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ESI/NMN Mirror Extensions...

ataDude

Mod Maniac
... I was lucky enough to receive a pre-production, beta set of the mirror extensions, thanks to Evan. These things are great... there's quite a bit of complex machining on them to make them look, fit and function correctly.

My camera flash makes the extensions' finish look rougher than it really is. The actual finish matches the mirror stalks perfectly.
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Installation (Ease? A "two" on a scale of 10):

1. Remove the main mirror Torx head (#40) bolt and set aside.

2. Use a EZ-Out (or tap or even a bolt of the correct size) to remove the Nylon bushing from the mirror mount from the top. I used an EZ-Out (see below):
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3. With the ignition key off, remove/disconnect the dash panel. Use a small flat blade screwdriver in the dash panel's upper slots to press down on the plastic dash "keepers" and pull the panel to the rear.

4. Locate the turn signal connector in the console and disconnect. Cut/snip the wire from the mirror stalk about three inches from the connector. (Note that the production instructions will include directions on how to disconnect the wires from the connector... but I couldn't make that option work.) See below on where to cut:
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5. Remove the mirror/signal stalk from the roadster. The front plastic trim/gap piece can now readily be removed from the front of the mirror/signal stalk where it mates with the body's mount.

6. Remove about 1/4" of wire insulation from each wire end... on both the mirror side and the snipped connector.

7. Install the mirror extension on the mirror/signal stalk by inserting the provided Allen-head bolt from the bottom.
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8. Reposition the mirror/signal and extension back on the roadster's mirror mount. Thread the turn signal wire through the mount and pull it toward the opening created by the dash panel removal.

9. Reinstall the Nylon bushing (see #2 above) in the roadster's mirror mount and thread the Torx head (#40) bolt back into the mount.

10. Using the provided Posi-Lock connectors, reconnect the mirror/signal wire with the plug you snipped in #4 above. Then reconnect the signal connector with the roadster's wiring harness plug.
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11. Repeat for the other side.

12. Position the front plastic trim pieces (see #1 above) and fix in place with RTV or Goop Glue.

The finished product looks like this:
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I didn't get to road test today due to rain, but just sitting on the Roadster in the garage (going vroom, vroom :D) with the mirrors adjusted, my hands and the grips were not in my view... at all.

These extensions get a two-thumbs-up! They not only work but look "factory". :2thumbs:
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Atadude, just looking at the photo, it seems that the mirrors are moved back some, (that is, toward the rear of the spyder). If so, by how much? I'd like to see a side view. I'm still trying to figure out if the mirrors will clear a BRP touring shield. Nobody seems to know.
 
Mr. Dude (yeah...so formal!),
Great write up! :2thumbs: Very nice photos. Those extensions don't look like they are any more difficult to install than others on the market, plus they seem to look and function better. :thumbup:

Good job to ataDude and MagicMan!
 
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Atadude, just looking at the photo, it seems that the mirrors are moved back some, (that is, toward the rear of the spyder). If so, by how much? I'd like to see a side view. I'm still trying to figure out if the mirrors will clear a BRP touring shield. Nobody seems to know.

I'll try to get you a side view tomorrow.

Mr. Dude (yeah...so formal!),
Great write up! :2thumbs: Very nice photos. Those extensions don't look like they are any more difficult to install than others on the market, plus they seem to look and function better. :thumbup:

Good job to ataDude and MagicMan!

Thank you, Mr. Guy. :D The install is about the same except for the wiring clip/re-connect. The worst part of this job was one of the Nylon bushings was stubborn... not particularly intractable... just played hard to get. :ohyea:

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Thanks for the photos and confirming what I thought--- the wires are not long enough without some splicing-- at least on yours and mine..... I asked MM about this in another thread--- but maybe I didn't make myself clear. When I put the kewlmetal ones on --- there was barely enough wire to reach.

Looking sharp :thumbup:---- might be a good winter project to add to the list of mods to do while the snow is on the ground!
 
Thanks for the photos and confirming what I thought--- the wires are not long enough without some splicing-- at least on yours and mine..... I asked MM about this in another thread--- but maybe I didn't make myself clear. When I put the kewlmetal ones on --- there was barely enough wire to reach.

Looking sharp :thumbup:---- might be a good winter project to add to the list of mods to do while the snow is on the ground!


I got the same impression that all you had to do was cut some wire ties and then you would have enough length. I guess we were both wrong.
 
Thanks for the photos and confirming what I thought--- the wires are not long enough without some splicing-- at least on yours and mine..... I asked MM about this in another thread--- but maybe I didn't make myself clear. When I put the kewlmetal ones on --- there was barely enough wire to reach.


NO NO NO! :gaah:

Dan, I knew what you were asking and answered correctly!

When you asked if the wires "were long enough" I said "yes" and they are they are indeed plenty long!

The wire splice ATADUDE did is not a must here, but an option for those looking for a short cut.

The stock wire length is stupid long and is not the issue as there is at least another 9 inches of wire hid inside the console.

But, unless you can find a way to put a connector the size of your thumb through a hole the size of a pencil in the extension, than the wires have to ether be pulled out of the connector to be slid through the hole, or as ATADUDE did spliced with the Posi-locks.

We have the instructions written both ways for those who ether want to remove the pins from the connectors and then slide the wires through the hole. (like I do) Or with the supplied Posi-Lock connectors for those that don't want to bother removing the pins

Ether way will work just fine, but we give you two choices on how you wish to do it.

BUT THE WIRES ARE LONG ENOUGH BY A BUNCH!

MM
 
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NO NO NO! :gaah:

Dan, I knew what you were asking and answered correctly!

When you asked if the wires "were long enough" I said "yes" and they are they are indeed plenty long!

The wire splice ATADUDE did is not a must here, but an option for those looking for a short cut.

The stock wire length is stupid long and is not the issue as there is at least another 9 inches of wire hid inside the console.

But, unless you can find a way to put a connector the size of your thumb through a hole the size of a pencil in the extension, than the wires have to ether be pulled out of the connector to be slid through the hole, or as ATADUDE did spliced with the Posi-locks.

We have the instructions written both ways for those who ether want to remove the pins from the connectors and then slide the wires through the hole. (like I do) Or with the supplied Posi-Lock connectors for those that don't want to bother removing the pins

Ether way will work just fine, but we give you two choices on how you wish to do it.

BUT THE WIRES ARE LONG ENOUGH BY A BUNCH!

MM


Okay-- thanks for clarifying--- seeing his post with the splicing just confused things more (for me;)).
 
Thanks for the photos and confirming what I thought--- the wires are not long enough without some splicing-- at least on yours and mine..... I asked MM about this in another thread--- but maybe I didn't make myself clear. When I put the kewlmetal ones on --- there was barely enough wire to reach.

Looking sharp :thumbup:---- might be a good winter project to add to the list of mods to do while the snow is on the ground!

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That's not true. You need to cut... or unplug... the wires to feed through the NMN extension. There's plenty of wire.

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That's not true. You need to cut... or unplug... the wires to feed through the NMN extension. There's plenty of wire.

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Yup-- I get it now--- I just wasn't clear on why you were doing the splicing and thought it was because of a length issue. Now I understand there is a need to put the the wire thru a hole in the new ESI bracket.

The Kewlmetal ones are 2 pieces--- and mine were really tight on the amount of wire when I installed them--- probably due to being zip tied inside-- been a long time since I did those--- and while they are 'functional'---- they don't look nearly as good as these new units!

My kewlmetal ones allow too much 'slosh' -- and I'm afraid to tighten them any more than I already have --- so I've just lived with them---- until now-------

Will for sure be on my list of things to do this winter. :thumbup:

I like things that look FACTORY-- and these ESI units look factory !!
 
will they fit and work with a touring windshield?

I am liking these for both the look and the functionality. Question I have seen asked but not answered is "will they fit and work with a touring windshield?" Looks like they go up and back, which is cool but it looks like they will hit the windshield. Thoughts?

Mole
 
Atadude, just looking at the photo, it seems that the mirrors are moved back some, (that is, toward the rear of the spyder). If so, by how much? I'd like to see a side view. I'm still trying to figure out if the mirrors will clear a BRP touring shield. Nobody seems to know.

Here you go. I can't answer your question either as I have not seen the BRP-T shield. That's a CalSci on mine... in the pic.

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Thanks for the photos, Atadude. I guess I'll wait until sombody tries these with the BRP touring shield. They look good enough that I might try a little plastic surgery on the shield if necessary.
 
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Update on performance.

These are great. Much more viewing area without seeing your own hands.

They work! :2thumbs:

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Update on performance.

These are great. Much more viewing area without seeing your own hands.

They work! :2thumbs:

.


:agree::2thumbs: Just installed mine today. They look like they're factory installed and I can no longer see my hands in the mirrors.
 
:agree::2thumbs: Just installed mine today. They look like they're factory installed and I can no longer see my hands in the mirrors.


:2thumbs::clap::yes:

Glad you like them. That was the look we were going after and the function we wanted as well.

It was trying to get them to do these two things at once that took almost 12 months to get right. I never thought it was going to be as hard as it was to get it to work. :gaah:

At first I though move the mirrors Up & Out and make them look like they belong there, that will be easy. :roflblack:

Little did I know it would be as hard as it turned out to be. :shocked:

I'm glad you like them, and thanks for the kind words. :thumbup:

MM
 
Hello Magic Man,

I was talking to the guys at F1 and they said their evo3 slide will work with the NMN up and out mirror extensions. they said they will just add a couple of inches on shield out to the side....
Have you got any thoughts on how they work with the F1 evo3 slide?
 
Bushing don't fit!

I just got a pair of these to replace my KewlMetal ones as they have too much play. I hate to crank down on them any more.
I am stuck cause the bushings do not fit inside these mounts like on the stock or KewlMetal setup.
See the comparison below. Left (KewlMetal), (Right, Up & Out) from Custom Dynamics.
 
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I just got a pair of these to replace my NMN ones as they have too much play. I hate to crank down on them any more.
I am stuck cause the bushings do not fit inside these mounts like on the stock or NMN setup.
See the comparison below. Left (NMN), (Right) from Custom Dynamics.
I think you mean Kewlmetal, the NMN up and outs are sold through Custom Dynamics.

john
 
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