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Exclamation Mark and Fault Code P210A on a 2023 S2S - Any ideas?
- Thread starter cgroh360
- Start date
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Well, I fired up BUDS2 and opened a 2023 file, and searched the Fault Code database. I found no listing for a P210R. There is a section of P210's that relate to your Throttle Body, but none ending in "R". So, would you please double check that code again. Merry Christmas.
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Just for the heck of it, I did a Google search on Can Am Spyder, any of this sound valid or is it a bunch of AI hooey?
The P210R code on a 2023 Can-Am (likely a Spyder S2S, as indicated by forum discussions mentioning this specific code on the model) indicates a throttle actuator control system issue.
Code Meaning
The code P210R is related to the vehicle's powertrain and specifically points to a problem with the Throttle Actuator "A" Control Motor Circuit Range/Performance. The S2S model uses a Throttle Accelerator Sensor (TAS) system, and a fault can cause the vehicle to enter "Limp Home" mode, limiting engine power.
Common Causes
Potential causes for this error include:
The P210R code on a 2023 Can-Am (likely a Spyder S2S, as indicated by forum discussions mentioning this specific code on the model) indicates a throttle actuator control system issue.
Code Meaning
The code P210R is related to the vehicle's powertrain and specifically points to a problem with the Throttle Actuator "A" Control Motor Circuit Range/Performance. The S2S model uses a Throttle Accelerator Sensor (TAS) system, and a fault can cause the vehicle to enter "Limp Home" mode, limiting engine power.
Common Causes
Potential causes for this error include:
- Faulty throttle position sensor(s) (TPS)
- Wiring issues or a poor electrical connection in the throttle control circuit
- A weak or failing battery, as low voltage can trigger various seemingly unrelated fault codes
- Problems with the Engine Control Module (ECM) not receiving proper signals
Does your Spyder have a Haiju battery in it?
Even new batteries can fail, especially if they haven't been initialised properly (filled with electrolyte the correct way and allowed to stand long enough for it to diffuse through the plates sufficiently) AND then fully charged for at least 8 hours on a proper charger (not just a trickle charger); but then our Spyders do have a slight battery load over time. 
So despite your current battery being 'new-ish', it still could have failed in just a couple of days after installation, and even if your 'new-ish' battery was a good quality battery with a capacity better than 350 CCA and 21 A/hrs (and the OEM 2020+ Spyder batteries definitely are NOT any of that, so if it was just a 'like for like' replacement for the OEM battery, then it was likely just not up to the task for very long to start with, and definitely not if it wasn't initialised and charged properly before installation!
) then if you've left your Spyder un-tended without a quality battery maintainer connected for too much more than a month or so, chances are the battery is now flat enough (if not completely dead) that things won't necessarily work properly when you try to start it up next time! Sorta like what you're experiencing here... 
If any of that ^ has occurred &/or you do any of that running your battery down stuff too often, then it's highly likely that your current battery is now as useful for starting the Spyder as is a slice of water-logged toast!
There's a LOT here on the Forum already about batteries, load testing them, maintaining them, and how extremely power hungry our Spyders are, leading our Spyders to be prone to odd codes etc like this one simply due to poor battery voltage - so might be worth your while to do some searching and reading, if not charging &/or replacing of batteries. It just might be that installing a new, properly initialised, and known fully charged battery that is definitely of sufficient capacity for the job (at least 350 CCA & 21 A/hr) will resolve your problem; and it's even more likely that if your current battery is involved but IS NOT quite up to the task, then nothing short of getting a battery that IS up to the task will fix things for you, even if there is more going on than just the battery!
Just Sayin'
So despite your current battery being 'new-ish', it still could have failed in just a couple of days after installation, and even if your 'new-ish' battery was a good quality battery with a capacity better than 350 CCA and 21 A/hrs (and the OEM 2020+ Spyder batteries definitely are NOT any of that, so if it was just a 'like for like' replacement for the OEM battery, then it was likely just not up to the task for very long to start with, and definitely not if it wasn't initialised and charged properly before installation!
) then if you've left your Spyder un-tended without a quality battery maintainer connected for too much more than a month or so, chances are the battery is now flat enough (if not completely dead) that things won't necessarily work properly when you try to start it up next time! Sorta like what you're experiencing here... If any of that ^ has occurred &/or you do any of that running your battery down stuff too often, then it's highly likely that your current battery is now as useful for starting the Spyder as is a slice of water-logged toast!
There's a LOT here on the Forum already about batteries, load testing them, maintaining them, and how extremely power hungry our Spyders are, leading our Spyders to be prone to odd codes etc like this one simply due to poor battery voltage - so might be worth your while to do some searching and reading, if not charging &/or replacing of batteries. It just might be that installing a new, properly initialised, and known fully charged battery that is definitely of sufficient capacity for the job (at least 350 CCA & 21 A/hr) will resolve your problem; and it's even more likely that if your current battery is involved but IS NOT quite up to the task, then nothing short of getting a battery that IS up to the task will fix things for you, even if there is more going on than just the battery!
Just Sayin'
The suspension fault likely is caused by the rear auto air suspension. It may have a small leak or the system isn't auto compensating. The suspension will bring the rear to a preset height based on load. Since your bike has so few miles check to make sure the rear position sensor is actually hooked up, dealers often overlook it as it comes from the factory unattached. On the rear left of the swingarm there is an short rod coming down from the sensor, it should be attached with an M6 shoulder bolt to the swingarm. Part number 380 in this diagram:
To ensure the compressor and sensor are working properly sit on the bike, engine running, in first gear, and foot on the brake. While watching the rear view mirrors, have someone stand on the passenger foot rest. You should be able to detect the bike compensating for the change in weight by watching for movement in the mirrors. Have the second person get off the bike and you should be able to detect movement again as the rear suspension compensates.
There is a Schraeder valve under the driver's seat on the right side, check the air pressure after ensuring the above. This will give you the normal air pressure. Check again the next day without starting the bike and see if you have lost any air pressure. If you have lost a significant amount, ie. over 5psi, then you may have a leak in the system.
To ensure the compressor and sensor are working properly sit on the bike, engine running, in first gear, and foot on the brake. While watching the rear view mirrors, have someone stand on the passenger foot rest. You should be able to detect the bike compensating for the change in weight by watching for movement in the mirrors. Have the second person get off the bike and you should be able to detect movement again as the rear suspension compensates.
There is a Schraeder valve under the driver's seat on the right side, check the air pressure after ensuring the above. This will give you the normal air pressure. Check again the next day without starting the bike and see if you have lost any air pressure. If you have lost a significant amount, ie. over 5psi, then you may have a leak in the system.
Mikey
Well-known member
Do yourself a favor and do a load test on your battery, stop being puzzled and start working your problem down the line!
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Not trying to be a wise guy or anything, but the code for Suspension Fault is C210A. Just a coincidence? Maybe look at the code again. It is triggered by the suspension taking too long to reach the correct height. Excellent explanation by Sage. Here's a photo of the part that he was talking about. The lower bolt by the arrow is the one that is always left un-done.
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