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downshifting F3

hsteil

New member
Hi all, took delivery of my new F3, awesome machine. But, just as Gilda Radner said in SNL, there is always something. When I downshift (paddleshifter) there is a small time delay, plus the RPM actually increase and the vehicule makes a slight lurch forward, accelerating briefly. Dealer says it happens because I 'downshift to early'. hah? I should 'let the engine do the downshifting'. OK, off I go but the same thing happens if I let the engine do the downshifting. Any comments anybody?
WIPPI, does yours do that too?

Regards from 95 degrees Germany,
Peter
 
Lurch in speed

I can't say much about the delay, but I initially had the problem of the increase of speed and rpm, until I realized I was downshifting at too high an rpm. I now don't downshift until it's at 2500 rpm or LESS. Anymore than that and you will get the 'jerky' motion.
 
If/when I do downshift it is at the <3000rpm level if not lower. The Spyder does not have any form
of "auto blip" that you might see in cars and such. (Although probably would not be hard to
accomplish with an add-on unit). The only times I let the machine auto-downshift is when I
am coming to a complete stop, or possibly making a L/R turn when speeds will be extremely
low.
 
MAYBE

The transmission is smarter !!!.......IMHO if the RPM's of the manual shifting weren't controlled and you were using the trans to assist in slowing down on a regular basis, I think it would break down EARLY in it's life.......Be happy with the way it works or get the Manual......But I learned a long time ago BRAKE PADS cost much less than TRANSMISSIONS and / or CLUTCHES............................Mike :thumbup:
 
Hi all, took delivery of my new F3, awesome machine. But, just as Gilda Radner said in SNL, there is always something. When I downshift (paddleshifter) there is a small time delay, plus the RPM actually increase and the vehicule makes a slight lurch forward, accelerating briefly. Dealer says it happens because I 'downshift to early'. hah? I should 'let the engine do the downshifting'. OK, off I go but the same thing happens if I let the engine do the downshifting. Any comments anybody?
WIPPI, does yours do that too?

Regards from 95 degrees Germany,
Peter
Yep, kinda the same with mine, but not always and I'm not really bothered by it... I might have to pay close attention as to when it happens. I guess I'm too busy smiling and looking way too cool 😎
 
Normally I will grab a lower gear before heading into a turn, moreso downhill so I am never
coasting and am into the throttle always. No throttle will get you into understeer and plow
the Spyder (bad)... On normal straight road, I like to keep the RPMS 2500-3000 (closer to
3K normally) and may downshift to accomplish that.
 
Unless you're downshifting for a Blitz around slow traffic or there's a REAL sharp turn staring at you... :shocked:

...Let the transmission handle this chore; it'll pick the right rpm levels for you, and all will be fine. :thumbup:
 
On the 998, I like to downshift manually at about 3,000 - 3,500 rpm for all except first gear. There, I do it at about 2,500. For me, this avoids the "klunk" sound when downshifting and seems more smooth and less "jerky."

I find the 1330 does the job exceptionally well. No clunk whatsoever as the transmission does its thing. For my style of riding, I have yet to feel like I needed to shift down to get extra "oomph" to pass someone, or put on a surge of speed. There is enough low end to just crank and go--for me--IMO. :yes:
 
Normally I will grab a lower gear before heading into a turn, moreso downhill so I am never
coasting and am into the throttle always. No throttle will get you into understeer and plow
the Spyder (bad)... On normal straight road, I like to keep the RPMS 2500-3000 (closer to
3K normally) and may downshift to accomplish that.

I downshift all the time since my driving is in the mountains. Tired of smelling brakes because none of the car drivers seem to realize that even their automatics have gears and can be downshifted.... sorry, the soapbox just appeared out of left field.

Anyway, as long as you're not in 6th, the engine compression will usually slow you down enough that you can downshift around 3000 RPMs without the clunk. I also tend to downshift through the tight curves even if it does cause the RPMs to go up.
 
Hi all, took delivery of my new F3, awesome machine. But, just as Gilda Radner said in SNL, there is always something. When I downshift (paddleshifter) there is a small time delay, plus the RPM actually increase and the vehicule makes a slight lurch forward, accelerating briefly. Dealer says it happens because I 'downshift to early'. hah? I should 'let the engine do the downshifting'. OK, off I go but the same thing happens if I let the engine do the downshifting. Any comments anybody?
WIPPI, does yours do that too?

Regards from 95 degrees Germany,
Peter


yeah, kind of cool, its exactly what a race car does!!
 
Unless you're downshifting for a Blitz around slow traffic or there's a REAL sharp turn staring at you... :shocked:

...Let the transmission handle this chore; it'll pick the right rpm levels for you, and all will be fine. :thumbup:

I agree with Mr. Denman 100%. Let the machine do the work - it was made for that???????
BIG F
 
yeah, kind of cool, its exactly what a race car does!!

True on the race car side where they perform a rev-match, similar to what you would manually do
with a heel-toe shift. Ferrari has had it in their street cars since the 360... where a downshift from
the paddle will blip the throttle so you are matching engine speed to proper land speed... ultimately
the tail does not fly out AND speed is not abruptly taken away. Brakes are for that. Porsche new 991's,
Boxster, Caymans, the new Gen7 Corvettes do it in sport mode with the normal shifter (no paddles)
and is so immediate it is seamless. But a majority today with "paddles" in cars, you pull the paddle and
it will downshift (w/no rev matching.... which could lead to an over-rev or hit the limiter plus the added
bonus of extreme oversteer unless your cars stability system is really-really good)

These Spyders have limiters in the form of fuel shut-off but still you never want to attempt a "mechanical"
over-rev...Meaning if you are in 4th (lets say), 6500 rpms and pull a downshift, the results may not
be pleasant and at speed you will max out the rpms. These machines are manual whether SE5/6 or not.
The fuel system will work as designed (rev limiter), but, that does not stop the mechanical motions that
are already in-play... Typically leading to upper valve train damage.

So sure I could run in 5th up a hill but, prefer lets say 4th and not to lug the engine or when in slower
curved mountain areas where I want to maintain 4000rpms and regulate in the turns. (Where you NEVER
want to apply brakes, ever).... You brake IN a turn, then transfer weight forward, and understeer (plow)
and loose stability.
 
practice

repeated exercise in or performance of an activity or skill so as to acquire or maintain proficiency in it. good luck. :yikes: deerpracticeslayer milt
 
thanks wippi and all others for the post on downshifting!!

Yep, kinda the same with mine, but not always and I'm not really bothered by it... I might have to pay close attention as to when it happens. I guess I'm too busy smiling and looking way too cool 😎

neither my Norton commando, nor my Honda Clubman have ever heard of letting the computer do the downshifting. We, the bikes and I, had a talk this morning in the garage. They told me, as far as the F3 is concerned I should stick with F3 riders' opinion and come to the 21st century. Because they certainly would not change their ways. So I turned the lights off on them and went happily to ride my F3 for a while.With the small lurch forward while downshifting.
Regards, Peter
 
You have a Clubman? :D
What a fun bike! :thumbup:
attachment.php

I had one back in 1989, and then ended up on a TranAlp as my next ride; a true Paradigm shift! :D
 

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That's the way to go, Peter! Have fun riding. I hope you don't melt on your Spyder...I'll wait till tonight hoping it'll cool off a little... 95° is a bit too much for me. 😜
 
There should be a rev limiter on the Spyder so if it behaves like a sportbike, you'll feel it stutter. As far as never braking in a turn, that's not quite accurate because there should be some trail braking and static throttle into the turn then a gradual release and more throttle. Thats for 2 wheels. For the few hundred miles I've put on my F3S, I'm finding that the front handles better with a bit of throttle while negotiating turns.
 
Last edited:
Acceptance---never happen

Hi all, took delivery of my new F3, awesome machine. But, just as Gilda Radner said in SNL, there is always something. When I downshift (paddleshifter) there is a small time delay, plus the RPM actually increase and the vehicule makes a slight lurch forward, accelerating briefly. Dealer says it happens because I 'downshift to early'. hah? I should 'let the engine do the downshifting'. OK, off I go but the same thing happens if I let the engine do the downshifting. Any comments anybody?
WIPPI, does yours do that too?

Regards from 95 degrees Germany,
Peter

Yes my 2015 F3 SE6 does a surge forward when coming to a stop as the rpm drops to 1800 in the current gears as it downshifts & attemps to temporarily surge speed in upward direction. Not a big problem but can get ones attention if forced to brake for freeway jams. some people use the F3 as supplied & some tweak for better performance. The "acceptance profile" people will never understand.... It's OK--I don't understand them either :-)
 
clubbie

You have a Clubman?







:Dshe sure is!
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What a fun bike! :thumbup:
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I had one back in 1989, and then ended up on a TranAlp as my next ride; a true Paradigm shift! :D
well, I probably have yours, since mine is a 88 USA version, 6k miles, showroom condition.
Here in Germany, a good one goes for around 4500 euros minimum. also attached a picture of my Deauville, sister of the transalp.
 

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nah, with a good Warsteiner I survive anything...

That's the way to go, Peter! Have fun riding. I hope you don't melt on your Spyder...I'll wait till tonight hoping it'll cool off a little... 95° is a bit too much for me. 😜

so the first few F3 days are over. First mods: went to department store and bought little cutting bords, likely
Delrin, 'bout 12x5, drilled 2 holes in'em , exactly the distance of the M8 which hold the passenger rail, then with a router, cut out all the inside so only a frame of 1 inch width remained. 2 more holes for straps, spraypaint ( which does not hold long on Delrin, I know) , 4 M8 , 1/2 inch longer than the originals, mount over pass-rails, and, voila, you have a backplate for the HELD,-over-the -passengerseat, luggage bags. only 17 liters volume each x 2, but for a total cost of 150 bucks and will not wait for December delivery of the Givi/Can-Am 1650 euros and hjope they wont leak cases.
Auxillary plug has also been installed for the gps.
Also various straps were sewn to hold the Tank bag from my Deauville. One fixed attached under the seat and around the rear shock, exiting at the forward end of the seat. the others just loops to hold the bag around the handlebar. What else... ah yeah, glued 4 straps, 2 inches long each over the corners of the trunk lid, inside the weatherstrip. attached a netting ,and, voila, space otherwise waisted , now holds maps, glasses, wallet, etc. see what you can do during a heatwave? regards from today 42 celsius Heidelberg...Peter
 
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