SPYD3R
Active member
like BLUEKNIGHT said, "the canister serves a purpose", and i'd prefer to keep the canister in place...
were you able to ride? did you notice anything different? etc etc etc....
Dan P
Easley, SC
SPYD3R
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Evap cannister
- Thread starter bhfromme
- Start date
like BLUEKNIGHT said, "the canister serves a purpose", and i'd prefer to keep the canister in place...
were you able to ride? did you notice anything different? etc etc etc....
Dan P
Easley, SC
SPYD3R
Magdave
New member
With the "T" in you are effectively eliminating the canister. The only way to keep it functional would be to add a one way valve to allow gas out and close when purge valve suction occurs. Even then a lot of fumes would still escape via the added "T". It would make it easier to reattach if warranty service is needed than total removal.
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stewartj239
New member
We are in the dead of winter here, so I won't be able to take it out until spring. The other thread that eliminates the canister altogether was from August of 2009, so it is a modification that has been around for a while and I have seen any posts about it being a problem. It too is completely reverseable.
Magdave
New member
The only problem is you are violating the EPA rules and may have issues with the purge valve (lots of reports of that going bad) that will not be covered under warranty unless you re install everything. The "T" set up does about the same as removal and allows a quick reversal if needed in that case. If you want to be a law breaker do as you wish.:dontknow: Removing it will not stop gas vapors or gas leakage either although they may happen on the road and not the garage. The canister was supposed to control that but poor design of it doesn't make it work as well as it should. Just sayin'....
stewartj239
New member
My goal is to eliminate the gas fumes that fill the garage so that it doesn't burn down and permeate into the house. If the canister worked the way it was supposed to, then it would remain on the bike.
jaherbst
New member
stewartj239
New member
Are bad purge valves a failure tied specifically to the removal of the canister? I saw nothing about that in the other thread.
Magdave
New member
I do not know if there is a relationship between the removal but there is a relationship to the gas smell and drip from a bad purge valve that is stuck.I have read that in several threads. I could think of reasons improper canister removal could cause issues with the valve. Some say to plug the line to it but I do not see how that is viable. Maybe using a fuel filter as a plug would make more sense. A bad purge valve may be independent of the removal and need fixed and without the canister I doubt BRP will pay for it under warranty. You have MAP sensors that may or may not be affected by a plugged purge valve. It is not expecting to get no draw from the line:dontknow:
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Magdave
New member
One additional thought is if you own a 2013, that the tank is not insulated on, they have been known to boil on hot days. Mine did. A canister is supposed to capture the fumes that causes and recycle them to the engine. Without a canister if you pull into the garage after a hot day's ride and a boiling tank you will still get fumes. I have insulated my tank and it seems to have helped the boiling I will know more next summer because that was done near the end of the season.
stewartj239
New member
I have just done the same. No boiling gas for me, but I don't see how it can't do anything but help.
If your worried about laws and warranties then leave it all alone. Modifying the hose routing is going to be just as frowned upon as eliminating the entire system.
Gasoline vapors are about 3 times heavier than air. Installing a T below the canister like in the diagram just bypasses the canister.
Another good side effect of removing or blocking off the purge valve vent line is that it will cause the motor to run slightly richer as your blocking off the unmetered air supply.
It also eliminates a likely problem area with the purge valve sticking open, causing the motor to run leaner than desired.
Gasoline vapors are about 3 times heavier than air. Installing a T below the canister like in the diagram just bypasses the canister.
Another good side effect of removing or blocking off the purge valve vent line is that it will cause the motor to run slightly richer as your blocking off the unmetered air supply.
It also eliminates a likely problem area with the purge valve sticking open, causing the motor to run leaner than desired.
SPYD3R
Active member
canister
i posted this diagram:
and i'm here to tell you: NO MORE SMELL OF GAS.... :yes: :clap: :2thumbs:
i did a 220 mile ride today, just to make sure she was warmed up to the max... back roads, secondarys and 60 miles on the interstate.... i pulled her into the MAN-CAVE immediately upon returning home, and stayed there for 2 hrs. afterwards... no smell whatsoever...
prior to my alteration, my garage was no place to be for the next 4 hrs....
whether you agree with what BRP's design or not... this alteration eliminates the gas smell....
thank you BLUEKNIGHT (Mike)...
Frenchie, PM me and i'll do yours....
opcorn:
i posted this diagram:
and i'm here to tell you: NO MORE SMELL OF GAS.... :yes: :clap: :2thumbs:
i did a 220 mile ride today, just to make sure she was warmed up to the max... back roads, secondarys and 60 miles on the interstate.... i pulled her into the MAN-CAVE immediately upon returning home, and stayed there for 2 hrs. afterwards... no smell whatsoever...
prior to my alteration, my garage was no place to be for the next 4 hrs....
whether you agree with what BRP's design or not... this alteration eliminates the gas smell....
thank you BLUEKNIGHT (Mike)...
Frenchie, PM me and i'll do yours....
opcorn:Bob Denman
New member
Mike knows all about thinking "outside of the box"! :2thumbs:
SPYD3R
Active member
3rd ONLY to Ronald Reagan & John Wayne, Mike is my HERO...... :thumbup:
Magdave
New member
I hope it works for you in 90 deg weather:thumbup: I only had intermittent smell and a few drops of gas last summer before I insulated the tank. Mostly when the tank was near full and hot when I got home.i posted this diagram:
and i'm here to tell you: NO MORE SMELL OF GAS.... :yes: :clap: :2thumbs:
i did a 220 mile ride today, just to make sure she was warmed up to the max... back roads, secondarys and 60 miles on the interstate.... i pulled her into the MAN-CAVE immediately upon returning home, and stayed there for 2 hrs. afterwards... no smell whatsoever...
prior to my alteration, my garage was no place to be for the next 4 hrs....
whether you agree with what BRP's design or not... this alteration eliminates the gas smell....
thank you BLUEKNIGHT (Mike)...
Frenchie, PM me and i'll do yours....
quickster47
New member
Magdave
New member
As a matter of fact never fast enough to get a ticket. I like my insurance rates where they are.:thumbup:
Bob Denman
New member
Thanks Dave
VERY well-put! :thumbup:
I also understand your reluctance to fool with things that might be best left alone... :shocked: My old RT was absolutely bone-stock under the Tupperware; They built it the way that they did for a reason, and their engineers are WAY smarter than I could ever hope to be...
But if something obviously isn't working as it should; I would normally have no reluctance to see if a workable fix is available. :thumbup:
VERY well-put! :thumbup:
I also understand your reluctance to fool with things that might be best left alone... :shocked: My old RT was absolutely bone-stock under the Tupperware; They built it the way that they did for a reason, and their engineers are WAY smarter than I could ever hope to be...
But if something obviously isn't working as it should; I would normally have no reluctance to see if a workable fix is available. :thumbup:
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KX5062
Active member
I recently took a day trip (08 GS) that involved some low speed stuff after being on the highway for hours. After stopping I discovered the gas was boiling. Obviously it's done this before, I just hadn't caught it in the act. I figured that because of the extreme amount of fumes that would have accumulated in the evap cannister it would be time to go. Once that charcoal cannister is saturated like that, it's toast. And, obviously this is not the first time the gas has boiled, since I've run the bike in more extreme conditions than this time.
Anyway, once the cannister was removed as per the thread here, the bike ran much better and much cleaner and crisper. No error codes and no gas smells. I also wrapped the pipes next to the gas tank to further insulate it. I'm a happy camper with this solution. :clap:
Anyway, once the cannister was removed as per the thread here, the bike ran much better and much cleaner and crisper. No error codes and no gas smells. I also wrapped the pipes next to the gas tank to further insulate it. I'm a happy camper with this solution. :clap:
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jwulf74
New member
OK...so I did the canisterectomy and I am torn. The vast majority. f the gas smell I think is gone now. Need to get a few more rides in to verify. There is just a touch of the smell, but nothing like before.
However, based on a couple of the other reports, I stuck my head and flashlight done by the vent tube a few times. I could see the fumes coming out and an ever so slow drip of presumably gas coming out of the vent tube. The drips resulted in a spot about the size of a pop can top.
So the smell before was bad, but the dripping is a little more concerning. Has anyone else's noticed dripping after doing the canisterectomy?
Do you suppose putting a loop in the vent hose would prevent it? I did put a filter inline.
However, based on a couple of the other reports, I stuck my head and flashlight done by the vent tube a few times. I could see the fumes coming out and an ever so slow drip of presumably gas coming out of the vent tube. The drips resulted in a spot about the size of a pop can top.
So the smell before was bad, but the dripping is a little more concerning. Has anyone else's noticed dripping after doing the canisterectomy?
Do you suppose putting a loop in the vent hose would prevent it? I did put a filter inline.
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