F3T front shock spanner wrench set

[Buckskin]

I have 2016 F3T and want to tweak the front shocks. So there are two spanners for the front shocks? Anybody got a part number/size/source for the two wrenches. Appreciate any help here guys.
Buckskin
Any advice on tweaking them? Is it a click to the next setting or just make a turn and do the same on the other side and keep track what you did?

 

[WackyDan]

I have 2016 F3T and want to tweak the front shocks. So there are two spanners for the front shocks? Anybody got a part number/size/source for the two wrenches. Appreciate any help here guys.
Buckskin
Any advice on tweaking them? Is it a click to the next setting or just make a turn and do the same on the other side and keep track what you did?

68mm.

Don't buy a cheap set either... Cheap ones end up bending the little tooth that engages the nut.

 

[Buckskin]

Well, I have the 68mm spanner wrench heading my way. Here's what I found in the owners manual when looking up how to adjust the front suspension.
"Adjusting Suspension Front Suspension
See a Can-Am dealer for front suspension adjustment.
Wow! So while dialing in the front end I'm supposed to go back and forth to the dealer and get them to drop what their doing to make finite adjustments?? Where's that page they are working on?
Anybody got procedures from one of the aftermarket shock people that might have instruction on how to proceed?
Buckskin

68mm.

Don't buy a cheap set either... Cheap ones end up bending the little tooth that engages the nut.

 

[jcthorne]

You need a service manual. But here is the relevant page:



One tip that is missing is you need to remove the load from the shock before attempting to adjust the nuts/rings.

 

[Chupaca]

Try this....

I always take one tooth on the adjusting ring and mark it...knotch it, etch it, paint it but that doesn't last long. That way I can count the turns and match both sides. :thumbup: some brands have a mark already so check to see if not mark one.

 

[Buckskin]

Ok, the end to end measurement is 16.5" and the manual suggests the wheels is removed for clarity which also suggest that the load is off the shock. That being said, no load the shock is full extension and so I what the measurement taken with no load to be 16.5.
Your suggestion to lift the front wheel so no load makes sense for making the adjustments, but with that being said, the 16.5 measurement is take while in the air or when the wheel is on the ground and weight of bike is on it?
What if one wants a little bit stiffer, maybe 16.25 or 16.0.
Or am I pushing it?
Buckskin
Anxious to see where they are now. Spanner wrench coming tomorrow.

You need a service manual. But here is the relevant page:

View attachment 150534

One tip that is missing is you need to remove the load from the shock before attempting to adjust the nuts/rings.

 

[jcthorne]

Ok, the end to end measurement is 16.5" and the manual suggests the wheels is removed for clarity which also suggest that the load is off the shock. That being said, no load the shock is full extension and so I what the measurement taken with no load to be 16.5.
Your suggestion to lift the front wheel so no load makes sense for making the adjustments, but with that being said, the 16.5 measurement is take while in the air or when the wheel is on the ground and weight of bike is on it?
What if one wants a little bit stiffer, maybe 16.25 or 16.0.
Or am I pushing it?
Buckskin
Anxious to see where they are now. Spanner wrench coming tomorrow.

The BRP measurement is take with the load on the bike. Then you remove load, lift bike, make adjustment and reload. Measure again. Lather rinse repeat....

One turn of the adjuster (one thread pitch additional preload) make a good bit of difference in handling. You are compressing the spring. I would start with one or two turns tighter than stock, not 1/2 inch.

 

[Buckskin]

Thanks, that's what I needed to have some procedure and did not want to get too crazy with turning that adjustment nut.
Buckskin

The BRP measurement is take with the load on the bike. Then you remove load, lift bike, make adjustment and reload. Measure again. Lather rinse repeat....

One turn of the adjuster (one thread pitch additional preload) make a good bit of difference in handling. You are compressing the spring. I would start with one or two turns tighter than stock, not 1/2 inch.