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**** "DO'S & DO NOTS" for NEW SPYDER OWNERS... ****

Is it ok to drive below 4300 rpm in 1st gear up hill with two people on board? (gravel road)....Thanks
The SE clutch locks up at 3200 rpm +/- 200. That means above 3500 you should be good to go. I wouldn't cut it any closer than I had to, but anything above four grand should be perfectly safe.
 
Not only is it OK......it's smart. :thumbup:



Alright then...WE have a steep gravel hill from our house to the main road...Was afraid of slipping the clutch (SE-5) at low rpm, 8mph...Any slower, I get tire spin. Also, does 1st gear lock-up at low rpm, more so then the higher gears? Two of us went for a ride this morning, but to be on the safe side I walked up the hill and met my wife on top.
 
Alright then...WE have a steep gravel hill from our house to the main road...Was afraid of slipping the clutch (SE-5) at low rpm, 8mph...Any slower, I get tire spin. Also, does 1st gear lock-up at low rpm, more so then the higher gears? Two of us went for a ride this morning, but to be on the safe side I walked up the hill and met my wife on top.

The SE clutch locks up at 3200 rpm +/- 200. That means above 3500 you should be good to go. I wouldn't cut it any closer than I had to, but anything above four grand should be perfectly safe.

:agree:
 
The SE clutch locks up at 3200 rpm +/- 200. That means above 3500 you should be good to go. I wouldn't cut it any closer than I had to, but anything above four grand should be perfectly safe.

Looks like I need to go faster than I wanted to then, but I have to take my time getting started to keep from spinning the tire. I'll figure something out.
 
Looks like I need to go faster than I wanted to then, but I have to take my time getting started to keep from spinning the tire. I'll figure something out.

You were given correct information, however sometimes you have to do what you have to. Just as long as you keep it to a minimum and pay attention to your clutch wear.

However... A real Spyder enthusiast would either have the hill taken out or move! :roflblack:

Just joking of course...
 
I would not worry about RPMs. Just focus on shift speeds, then RPMs will be handled properly. Shift to 2 @ 29, to 3rd @ 39, to 4th @ 49. those shift points will keep your rpms in proper perspective for all types of riding....flat roads, curves, or hills (up or down). Do downshifting t to 4th @ 64, to 3rd @ 49, to 2nd at 39, and to first @ 29.... just memorize it and it will make riding so much more enjoyable
 
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THANK YOU ALL

Thanks to all who replied to my "Newbie"/"First Ride" post.
I had a great but cold ride home--55F, thankful that it did not rain.
I had forgotten how much I love to ride:ohyea:
I had a blast and have been out every day since even though the temps are still hovering around 50.
 
Thanks to all who replied to my "Newbie"/"First Ride" post.
I had a great but cold ride home--55F, thankful that it did not rain.
I had forgotten how much I love to ride:ohyea:
I had a blast and have been out every day since even though the temps are still hovering around 50.

Ha! Riding kind of makes you tolerate some of the cold; but after a while... cold is COLD!

I'll be there was a few times you almost decided to forget the break-in advice and take the nearest interstate highway and just scoot on home faster! ;)

Glad you made it home safe and with a bit of a smile on your face...
 
Curves?

Dos? Don'ts? Picking up my Spyder ST Limited next week and spending 6 days riding around TX, OK and NM. Am experienced on 2 wheels and 4, Absolutely NO experience on 3. So - curves? I live in the Southern Mountains of NM and we have LOTS of curves - help? :dontknow:
 
Dos? Don'ts? Picking up my Spyder ST Limited next week and spending 6 days riding around TX, OK and NM. Am experienced on 2 wheels and 4, Absolutely NO experience on 3. So - curves? I live in the Southern Mountains of NM and we have LOTS of curves - help? :dontknow:

Congrats on the new ST, Good choice you will love it. On curves just lean over your mirrors if you want to take them fast. Right curve lean over right mirror. That may be a little exaggerated but it won't take you long. Good luck. Find you a big empty parking lot and run it thru the paces.
 
CURVES?

You said experience with 2 wheels and 4. Is that 4 wheels with a handlebar, instead of a steering wheel, as in ATV? If so you're almost home, because the Spyder handling is very similar to an ATV. As opposed to a trike, which must be more like the old original 3-wheel ATVs, which were ultimately discontinued as being too dangerous!
 
Re: "Do's and Do Nots" for new Spyder owners...

You said experience with 2 wheels and 4. Is that 4 wheels with a handlebar, instead of a steering wheel, as in ATV? If so you're almost home, because the Spyder handling is very similar to an ATV. As opposed to a trike, which must be more like the old original 3-wheel ATVs, which were ultimately discontinued as being too dangerous!

Trike is NOTHING like the old 3 wheelers. Spyder was nothing like my quad. My quad drifted, slid and tracked like it was on rails.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
 
Trike is NOTHING like the old 3 wheelers. Spyder was nothing like my quad. My quad drifted, slid and tracked like it was on rails.
My comments were limited to CURVES. I have ridden 3-wheel ATVs, but not a trike. I have only heard comments that it's quite easy to lift a rear trike wheel in a curve. If your experience belies that, then I'll have to defer to your experience. But on the Spyder, Nanny deals swiftly with any wheel-lift.

As to Spyders vs. ATVs in curves, I'm saying the driving techniques required are very similar; that is what I believe the original poster was asking. I have many years' experience on quads, and now 5,000 miles on my Spyder, and I tell people the steering characteristics are quite similar in curves.
 
Re: "Do's and Do Nots" for new Spyder owners...

My comments were limited to CURVES. I have ridden 3-wheel ATVs, but not a trike. I have only heard comments that it's quite easy to lift a rear trike wheel in a curve. If your experience belies that, then I'll have to defer to your experience. But on the Spyder, Nanny deals swiftly with any wheel-lift.

As to Spyders vs. ATVs in curves, I'm saying the driving techniques required are very similar; that is what I believe the original poster was asking. I have many years' experience on quads, and now 5,000 miles on my Spyder, and I tell people the steering characteristics are quite similar in curves.

Gotcha, I tell them its like a go cart or small sports car. The older trikes were terrible, but they have really made good changes in the newer models. To me, the nanny took away some of the fun. Tried drifting and she told me no and took away my fun. Mean Nanny.

Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk 2
 
BRP needs to add a chapter to their Manual and add this post. Thanks for taking the time to inform everyone on this important stuff that will save a lot of us some heart burn. Great Post!:thumbup:
 
regarding battery panels

I have a 2013 ST Limited and it's my first Spyder so I can only suggest an idea that may or may not work....My battery panel is in my Frunk. I changed my screws to thumb screws for easy on/off. For other Spyder models, maybe changing the battery body panel screws to thumb screws would ease the pain of keeping the battery charged using a tender?
 
ah...(we need a light bulb smiley)

The removal of the body panels surrounding the battery isn't really necessary to use a battery tender.

You can connect a fused pigtail to the battery.

:2thumbs:OH! I understand now. I thought using the tender meant removing the panels each time it was used. I see that the pigtails are a onetime install so you don't have to keep removing the panels.
 
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