Electrical help...please!

[latony007]

The DPS error should go away if everything electrically is OK and there is nothing wrong with the DPS. If it persists you need to get it checked out. It could be something as simple as the steering angle sensor needs to be reset, which is a simple BUDs procedure. Considering all the screwed up actions your computers seem to have gone through I would say that is a real possibility. If than isn't it, then the DPS could be bad. They do crap out. Mine did last year. If it's not covered by warranty fixing it won't be a pleasant experience, unfortunately.

Thanks, i am so afraid of my dealer i am really do not want to take it in unless absolutely necessary. If its just a reset it may be reasonable i will try to call them. If there was an actuall issue with the power steering wouldnt you notice it like "hey i cant turn" kinda thing?

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

If there was an actuall issue with the power steering wouldnt you notice it like "hey i cant turn" kinda thing?

I don't know what all kinds of DPS problems are possible that would kick up an error, but in my case I definitely experienced an off and on action in steering. If the power assist was off and I was in a hard turn like on a freeway exit loop, and then the power turned on, it would cause an immediate oversteer condition.

Because your steering seems to be OK is why I think there's a good chance it's just a computer glitch that knocked the steering angle reading out of whack.

 

[latony007]

Saga continues. Not only is the DPS on but after riding it for 15 minutes it starts to show the battery indicator like it is sucking juice straight from the battery and not charging it at all. How can this possibly happen from plugging in a seat or trying to jump start it?? Dealer wants $145 just for diagnostics. Who knows how much for actual repair. Im so depressed right now i may just sell the thing when they give me some $1500 repair estimate.

 

[Magdave]

If it is indeed using up the battery without re charging it I will toss some mud on the wall. Bad Stator? The stator only puts out 650W. If and when you get it fixed DO put the relay fuse block in to protect everything else it has a fuse. You should have read before you bought it about dealer costs. This is like a BMW car and the price you were quoted was actually reasonable. Some charge ~$190 per hr. I am sure if you get it fixed it will roll into the repair cost. It is an easy fix it is the problem. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...arging-the-battery-dropped-it-off-at-the-shop

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Saga continues. Not only is the DPS on but after riding it for 15 minutes it starts to show the battery indicator like it is sucking juice straight from the battery and not charging it at all. How can this possibly happen from plugging in a seat or trying to jump start it?? Dealer wants $145 just for diagnostics. Who knows how much for actual repair. Im so depressed right now i may just sell the thing when they give me some $1500 repair estimate.

I'm beginning to think coincidence, not the seat heater being the problem, but that maybe you really do have a DPS problem.

Do this. Make sure the battery is charged up then pull out the fuse for the DPS. It's should be shown in your owner's manual or the diagram on the fuse box cover. Take it for a ride. It will be harder to steer and the DPS error will come up. If the battery runs down again in 15 minutes like it does now then the DPS is not the cause. If the battery does not run down, and I'm guessing it won't, then the DPS is staying in powered on mode. If it does run down again you'll need to look to the magneto like Magdave says, or look for another short to ground. The DPS sucks up a lot of power. It has a 40 amp fuse feeding it so if it is drawing power all the time there is no way the magneto will keep the battery charged.

How long have had this Spyder? Did you buy it new or used? If used I wonder if the previous owner was having problems and didn't fess up to them.

 

[latony007]

If it is indeed using up the battery without re charging it I will toss some mud on the wall. Bad Stator? The stator only puts out 650W. If and when you get it fixed DO put the relay fuse block in to protect everything else it has a fuse. You should have read before you bought it about dealer costs. This is like a BMW car and the price you were quoted was actually reasonable. Some charge ~$190 per hr. I am sure if you get it fixed it will roll into the repair cost. It is an easy fix it is the problem. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...arging-the-battery-dropped-it-off-at-the-shop

Your right, if i had known the service costs were going to be so much i probably would not have bought it. I have however learned to do several things on my own like fluid flushes and oil changes to help. What is the relay fuse block? i checked all the fuses in the front box several times and have not seen a bad one yet.

 

[latony007]

I'm beginning to think coincidence, not the seat heater being the problem, but that maybe you really do have a DPS problem.

Do this. Make sure the battery is charged up then pull out the fuse for the DPS. It's should be shown in your owner's manual or the diagram on the fuse box cover. Take it for a ride. It will be harder to steer and the DPS error will come up. If the battery runs down again in 15 minutes like it does now then the DPS is not the cause. If the battery does not run down, and I'm guessing it won't, then the DPS is staying in powered on mode. If it does run down again you'll need to look to the magneto like Magdave says, or look for another short to ground. The DPS sucks up a lot of power. It has a 40 amp fuse feeding it so if it is drawing power all the time there is no way the magneto will keep the battery charged.

How long have had this Spyder? Did you buy it new or used? If used I wonder if the previous owner was having problems and didn't fess up to them.

i'll try it. i have tried about everything else! i bought it used back in January. i have every service record from its previous owner and the guy was up front about whatever issues it had and its been running like a champ from January till now when i started this mess and screwed it up or major coincidence occurred. I highly doubt it was the seat either. I think i must have fried something trying to jump it is really all i can think of. There was that instance after i got the new battery where i switched the positive and negative on the seat because of the SAE connector but it has a fuse on the line so dont think it was that either. Who knows at this point. i am just going to have to get robbed by the dealer and see what happens. If this DPS check tells me anything at least it should help reduce the time it takes for them to find the problem.

 

[bruiser]

The magneto does not charge the battery until the engine reaches 4000 rpm. There is also a regulator rectifier involved as well. It is possible that a surge may have damaged on or the other.

 

[latony007]

No luck on removing the DPS fuse. Steering seemed about the same so it must not do much, seems like maybe its just a tiny bit tougher to steer than normal. So with a fully charged battery according to the tender i was able to ride an Approximate EIGHT-TEN MINUTES Tops before i got the voltage light and the rest of the christmas tree lit up and limp home mode showed!!!!! that seems crazy fast to me. I went back and forth on the same street right in front of my place so i wouldnt have to push far if needed and i kept it in 1st gear so the rmps were in the 5000 range as i drove down the street then obviously dropped as i turned around. Im not even sure i am going to be able to make it to the dealer before it dies, im going to take out the headlight relay see if that gives me a couple extra minutes to make it there. This whole thing is so weird.

 

[Magdave]

No luck on removing the DPS fuse. Steering seemed about the same so it must not do much, seems like maybe its just a tiny bit tougher to steer than normal. So with a fully charged battery according to the tender i was able to ride an Approximate EIGHT-TEN MINUTES Tops before i got the voltage light and the rest of the christmas tree lit up and limp home mode showed!!!!! that seems crazy fast to me. I went back and forth on the same street right in front of my place so i wouldnt have to push far if needed and i kept it in 1st gear so the rmps were in the 5000 range as i drove down the street then obviously dropped as i turned around. Im not even sure i am going to be able to make it to the dealer before it dies, im going to take out the headlight relay see if that gives me a couple extra minutes to make it there. This whole thing is so weird.

It is either what I posted above or it can still be a bad battery. If one of the cells is going bad it will take a charge but only last a short time. The magneto is only 650W pretty paltry charger mostly a maintainer. I still think the problem lies with Stator/magneto circuit but just wanted to add some food for though. If you think service for a Spyder is high try a BMW. Just like high end cars the Spyder has a "Corvette" tax when it comes to repairs mostly because it is a side line for most dealers.

 

[latony007]

It is either what I posted above or it can still be a bad battery. If one of the cells is going bad it will take a charge but only last a short time. The magneto is only 650W pretty paltry charger mostly a maintainer. I still think the problem lies with Stator/magneto circuit but just wanted to add some food for though. If you think service for a Spyder is high try a BMW. Just like high end cars the Spyder has a "Corvette" tax when it comes to repairs mostly because it is a side line for most dealers.

Well i bought a new Yuasa battery and even tried another from a local place that allowed me to return it, both the same result with the check DPS on, i did not run the one i returned down though. I also had the new Yuasa tested and the guy said it was not only good but its numbers were great. There was no doubt the old battery had issues but the new one is fine according to the Batteries plus location. I hear what your saying about a BMW but at least there you have the option of going to a regular mechanic where as with a spyder its the dealer or nothing as a regular bike mechanic wont touch it.

 

[latony007]

According to the dealer it is the Rectifier. How it went bad while changing the seat i dont know unless i did something jumping it with my car. I am relieved to see its not going to be $1000 but $340. They had to order the part of course and i should be able to get it back on tuesday or wed. I hope that solves everything and im back on the road soon. Will let everyone know.
Thanks!

 

[Dubliner]

The correct way to boost another vehicle is to connect the boost cables, the negative to the frame and the positive to the battery not both directly to the battery of the receiving battery or vehicle. The theory is this. The donor battery is full, the receiving battery is empty if you want to boost it leaving it attached securely for a while the donor battery will top up the flat one. [ think of two buckets, one full one empty] side by side with a tube between them eventually they will equalize. But if you are starting it up directly, attaching to the frame and battery will take the flat battery out of the equation and hopefully start the vehicle in question! Battery connections have to be secure as in bolted on to have the desired effect. The battery cables give very poor contact especially if rusty or crusty. At least they have solved the problem hopefully ! [emoji13]



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[Andy Cserny]

what an ordeal

When you get the roadster back and it all works then if you want to add electrical farkles use a relay that is activated by a wire that is hot when the key is on, that way whatever you add will be separate from the OEM circuit, the main power to the relay should be fused and come directly from the battery. Other responders to your original post have mentioned this, but I suspect their advice got lost in all the different issues you had. If you dont know how to do this get back on the forum and competent members will be happy to walk you through the process.
Andy

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

The correct way to boost another vehicle is to connect the boost cables, the negative to the frame and the positive to the battery not both directly to the battery of the receiving battery or vehicle. The theory is this. The donor battery is full, the receiving battery is empty if you want to boost it leaving it attached securely for a while the donor battery will top up the flat one. [ think of two buckets, one full one empty] side by side with a tube between them eventually they will equalize. But if you are starting it up directly, attaching to the frame and battery will take the flat battery out of the equation and hopefully start the vehicle in question! Battery connections have to be secure as in bolted on to have the desired effect. The battery cables give very poor contact especially if rusty or crusty. At least they have solved the problem hopefully ! [emoji13]

Actually, the real reason for connecting the negative to the engine or frame rather than the battery terminal is safety. Batteries may emit hydrogen gas, and connecting the second clamp will undoubtedly cause sparking. Sparks in the presence of hydrogen is not good. That is why batteries sometimes explode during the jumping process. Always connect the positive clamp to the battery terminal first, negative second to frame or better, the engine.

 

[dlby]

2cents worth

I left key on overnight

9 month old 2014 rtse6

No amount of
1. Charging with 4,8, or 20 amp or desulfate would fix it

2. It would not jump start in any configuration

3. All kind of screen displays yada yada going on

4. Thought bike was in big trouble

5. 2 days later bought new battery

6. Been riding ever since
Go figure---

Does not act like any machine ever owned in 47 years of machines that move me around

But I love it!


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[iceworm]

Couple of notes on batteries - probably stuff everybody knows.

Up until maybe ten years ago, all that was available for motorcycles, snow machines, ATMs were wet lead acid, caps on top. Definitely leak if turned on their side. Shipped dry, electrolyte separate.

Maintenance Free batteries are WLA, chemistry is such that they don't boil off much when charged properly. They have vents, if overcharged they will boil out and die. Although one can sometimes pry off the cell covers and add water. However, once boiled out they are pretty well done. These will leak if set on their side. All I have seen are shipped wet.

The other chemistry is AGM (absorbed glass mat) sometimes called VRLA. These are a lead acid type. The plate separator (the glass mat) is saturated with electrolyte, no free liquid, no caps - not even ones hidden under a cover strip. This is the same as shown in post 57. If overcharged the sealed vents will open and relieve pressure. They are pretty much done in if that happens. One can overcharge these about .9 times. These won't leak laying on their side. They are shipped with electrolyte in the battery.

I don't know anything about vehicle sized lithium ion or lithium polymer.

We had a2010 RTS for three days. Battery laying on its side. It was an AGM. I haven't seen the battery in the 15 RTS, however I highly suspect it is an AGM.

agm is good. High power density, low internal resistance. Small size, high cranking amps, don't leak. One has to be careful about overcharging, and they don't recover well if allowed to go clear dead.

About 5 years ago I finally found AGM style that would fit the WLA compartments in the snow machines and atv. Batteries + had them. Much better.

I didn't give any references. The different chemistries are well known and easy to look up if one is interested. But there is a lot junk science on the Internet - possibly including this post.:dontknow:

One final note: "Gel-cells" are not the same chemistry as "AGM". No matter what anybody says.

 

[latony007]

I could not get any straight answer from two dealers. All they could say was that BRP recomended replacing the DPS and hoping it solved both the DPS light issue and the limp home issue. I was not confident with that and do not trust my dealer at all. I wound up getting a great price and trade in offer from Imotorsports in IL and had them ship me a brand new RT and take away my GS. I have wanted the RT because its so much more comfy for not just me but my wife and daughter and since i almost always ride the spyder when i am 2 up (i have a yamaha i ride when alone) it seemed like a good time to do it. I just recently got some extra room on my house loan so this was really the only time i was going to be able to afford it so i took the plunge. Now i am afraid to touch or do anything to this one lol. I think it will remain stock for a while. Thanks everyone.

 

[Magdave]

If you are still getting a voltage fault I doubt the DPS is causing it. Reversing you seat wires ( BIG load) may have cooked the stator. Charging the battery at home will get you going but it is not charging on the road. You need to put a VOM on the battery after you charge it and start the bike and see if it slowly dies. If so it is your charging system.