• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Review: F3L Top Case installed on F3T

Bluntly, what a PITA. Between imprecise instructions that had difficult to read diagrams and left out steps and that blankety-blank yellow threadlocker that Canucks seem to be addicted to, a job that should have taken a couple of hours at most turned into almost a full day odyssey. Had a little trouble with the lock barrel also, wound up filing the inside of the lid's bolt recess as the bolt was catching on it - but only when the lid was shut. I'm thankful that I never plan to remove it, although that probably isn't nearly as sucky as the initial installation if BRP's video is to be believed...
 
An update: On my 2017 F3T, the connection to power the USB port in the trunk doesn't exist. Not that big a deal as I have an auxiliary fuse box mounted under the passenger seat and will trace the wiring, cut the plug from the trunk harness and power it through the auxiliary fuse block. That will also give me the ability to quickly change from "powered at all times" to "powered when engine running".

Edit - Actually, the connection for the USB ports in the trunk doesn't exist on the harness, either. Not much difference to me as I would have wound up fabricating a harness to connect it in either case. Still, another star lost in the rating... we're down to three stars.
 
I have one question: Is the top box lid still so flimsy??? I've noticed that many owners have installed some type of luggage rack to their F3 top box to "stiffen" the lid so it closes properly.
 
I'm putting BRP luggage rack on my 18 F3L as soon as winter is over. Very flimsy. Do not think 19's would be any different. The rack stiffens it up alot. The one I seen at the dealer seem to close much better.
 
I have a limited and taking the box off and on literally takes me 5 mins. I actually take off all the time while I do short rides or ride alone and any long trips I put it back on. Maybe the F3T has some stuff different but it shouldnt...

the top case lid is flimsy for sure, just have to be careful with it. also make sure when you close it 2 things

try never to forget the lock when it is open (flimsy is good here cause it wont snap it if you try to close it in locked position, trust me, lol)
also when you do close it make sure the side latches latch properly, because sometimes they will no go into position and scratch the crap out of the sides.

just play with it you will see what I mean...

but enjoy...

Stiff
 
The 2016 should be the same for removing and installing once the initial hardware is installed.
 
figured it should be the same..

so if thats the case its super easy.. 5 min

-remove the passenger seat
-open the top case and remove the 2 screws under the rubber mat inside
-tilt the case upward towards the front of the bike
-unplug the 2 big plugs and the FM antenna and the USB wires (I added a waterproof plugin to the usb wires to make it easy to unplug and replug)
-undo the safety strap from the bike
-lift the case a bit higher and pull off.
-then just remove the 2 brackets on either side
-put on the T cowl cover and the passenger seat

all finished

reverse when installing the case...

I think I got everything

Stiff
 
I have one question: Is the top box lid still so flimsy??? I've noticed that many owners have installed some type of luggage rack to their F3 top box to "stiffen" the lid so it closes properly.

Yes, it is. I thought the Victory top box lids were flimsy, but this is a whole 'nother dimension of fragile. Mine closes properly, now that I've shaved the lock's bolt recess so that it doesn't keep the bolt from engaging.
 
Stiff,

I think you've got all the steps (and I plan to add a waterproof plug to the USB power connection as I have some factory plugs on hand), but I'd have to mount/dismount the trunk quite a few times to get it down to 5 minutes. Another question... what do you do for a radio antenna when you've dismounted the trunk? Take off the left saddlebag and remount it? Inquiring minds want to know...
 
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