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Draining the oil
- Thread starter Dray
- Start date
Doc - Riverside
New member
Torx T-45 for the engine plug (the plug with the 2 o-rings). The transmission is a 5 or 6 mm allen.
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jcthorne
Well-known member
ofdave
New member
does the SM6 have a filter for the trans?
jcthorne
Well-known member
No, only the SE has the trans filter.
Lamonster
SpyderLovers Founder
This might help too.
http://www.lamonstergarage.com/news/f3-and-1330-oil-change-video/
http://www.lamonstergarage.com/news/f3-and-1330-oil-change-video/
EricP
New member
Topside Fluid Extraction?
Any benefit here to using a topside fluid extractor instead of draining?
There is on my older BMWs as I can change oil and oil filter w/o ever getting under the vehicles / low to the ground, but not sure if I should even worry about trying to use it on my Spyder....
Any benefit here to using a topside fluid extractor instead of draining?
There is on my older BMWs as I can change oil and oil filter w/o ever getting under the vehicles / low to the ground, but not sure if I should even worry about trying to use it on my Spyder....
JayBros
Well-known member
Forget it on your Spyder! Pull the plugs and let it all drain out.
EricP
New member
Cool - will do.
Just curious why.....
..from Lamont's video, I can see that the filter is accessible from top-side, but there's 2 drain plugs - maybe the dipstick tube doesn't reach the very bottom so it would be too hard to get all the oil out (that your thinking)?
Just curious why from your perspective.
AeroPilot
Member
Have tried the Pella Extractor on the 1330 engine - I only get 3.5 Qts out
I have an extractor that works well on lots of small engines to provide seasonal service. On some of those there is not a bottom sump plug so getting the oil out is a chore.
The 1330 engine has multiple scavenge pumps and apparently sumps as the most I have removed is 3.5 qts out of the 5 Qt oil change capacity by using the filler tube entry. The extractor does assist by reducing the drain volume and can be used to suck out other reservoirs.
I have an extractor that works well on lots of small engines to provide seasonal service. On some of those there is not a bottom sump plug so getting the oil out is a chore.
The 1330 engine has multiple scavenge pumps and apparently sumps as the most I have removed is 3.5 qts out of the 5 Qt oil change capacity by using the filler tube entry. The extractor does assist by reducing the drain volume and can be used to suck out other reservoirs.
EricP
New member
Awesome. Thanks for that detailed opinion AeroPilot. That helps me understand better.
JayBros
Well-known member
Cool - will do...Just curious why from your perspective.
Aeropilot explained about the scavenge pumps. What these pumps do, among other things, is get all the oil in the engine to where it's supposed to be in order to accurately measure the level in the engine once it is turned off. The dipstick, as well as that suction tube from an external extractor go into the engine oil tank. About two minutes after an engine at normal operating temperature is turned off, oil from the oil tank begins to run back into the dry sump of the engine. Since you can't maneuver the suction tube from the external extractor into the dry sump, you leave oil in the engine. There's no sense in letting that old worn oil contaminate a fresh batch of lubricant. Additionally, the OEM transmission, a.k.a. clutch cover plug, has a magnet on it, as do Gold Plug and Dimple Plug engine drain plugs. Even though those magnets are generally quite clean on oil changes after the first oil change at 3,000 miles, it's very wise to inspect both (if you've installed such plugs) just to be certain you don't find any signs that something may be going awry in your very expensive engine.
rustynail51
Member
a some what related question
Is there an EZ drain for the spyder and has any one used it
Is there an EZ drain for the spyder and has any one used it
JayBros
Well-known member
If the EZ drain is one of those valve things there was small discussion about it quite awhile ago and some folks objected to the fact that it extends below the frame where striking a road object could possible do some severe damage to the engine casing. I'm satisfied with my Dimple plugs.
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Dmetcalf
Member
this is exactly what I did and I’m glad I did it. It will be much simlier next time (15mm & 17mm).
jcthorne
Well-known member
We will not install the Dimple or Gold plugs in the engine side. The one with 2 o-rings. Both manufactures install a magnet inside the plug, the bore for the magnet is too close to the o-ring groove and the plug easily shears off with little torque. If they made one without the magnet ie solid and a hex head it would help but as is, there have been too many failures. When a customer comes to us with one in the bike, IF it comes out in one piece we hand it to the customer and install a new oem plug. Will not put them in for liability reasons.
Suggest avoiding the magnetic plugs on the engine side. The clutch side already has a magnetic plug from the factory.
If you use the correct tools to remove the plugs, there is no problem at all with the factory plugs.
Suggest avoiding the magnetic plugs on the engine side. The clutch side already has a magnetic plug from the factory.
If you use the correct tools to remove the plugs, there is no problem at all with the factory plugs.
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