• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

ECU Flash---Who has ORDERED YET?

I'm just over a full weeks ryding into a re-flash done by Jase at ECU Xtreme ([email protected]) and I'm STOKED!! :yes::yes::2thumbs:

Admittedly, I did have a bit of trouble getting at the ECU, cos my Spyder is a 2013 RT Ltd & on them, BRP in their wisdom moved things around somewhat in preparation for the 1330 motor, then when that wasn't available in time, reverted to shoe-horning the V-twin back in without considering how difficult that would make it to get at some components &/or pull them out; but once I got it out, sent it off for the re-flash & then put it back in & got it running again, it's been nothing short of FANBLOODYTASTIC!! Goes well too!! :yes: And even with all the extra GO, I'm still getting better fuel economy than I was ever able to get out of it stock!! :thumbup:

Fuel range here in Aus is a significant issue, there are heaps of places that I frequently ryde where the distance between fuel stops significantly exceeds the standard range that the V-twins could get out of just a tank full of gas (using about 20 'safely useable' litres) but not any more!! I already scored a wad of mid range grunt & about 50 km extra range by fitting a Cat Elim & modding the muffler, and now I've picked up well over another 100 km of useable range regardless of how hard I ryde it; in fact the cumulative mods have almost doubled my Spyder's original 'sedate touring' range, AND the ECU upgrade/tune not only significantly improves the GO, but it also takes into account & removes any hesitation or lack of grunt caused by removing the air trunking & changing the exhaust/cat elim etc. So now, not only do I have sufficient power to show just about anything a clean pair of heels, especially thru the twisties, but I also have access to almost double the original fuel range, and that's even if I'm full on fanging it!! Not only can I do way better than just stick with the 1330's performance wise but I can still stay with them when it comes to touring range, despite the smaller fuel tank the V-twins run!! :clap:

Even while I'm ryding 2-up & loaded, all the stock tune 1330's are now left eating my dust, along with all the other Saturday arvo bikes & ryders when we are out there punting thru the twisties, and I have yet to find a car that can keep up with us at any speed in the twisty stuff!! I'm still looking for a track or 'safe place' to do some speed runs, & I have had to re-learn the 'safe throttle settings' to avoid lighting up the rear tire every time I take off & to match those & steering angles to minimise lifting a front wheel on cornering, but overall the Nanny has been relatively unobtrusive, except when I've clearly done something silly! Even so, I don't believe this tune is a great idea for someone still coming to terms with ryding a Spyder at all, let alone yet to enjoy ryding 'spiritedly' & closer to the limits; nor for that matter do I believe it is a great idea for anyone still learning to ride anything with waaay better than 'normal street' performance levels - this particular ECU Upgrade comes on strong from the word Go & has made my Spyder the performance machine that I used to wish it was! It is NOT for the faint of heart, but if you want GO &/or can resist the temptation enough to access the better fuel economy that can come with it, then I believe Jase is your man! Or at least his tune is! :thumbup:
 
SPEED DEMON ????

Peter , now that you can go BLOODY MUCH faster , what you need is something that will give you a lot more Stability in the Handling Dept..... So PM me your address and I will send you a set of front shock adjusters ( I designed ) for your 13 RT that will BLOW YOUR MIND ..... it changes the way the Spyder handles in ways that have not been believed possible.... and info was learned from an Ohlins shock engineer .... Angle change 16% ..... firmness ( not stiffness ) 20 to 22% ........Lenny @ Pitbull did something similar a few years ago - His moved the top shock mount ....7/8ths on an inch ....... Mine are ...2 1/2 inches .....Peter these are Game Changers and for you - FREE ........PM me ...... Mike :thumbup:
 
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I'm just over a full weeks ryding into a re-flash done by Jase at ECU Xtreme ([email protected]) and I'm STOKED!! :yes::yes::2thumbs:

Even so, I don't believe this tune is a great idea for someone still coming to terms with ryding a Spyder at all, let alone yet to enjoy ryding 'spiritedly' & closer to the limits; nor for that matter do I believe it is a great idea for anyone still learning to ride anything with waaay better than 'normal street' performance levels - this particular ECU Upgrade comes on strong from the word Go & has made my Spyder the performance machine that I used to wish it was! It is NOT for the faint of heart, but if you want GO &/or can resist the temptation enough to access the better fuel economy that can come with it, then I believe Jase is your man! Or at least his tune is! :thumbup:

But you don’t have to have the tune you got, do you, Peter? Someone who rides sensibly (unlike you :lecturef_smilie::D) who just wants a bit more get up and go and quicker throttle response and fuel economy can get a tune along those lines from Jase?

Pete
 
But you don’t have to have the tune you got, do you, Peter? Someone who rides sensibly (unlike you :lecturef_smilie::D) who just wants a bit more get up and go and quicker throttle response and fuel economy can get a tune along those lines from Jase?

Pete

I reckon Jase could well do that Pete, & if you feel you are close enough to the Gold Coast to make it worth your while to make the trip, he can probably do yours via the UBD Port too (not that your ECU would be at all difficult to get out.... unlike the boxed in 2013 RT ECU!) :thumbup:
 
I reckon Jase could well do that Pete, & if you feel you are close enough to the Gold Coast to make it worth your while to make the trip, he can probably do yours via the UBD Port too (not that your ECU would be at all difficult to get out.... unlike the boxed in 2013 RT ECU!) :thumbup:

Might be a good excuse for a bit of a road trip, Peter.:thumbup: It’s only 500km away......no.....wait... I’d HAVE to go via the Oxley Hwy and Armidale.....better make that 800kn ;):D:D

Pete
 
Sounds good... ;) Easy ryde over, do the upgrade, ryde a little locally to get the feel of it & let the computer learn it's new parameters, then an easy ryde home! :yes: :2thumbs:

Couldn't be a better way of doing it even if you'd designed it that way! :thumbup:
 
This thread has been about the 1300 ACE motor, but I'd like to find out more about an ECM flash for the Bosch unit in the Rotax Twin. I've tried a number of searches without really getting any specific information similar to what's available for the ACE motor. I'd like to see some responses from others that have had their twin ECM flashed by either or both Jase and Monster FI. I have a 2013 ST-S SE FWIW.
 
So, I am finally about to order the ECU flash as I've procrastinated as long as I can...And, I see some additional commentary that spawns these questions.

I have a cat delete which I removed because it was interfering with my hearing my music (I still have it.) Question: How much of the potential power do I lose by not having the cat delete installed. (Let me note that the low end is more important to me than the very top end.)

And, how much potential power increase is sacrificed if I select the 91 octane option vs. the standard 93?? It annoys me to pay the $ premium to select that top grade. But, I'll certainly continue to do it if it is substantially worth it.

Thanks
 
ECU FLASH CRITERIA

So, I am finally about to order the ECU flash as I've procrastinated as long as I can...And, I see some additional commentary that spawns these questions.

I have a cat delete which I removed because it was interfering with my hearing my music (I still have it.) Question: How much of the potential power do I lose by not having the cat delete installed. (Let me note that the low end is more important to me than the very top end.)

And, how much potential power increase is sacrificed if I select the 91 octane option vs. the standard 93?? It annoys me to pay the $ premium to select that top grade. But, I'll certainly continue to do it if it is substantially worth it.

Thanks
I don't have one YET !!!, however I have read every post/thread about it ..... Depending on which Flash you use ( Monster or Jase in Australia ) ..... they can / will tailor the Flash based on your set-up .... I don't think 93 oct. was ever the requirement because it's not always available ....I think it was 91 oct. as the base amount ..... the folks who do your flash need to know exactly what your engine /trans/sprocket tec. are so they get the best possible results for you,.I'm sure you can even request 89 as your normal fuel ( but then less improvement ) . I would strongly suggest TALKING with the folks who are doing them , rather then getting opinions here ....... JMHO .... Mike :thumbup:
 
Cta delete and fuel

So, I am finally about to order the ECU flash as I've procrastinated as long as I can...And, I see some additional commentary that spawns these questions.

I have a cat delete which I removed because it was interfering with my hearing my music (I still have it.) Question: How much of the potential power do I lose by not having the cat delete installed. (Let me note that the low end is more important to me than the very top end.)

And, how much potential power increase is sacrificed if I select the 91 octane option vs. the standard 93?? It annoys me to pay the $ premium to select that top grade. But, I'll certainly continue to do it if it is substantially worth it.

Thanks

I have tested three different cat deletes and ALL LOOSE POWER . Starting power and low end suffer. I challenge ANYONE to show me proof that a cat delete gains any usable power. With close to 10,000 testing miles on two different bikes, I am a BIG fan of leaving the original cat in place.
The flashed ECU still uses the closed loop fueling parameters. I did not find any performance advantage using premium gas vs fresh 87 octane. Nor did I detect any ping. But, given the value of these machines, pure premium gas is what I use.
I sent you a pm with more info. here is some info on a different post.

I put on some Elka Shocks and installed the flashed ECU. Holy Crap what a transformation of speed and control.
Went to the test track and put up the following numbers today.
Stock 2016 F3L with the 89 tooth sprocket 102 mph: Flashed F3L 116 mph = 14 mph gain
last summer the RT did this.
Stock RT 89 mph: flashed RT 102 mph + 13 mph gain over stock; Summer time testing

Braking conditions sucked today and I had to pull up early on the flashed F3L. The Elka shocks inspired my confidence to safely test today under poor track conditions. As with the RT flash there is a huge USABLE power surge starting at 4000 rpm that really picks up at 5000 rpm and throws me back in my seat at 6,200 to red line. I have the cat in place with a Spyder1Attitude pipe which is quiet when needed and not too loud when piping it. While rolling along at 15 mph I can easily smoke the rear tire. Of course, I can smoke the rear wheel at will off the line.
What an F3S owner will notice is 3rd and 4th gear will pull to red line just as freely as your 1st and 2nd gear do now. My F3 Limited starts to load up with wind resistance in 5th gear around 7,600?? or 115 mph?? Kind of needed to keep two eyes on the road while in warp drive.

This is not about red line and top end but the USABLE FUN power gains in your real driving rpms. Like Hyperone says and I agree, I rode over 200 test miles today and I rarely found the need or space to shift above 6,200 rpm. I have to dissect the test video but 3rd or 4th gear now pulls from 30 mph to 90 mph really fast. In the real world for both the F3 and RT the need to down shift to get going is a thing of the past.

Baffles me why there isn't more interest in this product vs a $350 USD investment? For me, I'm just giddy and grin from ear to ear every time I open up the new bike. But reality is, I spend most of my miles just tooling around in low rpms. It sure is FUN to have it on tap without down shifting if a situation arises.
Dennis
 
Surprised you cannot feel the difference in performance between 93 and 87 octane. My bike that gets a regular diet of 93 has had to get by on 87 a couple of times when traveling. The performance loss is significant. I have heard folks that get by on 87 most of the time never feel an improvement with 93 when they try, it takes the ECU a significant length of time to increase timing once quality fuel is on board. Going from good fuel to 87 on the other hand results in knock that is sensed and de-tuned before you can even hear it. Within seconds of filling up and driving away.

As for the cat bypass, if you go with the baffle installed and ECU tuned for it, there is little difference in low end torque and upper range is adversely effected by the cat. Stated another way, installing the bypass with baffle does result in some low end torque loss but the tuning gets it back and then some.
 
I have tested three different cat deletes and ALL LOOSE POWER . Starting power and low end suffer.

As for the cat bypass, if you go with the baffle installed and ECU tuned for it, there is little difference in low end torque and upper range is adversely effected by the cat. Stated another way, installing the bypass with baffle does result in some low end torque loss but the tuning gets it back and then some.

Soon to be re-visited once I get my replacement mid-pipe from RLS in which he is installing a honeycomb style baffle insert for me..... On the original mid-pipe I did lose some low end in any gear except first if below 3000 rpm. It wasn't as pronounced as Dennis felt on his but still noticeable.
 
ECU Removal Process

OK, I just want to confirm that this is the ECU...I think it is?

IMG_2212.jpg

Next, one bolt is out but accessing the other two, especially the top one looks tough. Does that support type, large bracket need to be loosened?

And, the connectors for the wiring harnesses...it looks like the clip needs to be freed at the bottom and then rotated open. Is that it?
IMG_2216.jpg

Thanks for the help.
 
OK, I just want to confirm that this is the ECU...I think it is?

View attachment 159449

Next, one bolt is out but accessing the other two, especially the top one looks tough. Does that support type, large bracket need to be loosened?

And, the connectors for the wiring harnesses...it looks like the clip needs to be freed at the bottom and then rotated open. Is that it?
View attachment 159451

Thanks for the help.

You are on the right track. Yes, 2 of the bolts are not that easy but with patience they come out. I use a swivel socket on a small ratchet.

On the connectors, getting the rotating latch to release is the trick, once rotated 90deg the connectors come right off.

3 bolts, 2 connectors. Thats it.
 
Denis in Lodi said,

I did not find any performance advantage using premium gas vs fresh 87 octane. Nor did I detect any ping. But, given the value of these machines, pure premium gas is what I use.

What does the "Value of these Machines" have to do with the use of premium gas?????

Combustion chamber design and compression ratio in a normally aspirated gasoline fueled engine dictate the requirements for a higher Octane fuel and has nothing at all with the cost of the machine...........And again, there is no difference in the quality of "regular" vs "premium" other than, for all practical purposes how easy one is to light off, regular being easier and the speed of the flame front propagation, premium being slower.

Other than that, I am a big fan of ECU reflashing to optimize performance. :thumbup:
 
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