DPS recall, anyone else had it done yet?

[NancysToy]

Took my bike in for the "trying to pull the handlebar straight" issue and dealer received the recall that night. He had to wait on parts because recall was so new, but he told me mine was first in line. He knows that it is my main mode of transportation. (I can't give enough props to my dealer here in Amarillo, has been great)

Anyway, the part arrived two days later and it only took him half a day or less to replace the unit once it came in. When I picked my bike up, I noticed the same thing the rest of you are commenting on, it was much more responsive and stable. I also realized I was going to have to "relearn" how to ride it.

Unfortunately, that only lasted about a day and a half and it went back to intermittently trying to yank the handlebars straight when I was leaving parking lots/turning from a stop sign and high steering effort when cornering (even gentle sweepers) on the open road, again intermittently. I never know how much boost is going to be there at any one time. I rode it for a week or so trying to make sure it wasn't me or the bike setup.

Called dealer finally and he told me that others have had to reset the sensors more than once, so I took it back to him once I had a chance, which was last Monday. Again, got about a day and a half of great handling and steering response and now the old issue is back. Haven't had a chance to call the dealer again yet.

I have General AltimaxHP (185/60R14) on the front. I was running at about 16psi before the change out, but bumped it up to 19psi the same day I got it back because of ride/cornering characteristics that became noticeable once I wasn't having to fight the steering any longer. Still have completely stock front end (shocks, bearings, sway bar) but no looseness noted. Anyone else with automotive, slightly oversize tires on the front had the replacement done and the issue show back up? Just a nagging thought I have that maybe that extra contact patch is somehow causing the DPS to prematurely fail.

May be relevant, may not be, I also lock the handlebars every time I park the bike. I only pull it to the stop and back to center with power on though.:dontknow: Just slightly stumped now, am I simply out riding the design limits of the bike (doesn't sound like it, sounds like Raptor rides the same way I do) or is something else going on?

I suppose the larger tires could be causing you problems, but the problems would always be there, not come and go...except perhaps when the road surface varied. My guess is either a bad ground connection, a bad wiring connector or wire...to the DPS or a sensor, or a bad sensor itself. Your tech needs to dig a little deeper. Reset after reset will not be a cure, IMO. Also, check your battery for tight connections and clean terminals. If necessary, do a load test. If low voltage kicks out the DPS, the wide tires will seem to try to pull the bars straight.

 

[Firefly]

Took my bike in for the "trying to pull the handlebar straight" issue and dealer received the recall that night. He had to wait on parts because recall was so new, but he told me mine was first in line. He knows that it is my main mode of transportation. (I can't give enough props to my dealer here in Amarillo, has been great)

Anyway, the part arrived two days later and it only took him half a day or less to replace the unit once it came in. When I picked my bike up, I noticed the same thing the rest of you are commenting on, it was much more responsive and stable. I also realized I was going to have to "relearn" how to ride it.

Unfortunately, that only lasted about a day and a half and it went back to intermittently trying to yank the handlebars straight when I was leaving parking lots/turning from a stop sign and high steering effort when cornering (even gentle sweepers) on the open road, again intermittently. I never know how much boost is going to be there at any one time. I rode it for a week or so trying to make sure it wasn't me or the bike setup.

Called dealer finally and he told me that others have had to reset the sensors more than once, so I took it back to him once I had a chance, which was last Monday. Again, got about a day and a half of great handling and steering response and now the old issue is back. Haven't had a chance to call the dealer again yet.

I have General AltimaxHP (185/60R14) on the front. I was running at about 16psi before the change out, but bumped it up to 19psi the same day I got it back because of ride/cornering characteristics that became noticeable once I wasn't having to fight the steering any longer. Still have completely stock front end (shocks, bearings, sway bar) but no looseness noted. Anyone else with automotive, slightly oversize tires on the front had the replacement done and the issue show back up? Just a nagging thought I have that maybe that extra contact patch is somehow causing the DPS to prematurely fail.

May be relevant, may not be, I also lock the handlebars every time I park the bike. I only pull it to the stop and back to center with power on though.:dontknow: Just slightly stumped now, am I simply out riding the design limits of the bike (doesn't sound like it, sounds like Raptor rides the same way I do) or is something else going on?

You for sure have something wrong going on. I can't comment on what PSI you should be running since you're not running OEM tires... and while tire pressure can affect your ride-- I don't think it's gonna cause the issue you are describing.

You could have a bad sensor, misaligned sensor(not zeroed properly), or perhaps a bad DPS altogether. The old version had failures 'out of the box', wouldn't be too shocked if we run across some lemons with the new batch.

I also wouldn't discount an electrical problem. How often do you use a battery tender? Low voltage, short, bad fuse/relay, etc. could also cause some problems.

Since this was your dealers first upgrade to the new dps--- it could also have been done incorrectly and/or damaged.

You're not riding it too hard or reaching the limits of performance-- plenty of us out here that ride the crap outta these things!

 

[Eagle Eye]

Made a world a difference on our RTS

When they replaced parts on the DPS it made a world of difference when we got it back. Smooth turning on curves etc. Just so much better.

:2thumbs:

 

[txknight67]

I suppose the larger tires could be causing you problems, but the problems would always be there, not come and go .

I keep telling myself that, but the question keeps nagging at me. Thanks for reinforcing my thought process.

Reset after reset will not be a cure, IMO.

Yeah, I wasn't planning on just accepting a reset this time.

Also, check your battery for tight connections and clean terminals. If necessary, do a load test. If low voltage kicks out the DPS, the wide tires will seem to try to pull the bars straight

I had been wondering about that, but I have since had a few instances where I could tell I was just "fighting" against the tires. I've driven the old non power steering vehicles and recognized that feeling. Which just strengthened my impression that something is actively "pulling" against me. The no power steering is a direct connection to the tires, I can feel the "mush" of the tires pulling. The other is like I am twisting a solid steel bar to try and get movement or maintain the steering input to the front tires.

Edited to add: I have also experimented some with turning the bars at a rest while revving the engine. This after straightening the bars and being able to tell the DPS is taking a vacation. Nine times out of ten no help. Holds with the loose connection theory.

 

[txknight67]

You could have a bad sensor, misaligned sensor(not zeroed properly), or perhaps a bad DPS altogether. The old version had failures 'out of the box', wouldn't be too shocked if we run across some lemons with the new batch.

That is definitely a thought. I hope not, but it is entirely possible. If that is the case, figures it would happen to me.

I also wouldn't discount an electrical problem. How often do you use a battery tender? Low voltage, short, bad fuse/relay, etc. could also cause some problems.

I never use a battery tender. Ride it every day too and from work, 40 miles one way, so didn't figure I needed to. And this was happening before I started using my Gerbing this fall. However, loose connection is a definite possibility.

Since this was your dealers first upgrade to the new dps--- it could also have been done incorrectly and/or damaged.

He had already changed mine once before and I had gotten 8 trouble free months out of it, then this started showing up a month or so ago. I wouldn't expect the G2 DPS to be that much different.

You're not riding it too hard or reaching the limits of performance-- plenty of us out here that ride the crap outta these things!

I am starting to realize that. That was just a thought because I know I drive my cages harder than 95% of the driving population. If there is a performance related issue to be found on a cage I will be the one to find it more often than not. Looks like I am just part of the crowd here though.:2thumbs:

 

[Firefly]

"I never use a battery tender. Ride it every day too and from work, 40 miles one way, so didn't figure I needed to. And this was happening before I started using my Gerbing this fall. However, loose connection is a definite possibility."

I don't trust the Spyder Magneto setup to do a good job of charging---- I plug mine in basically every night.

 

[NancysToy]

]"I never use a battery tender. Ride it every day too and from work, 40 miles one way, so didn't figure I needed to. And this was happening before I started using my Gerbing this fall. However, loose connection is a definite possibility."[/I]

I don't trust the Spyder Magneto setup to do a good job of charging---- I plug mine in basically every night.

Good point. Keep in mind that the Spyder only puts out half the rated charging capacity at 4,000 rpm. Keep the rpm up!

Also keep in mind that your battery may be reaching the end of its life, failing to take and hold a charge well. If the connections at the battery are good, and the ground connection to the frame, under the front console, is tight and clean, check the battery condition. You can also rig up a voltmeter to the battery then ride, and see how the voltmeter reacts when steering. The Spyder must be moving to make sure the DPS is fully engaged during this test.

 

[txknight67]

Good point. Keep in mind that the Spyder only puts out half the rated charging capacity at 4,000 rpm. Keep the rpm up!

The vast majority of my trip is highway so I am running 77mph which equates to approximately 5600rpm, but something I'll keep in mind.

Also keep in mind that your battery may be reaching the end of its life, failing to take and hold a charge well. If the connections at the battery are good, and the ground connection to the frame, under the front console, is tight and clean, check the battery condition. You can also rig up a voltmeter to the battery then ride, and see how the voltmeter reacts when steering. The Spyder must be moving to make sure the DPS is fully engaged during this test.

I have already noticed the lights dim when I turn the handlebars at idle. Revving up the engine cures that, but the DPS still isn't there sometimes, regardless of rpm's and when it "cuts out/locks up" coming out of a parking lot I would say I am somewhere between 4000 - 5000rpm....just a rough guess going by sound of the engine as I am never looking at the dash making a maneuver like that.

Like you said though, if the connections aren't loose, I'll head down the power supply lines. Like spark chasers everywhere say when troubleshooting, "Power, ground, and the last place someone worked."

You bring up a good point though, no voltmeter or ammeter. Someone had a good set up on here for a digital voltmeter, but just haven't done it yet.

 

[NancysToy]

The vast majority of my trip is highway so I am running 77mph which equates to approximately 5600rpm, but something I'll keep in mind.

I have already noticed the lights dim when I turn the handlebars at idle. Revving up the engine cures that, but the DPS still isn't there sometimes, regardless of rpm's and when it "cuts out/locks up" coming out of a parking lot I would say I am somewhere between 4000 - 5000rpm....just a rough guess going by sound of the engine as I am never looking at the dash making a maneuver like that.

Like you said though, if the connections aren't loose, I'll head down the power supply lines. Like spark chasers everywhere say when troubleshooting, "Power, ground, and the last place someone worked."

You bring up a good point though, no voltmeter or ammeter. Someone had a good set up on here for a digital voltmeter, but just haven't done it yet.

The dimming lights are a good indication that the problem has an electrical origin. The DPS is the largest single draw on the Spyder system, short of the starter. Your problem could be a bad DPS, that draws too much amperage, but you said you also had the problem with the old DPS. Could be bad connections, which you are going to check. Don't forget the main machine ground to the frame at the front of the Spyder, as well as the battery connections. The problem could also be a tired battery.

To check the battery yourself, you will need a volt-ohmmeter. You can get a decent one quite inexpensively at Sears, home improvement stores, Radio Shack, or auto parts stores, among others. Immediately after charging the battery fully (or a good long ride), the battery voltage will probably be over 13.0-13.5 volts, for a good battery and a full charge. After sitting overnight, a good battery should retain about 12.7 volts. The minimum charge retained after sitting overnight should be at least 12.4-12.5 volts. Any less and the battery won't hold a charge and should be replaced. The final test is a load test. While cranking the starter, the voltage should not drop below 10.0 volts. If it does, the battery is shot. Your dealer can do a more sophisticated load test. A battery that cannot pass a load test can also cause DPS problems, due to low voltage while turning.

 

[jsteffey]

waitng for replacement

My dealer has not received repalcement units. I need to leave for FL soon for the winter. Anyone in FL have a dealer to recommend; preferably one with dps replacements in stock?

 

[SpyderWolf]

My dealer has not received repalcement units. I need to leave for FL soon for the winter. Anyone in FL have a dealer to recommend; preferably one with dps replacements in stock?

Send Docdoru, or Dave01, a PM and ask them about the dealer they use. I think they may be located in Clearwater, but I know they are very happy with the service they get.

 

[SethO]

My dealer has not received repalcement units. I need to leave for FL soon for the winter. Anyone in FL have a dealer to recommend; preferably one with dps replacements in stock?

westcoast motorsports and speak with ben and joe, some of the best in teh business.

 

[SC_DOC]

I just called my dealer (Powersports of Greenville) to see if the DPS recall kits for the RT had come in yet. I was told that they spoke to Bombardier yesterday and were told that due to quality control issues with the initial kits that were installed, they had a moratorium on shipping any further kits out until the issues were resolved. Has anyone else heard about this?

 

[PCBeachBum]

I just called my dealer (Powersports of Greenville) to see if the DPS recall kits for the RT had come in yet. I was told that they spoke to Bombardier yesterday and were told that due to quality control issues with the initial kits that were installed, they had a moratorium on shipping any further kits out until the issues were resolved. Has anyone else heard about this?

I was supposed to have my DPS replaced with the next one that came in. This was back in the 3rd week of Sept. Talked to my dealer several times including Yesterday and they have yet to receive another new DPS. They've sent 5 back and are still waiting.

If its a quality control issue? Fine, I'll wait til they get it sorted out. I've had two replaced on my 2008 GS, with last replacement in July. I don't want to have to go through this again and hope they get this issue corrected.

 

[Bob Denman]

I got mine back Saturday morning... Temp in the mid-forties and raining too! I was just a bit too much in survival mode to notice much, but the 55 mile ride home DID indicate that the :spyder:'s steering was a bit lighter and smoother... This week I'll wring it out some as the weather has to improve!

 

[3wheeler]

warranty void

does anyone know if installing 18 in wheels and evo sway bar void factory warranty on can am spyder

 

[PCBeachBum]

I just called my dealer (Powersports of Greenville) to see if the DPS recall kits for the RT had come in yet. I was told that they spoke to Bombardier yesterday and were told that due to quality control issues with the initial kits that were installed, they had a moratorium on shipping any further kits out until the issues were resolved. Has anyone else heard about this?

Talked to my service manager Tuesday and he said he can't get a new DPS kit for and RT on the floor. He said the RS DPS kit, he doesn't have a problem with and has one with my name on it for Friday morning.

I also told him about the 2nd update not being completed with the evap cannistor breather hose not extended and coming out the bottom, along with the new belt tension and front sprocket bolt to the new specs. He said that will all be taken care of on Friday.

 

[SpyderAnn01]

I picked up my RT yesterday after having the DPS and rear shock recalls done I also had new locks put on - ignition, rear trunk and trailer. On my way home I realized that the turn signals wouldn't cancel after a turn so I called my dealer and set it up to bring it back on Thursday. Today I went for a ride and got about 5 miles from home when the engine light came on along with a picture of the handlebars. I stopped and shut it off and turned it back on and the lights went away. I couldn't find the handlebar icon in the manual but I'm assuming that it is the DPS. We kept riding and it came back on each leg of the trip so I'll have it checked out tomorrow.

 

[Dudley]

I just called my dealer (Powersports of Greenville) to see if the DPS recall kits for the RT had come in yet. I was told that they spoke to Bombardier yesterday and were told that due to quality control issues with the initial kits that were installed, they had a moratorium on shipping any further kits out until the issues were resolved. Has anyone else heard about this?

What issues?

 

[SpyderWolf]

does anyone know if installing 18 in wheels and evo sway bar void factory warranty on can am spyder

The Evo Sway Bar will not void the warranty. You might have some serious issues with the 18 inch tires, and I highly doubt they will cover any problems caused by that tire choice.