Draining Oil vs Sucking up oil .....

[Motogordo]

Sept. 1, 2021

I called a Spyder dealer out of state and asked them how they drain the oil on their Spyders ? They said they suck the oil out of the dipstick tube. They also said they don't have the problem of oil on the bottom of the Spyder when draining underneath. It is also less work for the service department and in return the labor rate charge to the customer is less. However, I don't see any less because I don't know that the dealers charge who actually drain out the bottom. They also said the drain plug is magnetic and catches the small metal particles. What is the opinion of the other Spyder Ryders out there ?

Motogordo
When I had my 3,000 mile service, the charge was $ 250.......

 

[EdMat]

DON'T USE THAT DEALER!!!!!! IF THEY DO THAT THEY ARE IDIOTS. Guess they could charge less when they only replace part of the oil.

Now if they start off sucking it out and then finish by removing both drain plugs that would be a different story.

 

[trikermutha]

Yep as mentioned there are two drain plugs. Its good to clean off the magnetic plug each time too.

So they are getting the oil out of the engine side and not the transmission side. May not be much but its good to do both.

Really how much labor is it to loosen two drain plugs .

 

[Sarge707]

I did that on my 2015 F3 last summer and you can extract 4 quarts of the 5 required IF you do it right after a ride. Then I change the filter and use valvoline 10x40Syntehtic. I didn,t do this the first 3 changes but I only go 3,000 miles a year on the F3 because I also have the Ryker so 4 of 5 quarts and new filter every summer is probably over kill. I change the Ryker oil and Gear oil every 3,000 -3,500 or yearly.

 

[JayBros]

EdMat is exactly right. Because of experience in a previous incarnation I knew using a suction system WOULD NOT get all of the oil out of a dry sump system but for the hell of it I did it on a previous oil change just to see how much I would get out when I removed the crankcase and clutch cove plugs. I did not measure what came out of the plug drain holes but what came out of the suction apparatus was slightly less than four quarts. The engine had five quarts and eight ounces in it when I began the job because that's what I had installed in it, and it used absolutely no oil between the changes as it the routine with a correctly functioning 1330 ACE engine. In the Corps we used to say that since there is no cure for terminal stupidity is should be a court martial offense.

 

[canamjhb]

This subject came up 2 or 3 years ago. You can probably find it by doing a search. I had a dealer who told me the same thing and did a suck job on my bike. Then I went directly to BRP asking if this was an APPROVED method in order to keep my warranty in effect. IT WAS NOT! I took that information back to the offending dealer and they changed my oil correctly.... on their dime..... Jim


Do a search on this forum "Oil Extraction" from 12/18 and you will see information on this.....

 

[pidjones]

It was a one-hour job to do the oil change myself (the first time - should get quicker in the future). Oil, filter, and seal cost well less than $50. Even including the purchase of 6" Harbor Freight ramps (I needed them anyway) I got out less than half of what the dealer would charge, and know that everything is done correctly. Something tells me they don't assign their top techs to oil changes.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Here are two threads that will explain why the suction method (pardon the pun!) sucks.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...by-suctioning/page2&highlight=suck+oil+change

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?130192-oil-capacity-1330&highlight=dry+sump+tank

 

[K80Shooter]

It was a one-hour job to do the oil change myself (the first time - should get quicker in the future). Oil, filter, and seal cost well less than $50. Even including the purchase of 6" Harbor Freight ramps (I needed them anyway) I got out less than half of what the dealer would charge, and know that everything is done correctly. Something tells me they don't assign their top techs to oil changes.

After being in fleet maintenance for over half of my life I will say, you sir are correct.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

EdMat is exactly right. Because of experience in a previous incarnation I knew using a suction system WOULD NOT get all of the oil out of a dry sump system but for the hell of it I did it on a previous oil change just to see how much I would get out when I removed the crankcase and clutch cove plugs. I did not measure what came out of the plug drain holes but what came out of the suction apparatus was slightly less than four quarts. The engine had five quarts and eight ounces in it when I began the job because that's what I had installed in it, and it used absolutely no oil between the changes as it the routine with a correctly functioning 1330 ACE engine. In the Corps we used to say that since there is no cure for terminal stupidity is should be a court martial offense.

:agree: X's 10 ...... Mike :thumbup:

 

[ARtraveler]

Sorry, looks like yet another red flag from your dealer.

 

[2dogs]

The only things I use the sucking method on are the jet ski and patio boat. Why? Because it sucks to change the oil any other way.

 

[ulflyer]

Works well on a lot of cars, but not on the 1330cc. Like Jaybro said it will get nearly 4 qts out if you do it immediately after riding. It is easy tho, and if one were to change oil frequently I don't think it would matter; perhaps with an occasional dump from the bottom two drain plugs.

 

[Bfromla]

This subject came up 2 or 3 years ago. You can probably find it by doing a search. I had a dealer who told me the same thing and did a suck job on my bike. Then I went directly to BRP asking if this was an APPROVED method in order to keep my warranty in effect. IT WAS NOT! I took that information back to the offending dealer and they changed my oil correctly.... on their dime..... Jim



Do a search on this forum "Oil Extraction" from 12/18 and you will see information on this.....

found

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?110496-Dealer-just-lost-all-my-future-business


Incorrect, incomplete & incompetence. Probably voiding warranty :lecturef_smilie::dontknow:opcorn: fact they admitted & try excuse as cheaper is almost scary. Wonder if they check spark plug wires by licking them:roflblack:
RUN away to say the least & hopefully new dealer can verify/fix anything they messed up.

 

[spyder01]

I also found that sucking the oil would not get it all but after doing that when I went to drain the oil from the plugs I didnt have a whole lot to drain so I was able to use a very shallow drain pan which could fit under the Spyder without any jacking up and that saved time.The hardest part of oil change is the lifting and the removal of the covers over filter so ive now only got to deal with the covers which isnt too bad once you do few times.

 

[bikerbillone]

Hmmm, interesting concept of sucking out and then do the drain. I'm thinking, getting under the machine to remove the drain plugs, gotta be a tight fit, or maybe you just remove the drain plugs by reaching up under?

 

[JayBros]

Hmmm, interesting concept of sucking out and then do the drain. I'm thinking, getting under the machine to remove the drain plugs, gotta be a tight fit, or maybe you just remove the drain plugs by reaching up under?

Get a pair of car ramps and run the Spyder up on them. The drain plugs are on the rearward side of the engine so the fact that the Spyder is not level is inconsequential.

 

[bikerbillone]

Right on Jay, I have the car ramps, so I'm good to go to attack it at the appropriate time. Do I go to Baha Ron for the kit?

 

[larryd]

On marine engines, (NOT OUTBOARDS) they have special dip stick tubes that go to the bottom of the oil pans and special fitting that allows for the attachment of the vacuum pumps to the dip stick tube to extract ALL the oil...Our Spyders do not have the accommodation to vacuum all the oil from the system...larryd

 

[spyder01]

Hmmm, interesting concept of sucking out and then do the drain. I'm thinking, getting under the machine to remove the drain plugs, gotta be a tight fit, or maybe you just remove the drain plugs by reaching up under?

I have a garage floor that is very smooth and the ramps tend to slide so I try not to use them.It is a tight fit but if you use a small drain pan which is ok bc your
not draining that much, then for me its very easy to lay on my side and get one hand under to undo the plugs.I used a yellow paint marker to make a dot on the side of the plastic splash guard so I can easily see where the plug is without getting my head under the bike at all.I use a West Marine oil drainer which I also used on my boat(sold),used on the wifes car ,my truck,etc.Ive used it to drain oil,brake fluid,antifreeze,gear oil,trans fluid,very handy to have around.