• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Fans running a lot??

Light from a hand held LED flashlight easily shines through the radiator fins. They were thoroughly cleaned( and not very dirty at all) when I had the frunk off 2 years ago and get checked at each oil change. BUT they haven't been closely checked this season. I'll do that next.

Thanks, Lew L

EDIT: The fins are clean . We don't get the bugs like many other parts of the country. Will check for damaged wires when I'm deeper into the :spyder2:doing the pump R&R( I do try to keep the mice in check with traps and poison now that I don't have the dogs.
 
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New pump installed. AND dripping coolant:gaah: Not from the 4 hose connections but it seems where the pump attaches to the block. So I'll be draining out the coolant, undoing the hoses, and refitting the pump. Any suggestions from a member who has actually R&R the coolant pump on a 1330 motor would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Lew L
 
NOTICE To prevent leaking, take care that the gaskets are exactly in groove when you reinstall the water pump module. Tighten screws to specification .

There is a torque sequence.

1: Lower middle
2: Right lower
3:Left lower
4:Right upper
5: Left upper.

11 N•m ± 1 N•m
(97 lbf•in± 9 lbf•in)

Manual says use engine oil on the gaskets
 
NOTICE To prevent leaking, take care that the gaskets are exactly in groove when you reinstall the water pump module. Tighten screws to specification .

There is a torque sequence.

1: Lower middle
2: Right lower
3:Left lower
4:Right upper
5: Left upper.

11 N•m ± 1 N•m
(97 lbf•in± 9 lbf•in)

Manual says use engine oil on the gaskets


A fellow Spyder lover sent me the manual section for the coolant pump R&R. It said to use motor oil on the thrust bearing. I'll reread it for gasket prep.

ANd yes it did say to lube the gaskets with motor oil --- I do like high vacuum silicone grease though.
 
A fellow Spyder lover sent me the manual section for the coolant pump R&R. It said to use motor oil on the thrust bearing. I'll reread it for gasket prep.

ANd yes it did say to lube the gaskets with motor oil --- I do like high vacuum silicone grease though.


Before installation lubricate: – Water pump shaft – Washers – Axial needle bearing – O-ring.
 
Hope you haven't pinched the ring!!

. New pump removed, no crushed O-ring and other washer in place. There is the bleeder "plug" that nobody has mentioned in the last 30 or so replies. It falls out easily. It was fine also. No crushed anything ( except my right arm). Every washer and bearing is now lubed. I'll wiggle the pump back in place and tighten to spec.

Sure would like to here from someone who has actually replaced a waterpump on a 1330????
 
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Sure would like to here from someone who has actually replaced a waterpump on a 1330????

I think you're the pioneer Lew. Hence the morbid curiosity.

Have you dismantled the old pump yet, to inspect for evidence of failure?
 
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I think you're the pioneer Lew. Hence the morbid curiosity.

Have you dismantled the old pump yet, to inspect for evidence of failure?

Yes, both the impeller and the drive gear are fine. Think we are down to the thermostat.
 
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Yes, it's back together, let it sit overnight to see if there were any visible leaks. But I am waiting a bit------ If it leaks like it did before I may break out the sledgehammer------- In 30 minutes are so.

I referred to a"bleeder plug" in an earlier post------ I can't find it anywhere on the parts diagrams. I may pull the pump again and remove it from where I "thought it came from" THe gasket has a 1/2" hole on the upper right for the bleeder hole. It fit in there. ( the #4 in the parts diagram is pointing to the hole)
 
What bleeder plug are you referring too?

Does it attach to the bleeder hose nipple?

No, sure doesn't seem like it. as I said, it doesn't show on any diagram I've seen. That hose nipple attaches to a hose back to the coolant tank. It's one of the 4 hoses that attach to the pump. I'm referring to the small hole in the block and its larger hole in the gasket. The "plug" that I'm speaking of fits nicely into the water pump at that point on the upper right of the main gasket.

As I've started the :spyder2: and it is now leaking from the front upper quadrant of the pump housing( as you are looking at it on the motor)-------- I'll be removing it yet again ( I'm getting far to good at this) I'll leave this mystery "plug" out this time though. You All will get a pix of it . I'll search the motor drawings from cheapcycleparts.com for this mystery part.
 
If its the bleeder fitting the smallest hose fitting on the pump then that goes to the hose to the top of the coolant tank. I dont think there is a plug at all that I can tell.

I have my bike apart and looked into that area a bit ago.

I have to look again and try to see it??
 
All I see is a gasket and a O ring on that pump no plug . Its a One piece gasket that also goes around the bleeder hole.

The O ring looks separate.
 
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