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Dynabeads made my balance worse

S

Spyder Monkey

New member
Sigh. Looking for opinions on what next.

10 days or so ago I changed the rear tire to a Falken. I took the wheel off myself and a few mistakes / swear words, I got the wheel and new tire to the local tire shop. The local tire shop did not have the correct adapter / tool to balance the tire so they gave it back to me mounted but unbalanced. I pried the old weights (2oz) off because I had no idea if they would help or hurt

After a little research, I decided to give dynabeads a try so I ordered 4 ounces plus applicator plus valve stem. I rode the Spyder unbalanced for a few days while I waited for the Dynabeads to arrive. There was a minor vibration / tingle about 35-40 mph but was actually surprisingly smooth. I took it up to 75mph and no real problems.

I should have left well enough alone but I went ahead and installed the Dynabeads last night before my road trip from Houston to Tyler. I followed the directions and installed about 3 ounces of the beads.

Now my vibration / tingling is MUCH worse. My hands were going numb after a couple of hours of riding...

So now I am contemplating my next move...
1. Pull the tire again and remove the beads and go with a conventional balance.
2. Pull the tire and add more / remove some beads.
3. Add Ride On goo and pray for the best?

Open to ideas or any suggestions of what I did wrong.

David

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2
 
Find a shop that can balance your tire. I have been balancing tires for 40 years and have not seen anything that has really worked besides weights and or shaving tires,
 
I'm absolutely not saying you are wrong, but I find it difficult to imagine a rear tire out of balance making your hands tingle & go numb.

Are you sure it is a rear wheel balance problem.
 
WHAT I DID

I can't speak for the dyna-beads pro or con !....The rear wheel/tire is somewhat difficult to balance because of the size......I had a Mtc shop do mine because they had the right size cones,....But I bet you could get away with the old style bubble type balancer if you can find one......But I would remove the beads......JMHO ..Mike :thumbup:
 
I am running the Falcen on the rear also. Just removed all of the weights and added RideOn and Allison well.
 
THAT PERSON

RAYYOU said:
I am running the Falcen on the rear also. Just removed all of the weights and added RideOn and Allison well.
Click to expand...

Who is Allison Well.?????????:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: :shemademe_smilie::gaah: :agree:....Mike...:thumbup:
 
Dyna beads will wear the radial ridges off the inside of your tire....I've dumped the beads out of old tires and found a large amount of small rubber balls (about the same size as the beads) and the inside of the tire was smooth....no ridges.

Not saying this is a good thing or a bad thing....:dontknow:
 
Bubble Balance & wheel weights are the only way to go.. Keep in mind that all the parts need to be in place when the tire is balanced. JMHO, being I'm ":doorag: "from the oleskool
 
dannymax said:
Dyna beads will wear the radial ridges off the inside of your tire....I've dumped the beads out of old tires and found a large amount of small rubber balls (about the same size as the beads) and the inside of the tire was smooth....no ridges.

Not saying this is a good thing or a bad thing....:dontknow:
Click to expand...

:agree: I read the same thing about Dyna Beads because they fall to the bottom of the tire every time you stop!
Counteract Beads (I recommend) are lighter, smaller and electrically charged to stick to the walls of the tire for up to 2 weeks before falling back down. You do your research and you make your own decision?:dontknow:
 
I cannot understand why balancing beads....of any kind....will add counterbalance weight to the lightest part of the tire. It seems like they would go to the heaviest part and make the imbalance worse.

The theory of relativity gives me a little trouble but this bead balancing thing totally stumps me! :dontknow::banghead::dontknow:
 
I have resigned myself that I have to pull the tire, dump the beads, and get a conventional balance. In my particular area, there are plenty of automotive tire shops but the nearest cycle shop is about 30 minutes away. So what got me in this mess in the first place is the tire shop did not have the ability to balance my tire. So if I want to call a couple of automotive shops in my area before I drive an hour round trip, what do I need to ask them to know if they can balance the Spyder tire? Just tell them in has about a 2" axle? Is there a specific adapter I can ask if they have to handle this tire type on their balancer?

To be honest, I expected it to work after doing a fair amount of research. I may have convinced myself what I wanted to believe but I had a reasonable dynamic model in my head where the beads should work.

Image this ridiculous scenario:

You are holding an electric drill where a 2 foot rod is attached in its center like a propeller blade. When you spin the drill, the rod's weight is evenly balanced so you don't get any uneven forces pulling or pushing your drill up, down, forward or back.

Now image you attach a 1 pound weight at the end of the rod representing a severe imbalance. Now when you spin the drill, you will get significant torquing of the drill in your hands because it will want to conserve energy and move the light drill around the heavy imbalance. Since the load is imbalanced and the center of rotation is not fixed (like it is on a static tire balancer), physics will try to conserve energy and try to make the drill and the weight move around each other. This means if you trace the "light" (unloaded) end of the rod in space, it actually will have a longer radius from the center of rotation because the center of rotation is no longer the drill chuck, it is some point between the drill chuck and the heavy weight.

That is how the beads work. In a spinning tire, the lightest spot should have the longest radius from the center of rotation of the unbalanced system. Longer radius means the free moving beads settle in the that spot. Which should cause the loads to balance (unless you don't have enough mass of beads or the tire is severely imbalanced).

So anyway, to get back on the question I wanted help with, how do I find out if an automotive tire shop can balance my spyder tire short of driving from shop to shop until one says yes?

David
 
I replaced my rear tire in April with a Toyo. The dealer's normal tire shop was not open on Saturday, so they took it somewhere else. After a few tries, the tire shop said they couldn't balance it, so the dealer added Dynabeads without telling me. I know he thought he was doing me a favor (he's a good guy), but had I known ahead of time, I would have told him not to bother because I was going to install RideOn anyway.

Now I can't do that without pulling the wheel, removing the beads and reinstalling everything. :gaah:

"Tech Day" project???
 
Spyder Monkey said:
I have resigned myself that I have to pull the tire, dump the beads, and get a conventional balance. In my particular area, there are plenty of automotive tire shops but the nearest cycle shop is about 30 minutes away. So what got me in this mess in the first place is the tire shop did not have the ability to balance my tire. So if I want to call a couple of automotive shops in my area before I drive an hour round trip, what do I need to ask them to know if they can balance the Spyder tire? Just tell them in has about a 2" axle? Is there a specific adapter I can ask if they have to handle this tire type on their balancer?

To be honest, I expected it to work after doing a fair amount of research. I may have convinced myself what I wanted to believe but I had a reasonable dynamic model in my head where the beads should work.

Image this ridiculous scenario:

You are holding an electric drill where a 2 foot rod is attached in its center like a propeller blade. When you spin the drill, the rod's weight is evenly balanced so you don't get any uneven forces pulling or pushing your drill up, down, forward or back.

Now image you attach a 1 pound weight at the end of the rod representing a severe imbalance. Now when you spin the drill, you will get significant torquing of the drill in your hands because it will want to conserve energy and move the light drill around the heavy imbalance. Since the load is imbalanced and the center of rotation is not fixed (like it is on a static tire balancer), physics will try to conserve energy and try to make the drill and the weight move around each other. This means if you trace the "light" (unloaded) end of the rod in space, it actually will have a longer radius from the center of rotation because the center of rotation is no longer the drill chuck, it is some point between the drill chuck and the heavy weight.

That is how the beads work. In a spinning tire, the lightest spot should have the longest radius from the center of rotation of the unbalanced system. Longer radius means the free moving beads settle in the that spot. Which should cause the loads to balance (unless you don't have enough mass of beads or the tire is severely imbalanced).

So anyway, to get back on the question I wanted help with, how do I find out if an automotive tire shop can balance my spyder tire short of driving from shop to shop until one says yes?

David
Click to expand...

Now that makes perfect sense....thanks for the explanation. :thumbup:
 
Realize two things though:

1 that explanation is entirely a work of educated guessing of someone totally unqualified (me)

2 I can't explain why my situation got worse with the beads.

I am going to email dynabeads and see if I can get any suggestions from them.

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2
 
we've run Dynobeads from day one. no issues in any of the 3 tires. are you sure 3 oz is all that is required in the REAR tire? is that the tire in question? I would think that it needs more.

wonder if something else like belt alignment when reinstalling is the issue.
 
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