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F3 front brake issue - pulling sharply to one side.

bushrat

New member
Thought perhaps I should post this as a 'heads-up' for others.

I have about 18,000 km (12,000 mi) on my 2017 F3L. A couple of months back, while winter riding in FL, I did a 'hard' stop one morning, and noticed a fairly severe pull to the right - the Spyder dipped sharply and ducked to the curb. Prior to this, my brakes had been working fine. The handling was also good. I don't believe it had anything to do with alignment, tire pressure difference or any other cause. Since then, while doing 'normal' riding and fairly regular braking, the 'pull' to the right was not very noticeable. Under heavy/panic-type stops, it was much more evident. As it was nearing time for my second service/oil change, etc., I decided to wait a few weeks and have it checked when I got back home. We are fortunate to have an excellent, very thorough dealer where I bought the Spyder - H B Cycle, in Lindsay, ON. It went in the other day for service, with an additional request to check out the brakes.

The service manager was on the phone to me this morning; he had personally done a test ride. He was quite concerned about the severe pull when he tested panic stops - my bike was a "real danger". The brake system was thoroughly checked; no fault codes were found. The brake fluid was bled from the lines and replaced to ensure there was no failure due to air bubbles. Didn't solve the problem. He then went on line to the special BRP site where dealers can report and compare notes about problems and possible repairs. It seems there have been a few similar reports where Spyders have experienced severe pulling to one side or the other under heavy/panic braking pressure. The cause seems to be that the calipers on one side don't close equally in pressure. The solution appears to be replacement of the weak side calipers. Thankfully, my bike is under warranty, and the parts have been ordered; I hope to be road-worthy in a few days.

I'm told there have been several cases reported, though not many. Prior to this, my Spyder had no known issues. Indeed, the service manager said he found the bike to be in great condition and handled well otherwise. I have to say that I have so far been very impressed with my F3L; I expect that my happy experience will continue. I'm also impressed with the service/attention I get at this dealership. The only thing one has to put up with is that these guys are always so busy, that it's usual to have to book in advance and be prepared to wait in line. No wonder; they have a great reputation throughout my area, and guys come in from miles away for service (on all manner and make of vehicles).

Long story short: it seems that there have been at least a few cases where the Spyder brake system can get out of sync, and that this may be caused by weakness in the front calipers on one side or the other. I guess I'll find out soon enough whether replacement of the weak side works for me. In the meantime, I'm flagging this for any others who may feel their bikes aren't holding straight and true under heavy braking. If anyone has had a similar problem, I'd appreciate hearing about it. Thanks.
 
Are the 2017 Spyders still running Brembo brakes? :dontknow:

I have a vague feeling that I'd heard somewhere around 2017 or 18, BRP dropped the Brembo's and were using their own or alternative brake calipers from there on in?! Not sure, and I can't say I've paid any real attention to the brakes on those Spyders, so does anyone know?! ;)
 
I believe mine has Brembo brakes, Peter; at least I recall that's how it was advertised/described when purchased.
 
Are the 2017 Spyders still running Brembo brakes? :dontknow:

I have a vague feeling that I'd heard somewhere around 2017 or 18, BRP dropped the Brembo's and were using their own or alternative brake calipers from there on in?!

Must have been a rumor - my 2019 has Brembos !
 
Our 2014 had a similar issue.

My first troubleshooting method was swapping front wheels side to side. The problem remained and did not follow the tires.

Next I swapped brake discs side to side, again the problem remained on the same side.

Next, I swapped brake pads side to side and the problem shifted to the opposite side.

I had a set of used but serviceable brake pads on hand. I repositioned everything back into original locations, cleaning all friction surfaces as I did. Found the Spyder stopped normally.

So with further investigating, I found the right caliper had a very faint fine dust around one piston. Cleaned everything and reset the caliper piston.

The caliper piston had a very fine weep of fluid that eventually contaminated one brake pad. In short that pad had oil on it and would not hold as strongly as the others, resulting in a pull.

My greatest concern was the abs unit had failed, but it did not and the failure was old school.

Seal kits are not available through Can Am, so you may be looking at caliper replacement. You should also change the brake pads on both sides.
 
I would also suspect that you have a warped rotor. I would have both rotors replaced.

I believe the guys at H B have looked at the rotors as well as the pads, but opted to proceed with replacement of the calipers. Not an inexpensive repair, but I'm under warranty, so am letting them use their best judgement. We'll know soon enough. Thanks.
 
I believe the guys at H B have looked at the rotors as well as the pads, but opted to proceed with replacement of the calipers. Not an inexpensive repair, but I'm under warranty, so am letting them use their best judgement. We'll know soon enough. Thanks.

It is unlikely that you have a rotor issue here. Bad rotor symptoms are completely different than what you are experiencing. If they have ruled out a VSS issue, then it is a virtually surety that it is caliper piston related. It could also be a collapsed or pinched brake line. But that is an extremely rare problem and I would guess they have ruled that out as well. If the caliper piston is not leaking, the area around the piston could be cleaned and the piston be articulated all the way in and then back out near its limit several times to free up full piston travel. This approach will many times correct the problem. But replacing the entire caliper is a more sure approach.

Hope it works out well for you. Appears that your dealer is going in the right direction.
 
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All of the above...

Good place to start would be the caliper and pads. If not there move on to the more tricky stuff...:thumbup:
 
My wife's F3 did the same thing a couple of years ago. it just turned out that the brakes got overheated and the one pad lost grip. This was a known issue with OEM pads and was told to us by our dealer over the phone. We changed the pads and put a set from bajaron and everything was fine again.
 
Check your Brake fluid. I have a 17 F3L and had a fluid leak in the rear caliper. They replaced the caliper yesterday. They blead the rear brakes and it still had air so they blead the front brakes. I did some quick stops on the way home and on one stop noticed it pulling to one side. I think it was still setting itself because they did not do it again. I had a brake failure error a couple of weeks ago and it also said low fluid. When I took the top off the reservoir the rear half was almost empty. Good thing I went straight to the auto parts to add some.
 
Low brake fluid will not cause a pull to one side. If you get air in your lines then you loose braking power to all brakes. They are not independent of one another, they are all linked. Just like your car.
 
Low brake fluid will not cause a pull to one side. If you get air in your lines then you loose braking power to all brakes. They are not independent of one another, they are all linked. Just like your car.

The spyder fluid has separate front and rear fluid chambers just like a car. The auto parts guy pointed that out when I was adding fluid. If you loose brakes on one, you still have the other.
 
I can see Can Am doing that as as safety thing, but it still wouldn't give you the darting to the side. That is from one of the pads going 'bad' from too much heat.
 
I can see Can Am doing that as as safety thing, but it still wouldn't give you the darting to the side. That is from one of the pads going 'bad' from too much heat.

I agree, but I am not that unknowable about brakes. Some things need to be diagnosed by a tech.
 
I just now posted same problem with my 18 F3T pulling hard right under light or heavy slow or fast braking. My tests show each wheel spins freely jacked up and with no braking each caliper is equally cool. But...under normal braking right side is very hot while left is semi hot. Real squirrely. 6200 miles and has been doing this for a good while. Appt at dealer May 29 for fix. I hope I can find your future posts about this problem. Thanks!
Steve
Johnson City TN
 
Happy news up-date!!!
PROBLEM SOLVED; Spyder is fixed and rolling again like new.

As mentioned above, I had a serious problem of Spyder pulling sharply to right under heavy braking. Severe enough to put me on shoulder of road instead of stopping in a safe, straight line while still on pavement. This has now been resolved by replacing the left front calipers along with new pads. To 'equalize' braking ops, the right side pads were replaced with new as well, so that pad wear from this point is fresh and even. In recent weeks, the right side brakes had been doing all the work.

My techs tell me that it wasn't the pads or the rotors that were at fault. Simply, the left calipers were not functioning completely in balance with the right. Apparently, there is an on-line "chat" system where techs at BRP dealers can contact each other and compare issues. It seems there have now been a few cases where calipers have failed on one side or the other. Replacement of the weak side is the approved remedy. BRP covered my fix under warranty; I was lucky to still have two weeks of full coverage left before I go on B.E.S.T. Just as a heads-up, each caliper replacement is worth $500 CAN parts & labour (incl tax), roughly $350 US.

Both the head tech as well as myself have given my Spyder a good workout, post-repair, and agree the bike is solid and working fine again. I was in for my second service (oil change and check-over). The techs at H B Cycle in Lindsay, ON, did a fantastic job. Re-tensioned my belt, bled brake lines, looked everything including tires over real well. Feels and shifts like a brand new machine again. Wonderful to be back in the saddle knowing I have a safe, solid ryde under my butt again.

Hope Steve's shop in Johnson City, TN, will resolve his issue as well. Get the bad calipers swapped out and replace the right side pads as well, just to be even and sure. BTW Steve, love your part of the World; hope to do some more riding in the nearby hills again this fall on my way to FL for the winter. Got a taste of them last year; looking forward to a return. Get your Spyder fixed and perhaps we can meet up for a ryde. Good luck with resolving your concerns.
Roger
 
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