fans in frunk

[cuznjohn]

i was thinking last night and as most of you know by now i don't sleep and when i think it starts trouble. first, do you think if we changed the anti freeze to a high temp anti freeze like ENGINEICE http://www.amazon.com/Engine-Ice-TYDS008-Performance-Coolant/dp/B000H01NFY to help with the high heat. than i was thinking i don't travel and if i put a radiator fan in the frunk facing the engine and ducted two 4 inch dryer exhaust hoses into the front of the frunk to come on with a relay when the radiator fan comes on, do you think it will help the cooling of the motor under the Tupperware.

my other thought was if there was enough room around the outside of the frunk than two inline small fans mounted to the sides of the frunk with the same dryer hoses hooked to them and a switch that we could mount to keep them on when in traffic or when we feel we need them. what i am not sure of is, do we have enough power on the bike to do something like this. just a thought and would like some NICE ideas on this.

 

[Bob Denman]

John,
I kind of like your idea... :thumbup:
If you could put a couple of openings in the nosecone of the RT; it should allow for more airflow around the frunk (assuming that the clearance is sufficient...). Adding fains of each side would help at lower speeds, or stop 'n go traffic situations too!
Just check on your clearances before getting out the SawZall... :thumbup:

 

[cuznjohn]

openings

there are two openings in the front of the bike as vents where the 14's are going to have the 2 radiators so there is air flow when moving

 

[Bob Denman]

The problem is; that air doesn't get sent back under the bodywork... :shocked:
You need to get inboard of those openings... :thumbup:

 

[CyncySpyder]

there are two openings in the front of the bike as vents where the 14's are going to have the 2 radiators so there is air flow when moving

The problem is; that air doesn't get sent back under the bodywork... :shocked:
You need to get inboard of those openings... :thumbup:

With the tupperware removed, you can clearly see, while these are considered air-ducts, they only bring air as far as the radiators on each side, not into the engine area to help disipate the heat build up

 

[Bob Denman]

Dave,
How much room is there right along the frunk? (About where your horn is sitting...)
Could a couple of openings up front, allow sirflow through that area of the bike? :dontknow:

 

[bscrive]

John,

I still think that the mod that Phil did on his RT, putting a fan in one of the lower pans, is the best thing right now to cut down on the heat. This mod would not cost much to do and would remove most of the heat from the engine compartment. The fan is $82 and some time to hook it up. Take a look at it on the 'My Spyder Mods' section.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?24907-Phil-s-Mods/page9


If you were not so far away I would do the work for you for free.

 

[bluestratos]

I use engine ice, it cools better than conventional antifreeze which was proven by an immediate drop on my engine temp bar graph. This means there is more heat, not less being removed from the block so it actually makes the air coming out of the rad that much hotter.

The vents as Dave said, only supply the radiators with cool air and are effectively cut off from the engine compartment by the rads. If you remove the stock air box and put on the one from Kewlmetal it will allow a lot more air to make it to the engine which is good for the engine and some have said does lower the hot air that gets to our body parts.

I am a bit skeptical, it seems to me if you pull more heat off the block it has to go somewhere which is under the seat and gas tank as well as any opening it can find. This has been proven to me by the change to the Corbin seat which has a gas door. The hot air that is forced out around the door is so hot I burned my inner thigh last summer in Reno while driving on the highway.

I have my bike torn apart now and have installed thermal blanketing on all of the body panels and in the process of creating a shield from it (thermal blanket) that runs under the dash (above the air cleaner) then down and below the gas tank. This will take the hot air and duct it out below the tank.

This will remove the radiant heat and the heat that is pressurized up and under the seat but there is still a lot of heat remaining and I had to think out of the box. One way to reduce the heat is to make the engine run a bit richer so I am adding a Magnum Tuner. This will also compensate for my other changes (performance air cleaner, Akraprovic exhaust and eliminating the cat).

Finally, one of the greatest contributes to heat is the exhaust itself so I have removed and carefully heat wrapped all the pipes back to the exhaust. I was able to test this on the bench by using my industrial heat gun to force dry the wet fiberglass wrap. I positioned the heat gut so it blew into the pipe and set it to the max.. I believe it is 1800 degrees. The wet wrap started to steam and while drying the surface was actually boiling. When it stopped steaming I could grab the pipe bare handed and move to my paint area the minute I pulled the heat gun out. It was hot but try that with a bare pipe, lol.

I have built a fan can as well to take the rad air and force it away from the body panels and to the left and down under the bike. The last thing I may try is to install a bilge blower as Dave has done to help remove the hot air at idle. He draws in cooler ambient air and blows it into the engine bay. I am thinking this through now as I get ready to button the bike back up.

 

[johnwinslow]

John,

I still think that the mod that Phil did on his RT, putting a fan in one of the lower pans, is the best thing right now to cut down on the heat. This mod would not cost much to do and would remove most of the heat from the engine compartment. The fan is $82 and some time to hook it up. Take a look at it on the 'My Spyder Mods' section.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?24907-Phil-s-Mods/page9


If you were not so far away I would do the work for you for free.

come on it is only 460 miles and on your way to florida:roflblack:

 

[Bob Denman]

I use engine ice, it cools better than conventional antifreeze which was proven by an immediate drop on my engine temp bar graph.

:agree: It's real good stuff.. :thumbup: I used it in a seriously tinkered-with ATV, that spent most of it's life in the deep mud with the radiator so caked up with goo, that you couldn't even SEE it! :shocked: nojoke

 

[CyncySpyder]

FWIW: Here's my OPINION

Dave, How much room is there right along the frunk? (About where your horn is sitting...)
Could a couple of openings up front, allow sirflow through that area of the bike? :dontknow:

We have a 2011 RT-S, so I can only speak in terms of what I know, & as we all know, the 2013s have the new Frame, so things are 'squished' together and arranged underneath the tupperware a little differently than the previous model years. In my personal experience with having Teds Red Sled stripped down as much as we have, it appears most of the air-flow from the Frunk area forward of the Engine-Bay/Radiators is pretty much stopped at the radiators. That's why when we installed our in-line blower mod, I placed the intake at the top of the Elka Shock as seen here in this pic.


:lecturef_smilie:A couple words of caution I believe are in order here and those words are pps: UnInteded Consequences pps:

Regardless of the year of RT (new frame or old) if a person was to just go about ADDING more air-flow INTO the Engine Bay in its stock configuration, I would be worried about more air getting heated AND TRAPPED under the tupperware, possibly leading to an even worse problem than owners are dealing with in the first place. The OEM Air-Box/Resonator is massive in size and blocks much of the air from circulating in the engine-bay area, which personally, I think is one of the major contributing factors to the Heat Build-Up problem in the first place.


No doubt, more air-flow seems like it would be a good thing, but I think you also have to have a way of helping that air to circulate and be able to disipate out from under the tupperware, which is seriously lacking on most (if not all) RTs in general. That's why along with adding our In-Line Blower I also added a smaller fan to the top engine bay vent to help the heated air to escape from under the tupperware.

I'm NOT suggesting any-one to do what we've done, and I understand most ppl don't want to remove something as critical as the OEM Air-Intake due to all the possible warranty implications. But I think its pretty simple, More Air IN= More Air OUT - Otherwise it will just make matters much worse than they are to start with.

Bob, I hope this answers your question. If not, the simple answer is NO, I don't think there's enough room under the Frunk Tupperware to add a fan/blower & if you were able to, the air-flow (without being ducted) would be stopped at the radiators before reaching the Engine Bay area where its really needed. Of course, this is just my personal opinion...

 

[Bob Denman]

Thanks for this valuable input, Dave! :2thumbs:
Personally; I think it's pretty cool that folks are stepping up with useful input, when somebody pitches an idea out for discussion!! :clap:
Adding experience, theory, know-how, and a bit of faith together; will beat thiw for SURE!

 

[bscrive]

come on it is only 460 miles and on your way to florida:roflblack:

Unfortunately, I am not old enough to be a snow bird. But, we are going to Jamaica in February though. :yes::yes::yes:

 

[Bob Denman]

BRING BACK RUM!! :2thumbs:

 

[frenchek]

ans

John,

I still think that the mod that Phil did on his RT, putting a fan in one of the lower pans, is the best thing right now to cut down on the heat. This mod would not cost much to do and would remove most of the heat from the engine compartment. The fan is $82 and some time to hook it up. Take a look at it on the 'My Spyder Mods' section.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?24907-Phil-s-Mods/page9


If you were not so far away I would do the work for you for free.

phil--really like the fan on the belly pan. do you run it all the time ? another question-any problem running in the rain ?

thanks-tim

 

[Chupaca]

As I see it..!!

Coming in from the top would work best. Blowing the heat out the bottom rather than to the back (gas tank and rear cylinder). Mounting the fan above blowing down by removing the massive air box or as seen mounting the fan below drawing the air out the bottom. Not having seen a 2013 frame don't know about the space limitations. Jmo :thumbup:

 

[Dan McNally]

Coming in from the top would work best. Blowing the heat out the bottom rather than to the back (gas tank and rear cylinder). Mounting the fan above blowing down by removing the massive air box or as seen mounting the fan below drawing the air out the bottom. Not having seen a 2013 frame don't know about the space limitations. Jmo :thumbup:

Ram air scoops on the vents under the mirrors, with thermostat-controlled fans , to pull in fresh air and blow it down through the Tupperware sounds like a useful solution . . .

 

[Chupaca]

Now where..!!

to put it..member here put them running off the fog light holes..will have to dig deeper and see. Problem being I don't have a heat problem (would cool it down better) and don't have an RT..

 

[cuznjohn]

thanks

lots of good ideas thanks

 

[Bob Denman]

John
Remember... :2thumbs: