Error Code C1282 on 2012 RSS SE5 + Fuel issues/no start?

[PhilY]

This is the low pressure brake error. I've reviewed all the threads and still have problems/questions:

1. This is the ONLY error code that comes up but Spyder died after about 40 miles and will not restart. Can this be the cause on nonstart issue?
2. I've bled brakes, topped off reservoirs, checked brake switch, checked system for leaks etc., but cannot get rid of Brake Failure warning.
3. I don't know where the low pressure sensor is, can't find it on parts lists nor how to test it.

Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Bfromla]

Might need buds to clear -see if something else in history. Could try disconnecting battery for system reset. Honestly don’t know if would loose history of whatever is going on.

 

[PhilY]

Might need buds to clear -see if something else in history. Could try disconnecting battery for system reset. Honestly don’t know if would loose history of whatever is going on.

Thanks. Will try disconnecting the battery tomorrow.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Hey Phil. Unless there's something really wacky going on, there's no connection between C1282 and failure to start. One mystery at a time. There's a procedure for how to reset C1282 because it's one of those codes that stick even after you've fixed the brakes. But I'd like to get the thing started first. So, you went 40 miles and it "died". That means what, did it just quit on you in the middle of the road, Limp Mode, you turned it off and now it won't start? Won't start means what, it cranks but doesn't fire or it doesn't even crank? If it doesn't even crank, have you checked the Kill Switch?

 

[PhilY]

Hey Phil. Unless there's something really wacky going on, there's no connection between C1282 and failure to start. One mystery at a time. There's a procedure for how to reset C1282 because it's one of those codes that stick even after you've fixed the brakes. But I'd like to get the thing started first. So, you went 40 miles and it "died". That means what, did it just quit on you in the middle of the road, Limp Mode, you turned it off and now it won't start? Won't start means what, it cranks but doesn't fire or it doesn't even crank? If it doesn't even crank, have you checked the Kill Switch?

Snowbelt, can you confirm that the Brake Failure notice will not cause it to quit running?

History: Thursday: took a short run into town when it quit running in the middle of the road so I pulled over and removed the key. After waiting about 10 mins, it started with no problems, and I drove home. I restarted a couple of times without incident in my driveway.

Friday: Started up in anticipation of the ride on Sat. Had to crank it several times before it fired. It normally fires right away. I idled it for about 10 mins and shut it down.

On Sat, again had same starting problems after it had sat overnight. It was running fine and restarted immediately after two stops. Was headed home when it just quit in the middle of the road. It cranks but will not fire. I switched kill switch on/off, waited for an hour before my friend with a trailer arrived, etc. No joy.

Would really appreciate any suggestions as I have no dealer here.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Well, folks have ridden around with that code for days until they could reset it. In your case, you were able to also. Nothing in the manual about it doing that. Besides, it would stop it from running all of time, not just once in awhile.

Read post number 3 in this thread for the reset procedure.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?99246-Brake-failure-code-c1282

That switch is actually on the brake pedal linkage, it doesn’t directly check pressure. I think that you have a second issue. If it’s running fine, and then just shuts off, with the brake failure in the whole time, there’s something else. I’d be thinking about checking that all of your relays are pushed in tight and battery connections are tight for starters. Fuses like F8 are all tight and good.

 

[PhilY]

Yep. Tried the key/mashed brake pedal w/o success (after bleeding, topping off reservoirs, etc.). Will start on the electrics.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Hey Phil.

When you are pressing on the pedal, do it HARD. Practically your full weight...within reason.

One last thing. The 998 also has a habit of getting flooded. Yes, a fuel injected engine can get flooded. Therefore, the programming in the ECU has a flooded engine mode. It cuts off the fuel from the injectors and allows the engine to clear while you crank it over. We call it the Wide Open Throttle method, and this is sometimes forgotten about.

So, go through your normal startup sequence. BEFORE you hit the start button, twist the throttle wide open and hold it there. THEN, depress the start button and let it crank for about 10 seconds or until it times out on its own, whichever comes first. Then release the throttle and try a normal start. If it coughs and sputters, you’re making progress and may have to do this more than once. Keep the battery charged. Good luck.

 

[PhilY]

Hey Doug,

OK, I cleaned up all the connections I could get to, checked all the fuses and relays, used some Deoxit on all contacts for good measure. No luck.

Tried the Wide Open Throttle method twice before I got a low batt warning. Not even a cough. Then I pulled the rear plug which is on the left side. It had none of the classic signs of flooding, i.e., wet or dark. In fact, looks a bit lean the last time it ran. See photo. Wonder if I have a fuel problem??

Best,
Phil

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Hey Doug,

OK, I cleaned up all the connections I could get to, checked all the fuses and relays, used some Deoxit on all contacts for good measure. No luck.

Tried the Wide Open Throttle method twice before I got a low batt warning. Not even a cough. Then I pulled the rear plug which is on the left side. It had none of the classic signs of flooding, i.e., wet or dark. In fact, looks a bit lean the last time it ran. See photo. Wonder if I have a fuel problem??View attachment 194160

Best,
Phil

Looks good :thumbup: ..... How OLD is your battery ???? ..... I have never owned an internal combustion engine ( ie Spyder ) that has the amount of issues that a low / weak battery can cause as the Spyder ..... good luck .... Mike .... Try connecting your Spyder battery leads to your car/trk battery and let us know what happens .... PS Don't have the vehicle running

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Hey Phil. Well, it’s either fuel, air or spark, right. Plug looks good. The fact that it shuts off suddenly in the middle of the road like that, without even a miss or cough, might point more towards spark or something else with the electronics. As long as you have that plug out might as well check for spark. Put the plug wire back on, ground the outer metal part of the plug against the motor block and crank it over to see if it sparks. I might replace fuse F8 just for general principle even though it looks good. That feeds both coils and injectors. Do a Forum / Google search to see if there are any reports of kill switches failing. That would mean replacing the whole right side module. But, start with the simple stuff first. If you have spark then move on to fuel.

All of these start attempts are draining your battery lower so keep a charger on it. BTW, how old is it?

Out of curiosity, what started this whole C1282 thing anyway? Did you do some brake maintenance or did it just pop up?

 

[PhilY]

Hey Phil. Well, it’s either fuel, air or spark, right. Plug looks good. The fact that it shuts off suddenly in the middle of the road like that, without even a miss or cough, might point more towards spark or something else with the electronics. As long as you have that plug out might as well check for spark. Put the plug wire back on, ground the outer metal part of the plug against the motor block and crank it over to see if it sparks. I might replace fuse F8 just for general principle even though it looks good. That feeds both coils and injectors. Do a Forum / Google search to see if there are any reports of kill switches failing. That would mean replacing the whole right side module. But, start with the simple stuff first. If you have spark then move on to fuel.

All of these start attempts are draining your battery lower so keep a charger on it. BTW, how old is it?

Out of curiosity, what started this whole C1282 thing anyway? Did you do some brake maintenance or did it just pop up?

Doug,

I thought about checking for spark but didn't want to fry anything electronic. Is it safe to check like you mentioned w/o jeopardizing the whole nanny electronic system?

For Blueknight too: I usually keep battery on a Tender. It's about a year old so should be good. Cranks strong for a long time--got Low Batt Current scroll only while trying the Wide Open Throttle method.

Original code/Battery Failure scroll just popped up--turns out that I had some air in rear line and fluid was about a tablespoon from totally full but I still can't clear it, even standing on the brake pedal.

Best,
Phil

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Hey Phil. Good question. You will be connecting the exact same plug wire to the plug, and grounding the plug to the engine block the exact same way it always is, by using the outer metal part that has the threads and wrench flats. Thus, the electrical circuit you set up is exactly the same. The only difference is that the plug is outside the hole so you can see it, and not inside the hole.

This also a good opportunity to check your codes again and see if any others have popped up besides C1282.

 

[PhilY]

Hey Phil. Good question. You will be connecting the exact same plug wire to the plug, and grounding the plug to the engine block the exact same way it always is, by using the outer metal part that has the threads and wrench flats. Thus, the electrical circuit you set up is exactly the same. The only difference is that the plug is outside the hole so you can see it, and not inside the hole.

This also a good opportunity to check your codes again and see if any others have popped up besides C1282.

OK, sorry for the delay--work and other chores got in the way. OK, strong, blue spark when cranking so it's probably fuel.

No new fault codes.

So, I stripped off the Tupperware and cleaned up fuel electrical connections on top of fuel tank. Get nice humming when ignition first turned on which stops, presumably when pressure is up. BTW, I have a PC V installed. Could that be a problem??

Now???

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Sounds like your fuel pump is running fine.

I thought about asking you that last week, but didn't. I have a PC V also so I know how they work. And yes, there's about 100 different ways that the PC V could be the problem with lack of fuel. The reason is that it intercepts the signal that's going to the fuel injectors and modifies it. So, if the PC V dies on you, no signal will get to the injectors. Unless you are a tuning guru and really understand the relationship between the PC V and the stock ECU, then the thing isn't doing anything for you, anyway.

If your particular PC V installation also includes the O2 Optimizer - which is another little black box in line with the O2 sensors, just disconnect that thing before it blows up one of your sensors. Been there. As far as the PC V box goes, you can make a quick check by following the wire harnesses to the two fuel injectors - on the left and right side of the throttle body. You'll see how the PC V harness plugs into the Spyder's harness and then plugs into the injector. Unplug the two connectors from the PC V harness and plug the Spyder harness back into the fuel injectors to get the PC V out of the circuit. See if your engine starts then.

P.S. - Your model of PC V may also tap into your Spyder's ignition circuitry down near the two ignition coils as well as the crankshaft position sensor. You probably want to disconnect there, also, and restore the harness to stock configuration.

If you then want to completely remove the PC V - and you are the one who installed it, then you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise, you just continue unplugging stuff and returning the wire harnesses to stock configuration. There is one wire that attaches to your Throttle Position Sensor. They use a tap for that, not a connector. So be careful removing that one - or just cut the PC V wire and insulation it. Very small wires in that circuit. You'll see..

 

[PhilY]

Doug,

I installed the PCV. Guess the only way to determine whether it went bad is to uninstall. That's a whole weekend project which I'll try to do soon.

Thanks,
Phil

 

[Freddy]

Unplug the two connectors from the PC V harness and plug the Spyder harness back into the fuel injectors to get the PC V out of the circuit. See if your engine starts then.

PCV earth good connection is also critical.

 

[PhilY]

Unplug the two connectors from the PC V harness and plug the Spyder harness back into the fuel injectors to get the PC V out of the circuit. See if your engine starts then.

PCV earth good connection is also critical.

OK, completely uninstalled the PC V and tried cranking. NOTHING, not even a hint or a cough. I have spark and fuel (when I cranked with wide open throttle, fuel wetness inside intake was visible). No new error codes.

So I let it sit for a day to insure it wasn't flooded. Cranked again, full powered battery, NOTHING. Almost like the timing's off by 180 degrees or something similar.

I'm out of ideas! Any suggestions are appreciated!

 

[Freddy]

.....I have spark and fuel (when I cranked with wide open throttle, fuel wetness inside intake was visible).....

No you don't - one (or both) is missing.

Did you check at all the relays are tight and fuses ok as previously suggested?

Spray some starting fluid into intake while cranking and report back.

 

[PhilY]

.....I have spark and fuel (when I cranked with wide open throttle, fuel wetness inside intake was visible).....

No you don't - one (or both) is missing.

Did you check at all the relays are tight and fuses ok as previously suggested?

Spray some starting fluid into intake while cranking and report back.

Freddy, took a while to get some starter fluid, but RIGHT YOU WERE! It starts right up with a couple of squirts of starter fluid and runs for a couple of seconds so I'm looking at a fuel issue. It just quit running and wouldn't restart on mile 40 of a 45 mile trip.

Any tips on troubleshooting that fuel delivery issue?? What would be your best guess--fuel pump?

BTW, I did check all the fuses, relays, connections, etc.

Thanks in advance.