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Dual USB Power Outlet in Dash
- Thread starter KJWEB
- Start date
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
USB POWER
Since USB devices draw very little power I don't why not .........Mike :thumbup:
Since USB devices draw very little power I don't why not .........Mike :thumbup:
KJWEB
New member
I was not planning to remove my fuel gauge. I just wanted to tap in to the fuel gauge for power and ground with the above USB power port. I know smart phones do not draw more than 1 amp or a tad more.
OverHillAndDale
Member
The draw for a USB port is never more than 1.8 amps (with an output of 500 milliamps), but your add-on USB port probably pulls less so you should have a little wiggle room. It is normally less than one amp for a cell phone or GPS.
Since many of the add-on USB chargers fit in place of one of the gauges and the gauges pull almost nothing, I think you'll be well within tolerance to add this on. Of course, if it melts your Spyder into a worthless pile of steel and plastic it's not my fault.
Since many of the add-on USB chargers fit in place of one of the gauges and the gauges pull almost nothing, I think you'll be well within tolerance to add this on. Of course, if it melts your Spyder into a worthless pile of steel and plastic it's not my fault.
finless
New member
Well first off do not quote incorrect USB specs. 1.8 amps is not true anymore!
And by the way 500 milliamps is .5 AMPs not 1.8.
For instance, the iPhone 6 Plus, Apple tablets, etc all require a minimum of 2.1 AMPs to charge!
USB plugs do NOT have current control in them. If you wire a USB plug to a 12V source the "device" you plug in will draw what it needs to. So do not think you are protected because it is a USB plug!!!! Also do not think that any device you plug in will limit it's AMP draw to 1.8 AMPs. Not true anymore folks! So be careful!
Now, in 2015 they changed the gauges on the RT. I would not tap into the wires on these new gauges as they run through the cluster and are not mean to power anything.
The new 2015 gauges no longer have a "light bulb". They are self powered with a LED inside now. The new gauges are a 3 wire system not a 4 wire like previous years.
The previous year RT's had a 4 wire system. 3 wires for the gauge signal to the cluster and a 4th single stab on connector wire to power the light bulb. This single wire did not run through the cluster so it was safe to use to power USB devices.
Basically the pre-2015 gauges had a triangular plug which had 3 wires in it. The middle wire on that plug was ground and can be used for 12V ground connection. The other two wires are gauge wires. Yes one is 12V to power the internal gauge and the other is a signal wire, which by the way if you use a volt meter on either you will get "about" 12v as a reading on both. THESE TWO run through the cluster!
Then there was the single "stab on" connector wire. This powers the light bulb in the gauge. This does not run through the cluster and is fused with other lights at the fuse box.
The new gauges have a single square connector plug and only 3 wires.
Now with that said, some may have used one of the 3 wires on the new gauges to power a USB port. But I personally would NOT do that based on what I said above about how a device can now easily demand higher currents from power source than 1.8 AMPs. You may be OK with older or smaller devices that will not draw more than say .5 AMPs but if you plug in something that demands more like a iPhone 6 Plus, you risk possible damage to your cluster!
Bob
And by the way 500 milliamps is .5 AMPs not 1.8.
For instance, the iPhone 6 Plus, Apple tablets, etc all require a minimum of 2.1 AMPs to charge!
USB plugs do NOT have current control in them. If you wire a USB plug to a 12V source the "device" you plug in will draw what it needs to. So do not think you are protected because it is a USB plug!!!! Also do not think that any device you plug in will limit it's AMP draw to 1.8 AMPs. Not true anymore folks! So be careful!
Now, in 2015 they changed the gauges on the RT. I would not tap into the wires on these new gauges as they run through the cluster and are not mean to power anything.
The new 2015 gauges no longer have a "light bulb". They are self powered with a LED inside now. The new gauges are a 3 wire system not a 4 wire like previous years.
The previous year RT's had a 4 wire system. 3 wires for the gauge signal to the cluster and a 4th single stab on connector wire to power the light bulb. This single wire did not run through the cluster so it was safe to use to power USB devices.
Basically the pre-2015 gauges had a triangular plug which had 3 wires in it. The middle wire on that plug was ground and can be used for 12V ground connection. The other two wires are gauge wires. Yes one is 12V to power the internal gauge and the other is a signal wire, which by the way if you use a volt meter on either you will get "about" 12v as a reading on both. THESE TWO run through the cluster!
Then there was the single "stab on" connector wire. This powers the light bulb in the gauge. This does not run through the cluster and is fused with other lights at the fuse box.
The new gauges have a single square connector plug and only 3 wires.
Now with that said, some may have used one of the 3 wires on the new gauges to power a USB port. But I personally would NOT do that based on what I said above about how a device can now easily demand higher currents from power source than 1.8 AMPs. You may be OK with older or smaller devices that will not draw more than say .5 AMPs but if you plug in something that demands more like a iPhone 6 Plus, you risk possible damage to your cluster!
Bob
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OverHillAndDale
Member
I'm NOT WORTHY!!!
Please ignore my previous post and listen to WHAT HE SAID!!:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:
Please ignore my previous post and listen to WHAT HE SAID!!:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:
Rawhide kid
New member
Hmmmmm
so Bob what is the best way to wire In a USB hub safely, in the dash? I bought a hub.
Ill look around on SL to see if this has been discussed already. Apologize if it has.
so Bob what is the best way to wire In a USB hub safely, in the dash? I bought a hub.
Ill look around on SL to see if this has been discussed already. Apologize if it has.
finless
New member
In my opinion there is a fused and reasonable connection you can tap into.
That is the power wires that run to the front trunk to power the optional cig lighter plug you can get for the Frunk.
The wires are there on all models just the cig plug is not.
Bob
JayBros
Well-known member
That's exactly where I keep mine; one less piece of junk to lug around when off the bike. I haven't even changed the fuse to make the socket always hot.
Bob didn't know there was power in the Fruck. Are the wires for this under the Fruck liner, and if so do you know what color they are? Also do these run to the back of bike somewhere? Would appreciate your input. I have 2012 RT Limited.
billybovine
Active member
It's not in the front trunk it's behind it. Tie strapped to a left side frame member.
NM Wrench
New member
Frunk Power
I got a cigarette lighter power outlet on ebay much cheaper than BRP. I installed it in the frunk. There is a rubber cover over the hole for the power port on the right side as you are facing the frunk. Taking the battery out helps a lot but can be done without removing it. Just makes it hard to get the rubber boot over the wire connections. Once you remover the plug you can see the boot and the wires are tucked inside it I was able to pull them out. Take the battery cover off and you can get your hand behind to put the locking ring over the wires then plug them in. insert port into hole and thread the ring onto it and tighten. Once done slip the rubber boot over the back of it to help to keep the wires from corroding when getting wet. Took me all of about 15 minutes and it is powered all the time if you move the fuse so I am assuming it is tied into the one in the rear trunk! I hope this helps.
I got a cigarette lighter power outlet on ebay much cheaper than BRP. I installed it in the frunk. There is a rubber cover over the hole for the power port on the right side as you are facing the frunk. Taking the battery out helps a lot but can be done without removing it. Just makes it hard to get the rubber boot over the wire connections. Once you remover the plug you can see the boot and the wires are tucked inside it I was able to pull them out. Take the battery cover off and you can get your hand behind to put the locking ring over the wires then plug them in. insert port into hole and thread the ring onto it and tighten. Once done slip the rubber boot over the back of it to help to keep the wires from corroding when getting wet. Took me all of about 15 minutes and it is powered all the time if you move the fuse so I am assuming it is tied into the one in the rear trunk! I hope this helps.
Lew L
Well-known member
Funny thing about electricty------- the electromotive force ( voltage ) can be in the wire, ready to go BUT if there is no current ( amperage ) draw---- NO electricty will flow, but it's ready to. A cig lighter, with nothing in it will not complete a circuit and not draw down a battery. You're safe.
I have cig plugs in both trunks and a USB cig plug adapter handy.
Lew L
I have cig plugs in both trunks and a USB cig plug adapter handy.
Lew L
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glorybiz
New member
I added the Dual USB/voltmeter combo so I can monitor the battery and alternator. plugged into the gas meter power and frame ground. you can get it on EBAY
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-24V-4-...-p3N4T_vADvy7OKZrOew:rk:2:pf:1&frcectupt=true
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-24V-4-...-p3N4T_vADvy7OKZrOew:rk:2:pf:1&frcectupt=true
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