped and sorry for the length.
Ride Smart ~ Ride Safe,
-Mike
SpyderGirl
New member
Thank you for that detailed information. The hub / bearing relationship looked fine when I took it all apart last night. I just got back from a 10 minute road test and the belt seems to be good. We are just about packed and will be going to be here soon.
Thank you everyone who helped me out! :clap: :2thumbs:
Thank you everyone who helped me out! :clap: :2thumbs:
Firefly
Active member
Thank you for that detailed information. The hub / bearing relationship looked fine when I took it all apart last night. I just got back from a 10 minute road test and the belt seems to be good. We are just about packed and will be going to be here soon.
Thank you everyone who helped me out! :clap: :2thumbs:
Have a great trip and keep us posted on how the bike is running!:2thumbs:
SpyderGirl
New member
Thanks all! :2thumbs:
dancogan
New member
:2thumbs: I'm really impressed with your repair. Have a great trip.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
Good information, Mike. I have extracted only this small portion, for comment.
:agree: Preventing the bearings from turning in the race (in this case the hub) is also the reason bearing should be installed dry, unless otherwise specified. Greasing bearings to allow them to be inserted more easily is usually a big mistake! If there is a close fit or interference fit, heating the race side and cooling the bearing may be necessary, as may the use of a press for installation.
musicarcade
New member
SpyderGirl
New member
We're 80 miles into the trip and all is well.
groundeffect
Registered User
:thumbup:
Lamonster
SpyderLovers Founder
I've had pretty good luck through the years using a center punch to expand the race surface area and then using loctite on the bearing race. This is a real common problem when alloy wheels that are chromed and that's what we do to fix them.
By the way the hub was a lot cheaper than I thought it would be if you ever do have to replace it. List price is only $96 bucks and they sell a few bucks cheaper than that.
Raptor
New member
This was an excellent explanation. Thank you very much for taking the time to write it up in such good detail. I get it now! Given that many of these parts are Aluminium alloy it's no wonder Doc was pointing it out. Again, information such as this is what makes this site special to all of us Spyder Riders, new and experienced alike. :thumbup:
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