EBC Rotors and Fully Sintered Pads on 2015 F3.

[Sarge707]

"To bed in sintered pads, drive the vehicle carefully allowing extra braking distance for the first 300 miles. Please be aware that brake performance during the bed in period may be significantly less than you have been accustomed to. What you are looking for is to see a 90%+ surface area contact between the pad and the disc or rotor before optimum braking will be achieved.

Once your pads are 90% surface area bedded after the 300-400 miles, on a safe road, use the brakes 10 times in succession stopping your motorcycle from 60mph to 20mph to get the brakes deliberately hot. This is particularly important with the organic versions (aramid fibre types, carbon based pad types and semi-metallic pad types). After this process, the pads should settle down and normal riding and brake performance can be safely achieved."
ABOVE from EBC website!!

Installed the Rotors and Pads and followed the above today for 80 miles- Couple hundred miles to go. Relaxed riding, downshifting the sm6 , and Generally Very easy on the pedal. The 2015 are Fully sintered and when I got home the Rotors were cool and
started to show break in But Just Gotta be patient.
Anyone else have the experience with the 2013-2019 product??? Is there a different way for the Bremo Fully sintered Pads and Rotors?? Thanks ( Bajarons service and Prices can't be beat)

 

[JKMSPYDER]

I bought BajaRon's pads and rotors over a year ago. I don't remember any instructions about riding 300 too 400 miles before you do the 60mph to 20mph break in. After doing the break in 5 or 6 times after the installation my stopping power has been great! I love the EBC rotors and pads!

 

[GaryinWI]

Curious why most replace rotors along with pads? Are the rotors worn also past limit?

 

[PW2013STL]

I bought BajaRon's pads and rotors over a year ago. I don't remember any instructions about riding 300 too 400 miles before you do the 60mph to 20mph break in. After doing the break in 5 or 6 times after the installation my stopping power has been great! I love the EBC rotors and pads!

Same here.

 

[Mikey]

Same here.

X3 me to!! Must be some thing new

 

[Spyderlass]

X3 me to!! Must be some thing new

It's not. That's been the correct way to bed brake pads for umpteen years, folks are just impatient or simply don't know or think they know better. Choose which one is you! :yikes:

 

[pegasus1300]

I don't know about others but I replaced my front rotors because I had scored one of them and didn't want to replace just one side(bad idea). So glad I did, I now have great brakes. Thanks Baja Ron.

 

[Madison Sully]

It all depends on how out of flat the rotors are. When you buy a new vehicle they don't tell you how to break in the brakes, ever wonder why? Everything is flat and mated well. If there is ANY breaking in by the factory, it's a couple quick stops, none of this 300-400 miles stuff.

So if you put on new rotors and pads at the same time, break them in quick and you're fine.
But if you put new pads on your old rotors, as I said, 'it depends'.

 

[Spyderlass]

... When you buy a new vehicle they don't tell you how to break in the brakes, ever wonder why?

Don't they? So you don't have a break-in procedure in your Owners' Handbook, it applies to the whole vehicle not just the engine.

Everything is flat and mated well. If there is ANY breaking in by the factory, it's a couple quick stops, none of this 300-400 miles stuff.

Yer reckon! If you were to look at both the brake discs and the pad surface you'd see that they're both machined surfaces and not flat. Magnified they'd look like hills and valleys and only the tops of the hills will make contact until both the pad surface and the disc steel is polished flat, this takes time and should be done gently because there will be extremely high temperatures at the high pressure contact points of both surfaces. After polishing and bedding is achieved the pads need to be heated generally to condition the friction material for best performance.

..But if you put new pads on your old rotors, as I said, 'it depends'.

I'll go along with that. :thumbup:
Only the pad surface needs to wear away until there is full contact with the disc and that will depend on the amount of undulation on the disc wear surface. But, again, there will be extremely high temperatures initially at the limited contact surfaces.

So, treat them carefully until fully bedded then get them hot a few times.

 

[Madison Sully]

Magnified they'd look like hills and valleys

ANY surface magnified will look rough. It's a question of *HOW* rough.

As to break-in, no, the last several cars I have purchased had no break-in recommendations. Just turn the key and drive.
My last several vehicles, including cars, scooters, a motorcycle, and a Spyder, all got the same break-in.
Drive it home from wherever I got it, then use it normally, which for me means drive it on my work commute which is 130 miles round trip on I-90.
With regard to the rest, well you totally lose me at "polish"; that's the last thing I want in a brake surface. Smooth maybe, flat for sure, but polished? Nope.

I suppose if I was racing I'd care more, but I'm not so I don't.

 

[petegtsv10]

I'm always amazed at the number of people that have suggestions contrary to the manufacturers who have a stake in their products performing optimally. With the HH pads, the 3-400- miles is a good idea for the best performance. (why would anyone want less than the best from their brakes??) Additionally, after your 10 60-20 mph stops, it's important to let the brakes cool as much as possible before using them again. That is easy on a bike with separate front and rear brakes, but not as easy on a Can-Am.