Simple, inexpensive fix
There is/are a/some previous thread(s) on here which explained the simplest, least expensive 'fix' yet seen to effectively lower the brake pedal. Simply take the brake rod off by disconnecting the pins at the front and back ends. Then drill a hole of the same diameter through the sides of the "U-shaped" forward end (clevis/jaw) of the rod about 5/16" (maybe 3/8" max) closer to the 'throat'. You can do this job with just about any hand-held power drill and a decent bit; use some sewing machine oil (or similar) to lubricate the point of the drill bit. It may help to use a punch or even a stout nail to 'mark' or 'start' the center of the new hole you intend to drill. You need to drill both sides of the jaw (i.e., 2 holes), so be sure to follow straight through, keeping them properly aligned. The work is not difficult, nor heavy, nor time-consuming. The result will drop your brake pedal about an inch. What you are doing with the new hole is effectively shortening the brake rod.
Disclaimer: if you do this, you do it at your own risk and at your own volition; I'm simply describing one possible 'fix'. And, yes, I did it; and it works! My pedal is lower, the brake action is the same, my right foot is faster; I can 'rock' the ball of my foot higher with my heel still on the floorboard and simply slide it over to apply the brake. No lifting necessary. Prior to this, there were times at the end of a long ride when braking was slower and took effort, thus losing time. For me, drilling the hole has meant a decided improvement. In fact, I drilled a new hole at each end of the rod, but found that I could only really use the new front hole. Warning: Don't be too greedy and try to move the new hole much closer than 3/8" o/c toward the jaw. If you get too close to the jaw, there isn't enough room for the pedal arm to swivel on the pin, and you may be in danger of the arm binding or jamming. If that happens, you may need to file a thin strip off the rear face of the arm in order to gain back the necessary flexibility and freedom of movement. That also explains the reason I couldn't use the new hole drilled through the rear clevis connection - the forward side of the rear plate is broad, so much so that I couldn't connect the arm to the new hole without substantial filing, which I chose not to do. And, in any event, I didn't need the extra 'shortening' of the brake rod; using the new front hole was plenty enough to drop the pedal where I needed it to be. At the same time, you do need to ensure that your new hole is not too close to the original; leave a modicum of space between them.
I believe a number of others have previously done the same with similar results, and I thank them for the inspiration to attempt their solution for myself.
Good luck.
, and b) that would change my sitting position for the worse (increasing the bend of my hips, which ache already).
