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Draining the oil

PLUGS

I have heard of several Dimple plugs breaking at the O ring indentation, but no Gold Plugs to my knowledge. In following other threads about this, the consensus is that the Gold Plugs are thicker where the O rings go. I have the Gold Plugs and have never had an issue. Just my 2 cents.
 
I have heard of several Dimple plugs breaking at the O ring indentation, but no Gold Plugs to my knowledge. In following other threads about this, the consensus is that the Gold Plugs are thicker where the O rings go. I have the Gold Plugs and have never had an issue. Just my 2 cents.

The basic design with the magnet hole behind the o-ring is the same. This plug has the threads on the far end of the plug so all torque must pass through this thin wall section. Bad design. Eliminate the extrainous hole for the not needed magnet and I will use them. Until then I have no reason to risk liability for a several thousand dollar repair in removing a sheared plug for risking the installation of a known inferior part.

We will stick with OEM only on the engine side for now. And yes, I have seen a Gold Plug shear there. Its stronger than dimple but still has the problem.
 
The basic design with the magnet hole behind the o-ring is the same. This plug has the threads on the far end of the plug so all torque must pass through this thin wall section. Bad design. Eliminate the extrainous hole for the not needed magnet and I will use them. Until then I have no reason to risk liability for a several thousand dollar repair in removing a sheared plug for risking the installation of a known inferior part.

We will stick with OEM only on the engine side for now. And yes, I have seen a Gold Plug shear there. Its stronger than dimple but still has the problem.

I appreciate the real-world experience, jc. So, where is the failure point on this design? I would think the weak point in this would be where the o-ring groove is right below the threads--but this would be the same on the OEM as well.

MP18.jpg
 
The weak point is right where you think it is, at the o-ring groove. The reason the Dimple and Gold plugs are worse than OEM is the end of the plug is drilled to insert a magnet. The drilled hole is behind that o-ring groove. Thus the thin wall section the torque must pass through and were the plug shears off inside the engine. Its a major tear down to get the threaded remains of that plug out.

Just FYI, your picture did not post correctly. Cannot see it.
 
Drain plugs - which is which and what torque on each?

Drain plug o-rings.jpg oil filter housing cap.jpg engine sump drain plug.jpg Spyder oil change.jpg
Looking at the diagram in the shop manual, it seems to have the location of the two plugs backwards.

On my 2014RT, the non-magnetic oil sump plug with two O-rings and a crush washer, using a T-45 wrench, is on the left side of the frame, not the right.

The smaller magnetic clutch cover plug with just the crush washer (no O-rings), using a 6mm hex wrench, is on the right side of the frame, not the left.

When I removed the clutch cover drain plug, it took a lot of force to break it loose. But the torque spec for reinserting it is only 15 ft-lbs. Doesn't seem like enough torque to seat the washer properly.

So, before I refill with the new oil and bring the bike back down off the jacks, can someone confirm for me that 15 ft-lbs for the clutch housing plug and 21 ft-lbs for the engine sump plug are correct?

Thanks.
 
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Looking at the diagram in the shop manual, it seems to have the location of the two plugs backwards.

On my 2014RT, the non-magnetic oil sump plug with two O-rings and a crush washer, using a T-45 wrench, is on the left side of the frame, not the right.

The smaller magnetic clutch cover plug with just the crush washer (no O-rings), using a 6mm hex wrench, is on the right side of the frame, not the left.

When I removed the clutch cover drain plug, it took a lot of force to break it loose. But the torque spec for reinserting it is only 15 ft-lbs. Doesn't seem like enough torque to seat the washer properly.

So, before I refill with the new oil and bring the bike back down off the jacks, can someone confirm for me that 15 ft-lbs for the clutch housing plug and 21 ft-lbs for the engine sump plug are correct?

Thanks.


That is the correct tension settings as your quote :clap:

15 ft-lbs for the clutch housing plug and 21 ft-lbs for the engine sump plug are correct?
 
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