• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

**** "DO'S & DO NOTS" for NEW SPYDER OWNERS... ****

Where did you buy yours ?

Illinois Boy, Where did you purchase yours and are you happy with them? :hun:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This is such good info and most of the time I carry my iPad around with me, I have decided to make this into a iBook for the iPad. Currently a work in progress.

IMG_2460.jpg
 
Where did you purchase yours and are you happy with them?:hun:

Sorry for the delay in answering your question.

I bought mine at Loves Park Powersports, in Loves Park , IL. I have had all my service done there. So far, I have not had any problems. I know of one person that says he didn't like the dealer, but I have had no problem. I have talked to the tech several times and he seems level headed and consistent.

Not sure this info is going to help you in LV though. :thumbup:
 
I wish I had read this about a week ago! I am surprised this isn't stickied. Great tips -- I sat in the highway for 20 minutes with a dead engine in 1st gear and apparently didn't step on the brake! Finally figured it out, but man was that tense.

Thanks for this list.
 
When I first started ryding mine, I had a tendency to jerk sharply from side to side in hard curves. I started concentrating on making myself look farther down the road, since I had been riding atv's for a long time and was still used to scanning directly in front of me for obstacles and trail hazards. Once I started looking farther ahead. I started getting smoother through curvy roads.
 
Yeah, this needs to be a "sticky"! I just now found it because of a comment in a recent thread.

Sorry if this has already been mentioned. I didn't read all the posts. As for the negative battery terminal. It looks like that has been corrected on the 2013's with the battery up front. I removed the negative nut several times on my 2013 RT adding some connections to it with no problem of it coming loose.
 
Shifting on the 2014 RT

BRP and the dealer both have told me the shifting on the (more highly powered) 2014's should be in the same RPMs as the previous models (4000-6000 ideal cruising RPMs, shifting not before 5000).

Still, the Eco mode seems to prefer that my RPMs are lower, and those numbers also "feel" right when I'm riding (for what little that's worth).

I can see that the power of the engine is more or less where it has always been, but am wondering if my shifting sensibility has reason or room to change.

Thoughts?
 
When I first started ryding mine, I had a tendency to jerk sharply from side to side in hard curves. I started concentrating on making myself look farther down the road, since I had been riding atv's for a long time and was still used to scanning directly in front of me for obstacles and trail hazards. Once I started looking farther ahead. I started getting smoother through curvy roads.
A motorcycle safety foundation basic rider course would help with this a lot.
 
If you have someone close by to do it. The nearest one to me is 400 to 500 miles away! :(

Plan you a vacation or "two day ride" that would include a visit to a local (if that can be said) Rolo/Outlaw laser alignment distributor and have it done. Only takes about an hour of your time as far as the procedure itself.

​Chris
 
Yeah, this needs to be a "sticky"! I just now found it because of a comment in a recent thread.

Sorry if this has already been mentioned. I didn't read all the posts. As for the negative battery terminal. It looks like that has been corrected on the 2013's with the battery up front. I removed the negative nut several times on my 2013 RT adding some connections to it with no problem of it coming loose.


I inserted a note about this point, based on your suggestion. It slipped past me... sorry.

BRP and the dealer both have told me the shifting on the (more highly powered) 2014's should be in the same RPMs as the previous models (4000-6000 ideal cruising RPMs, shifting not before 5000).

Still, the Eco mode seems to prefer that my RPMs are lower, and those numbers also "feel" right when I'm riding (for what little that's worth).

I can see that the power of the engine is more or less where it has always been, but am wondering if my shifting sensibility has reason or room to change.

Thoughts?

This is something I would defer to those experienced riders owning the 1330's and what their final thoughts are. I found most dealers have no clue as to how to operate the previous models within their peak-performance band. JMHO...

It is early in the riding season this year, and many 1300 riders have only had their Spyders for a few weeks; while others have not ridden their 1330's at all.

I am waiting for the experienced riders' opinions once they have the opportunity to put miles on their 1330 to gain enough information for suggestions on best-practices for handling them to achieve peak performance. I suspect the information will begin to roll-in sooner than later.

From initial comments from those I listen to, the new 1330's definitely have its peak power band beginning at lower rpm's than the 990 series engine -- which to the average rider is going to feel more comfortable, in that most vehicles driven/ridden by the average person has more lower-end torque provided either by the engine or gearing (or combination of both).

So far there is no indications the actual handling best-practices (steering and such) has changed any. So it is looking as if the only big change in operation will be the shift-points and finding the optimal rpm shift-points for the 1330's.

Has anyone mentioned getting a Rolo/Outlaw laser alignment?? If not, this is a must.

Chris

Information such as this is not what this thread is intended for. This thread was intended for basic operational tips/hints for stock Spyders -- not any customization or other such services. Other threads handle those subjects quite well on Spyderlovers.com. No offense, but if we start adding all of these additional suggestions the post will become a 300-page post; and it is getting long as it it...:thumbup:
 
I inserted a note about this point, based on your suggestion. It slipped past me... sorry.



This is something I would defer to those experienced riders owning the 1330's and what their final thoughts are. I found most dealers have no clue as to how to operate the previous models within their peak-performance band. JMHO...

It is early in the riding season this year, and many 1300 riders have only had their Spyders for a few weeks; while others have not ridden their 1330's at all.

I am waiting for the experienced riders' opinions once they have the opportunity to put miles on their 1330 to gain enough information for suggestions on best-practices for handling them to achieve peak performance. I suspect the information will begin to roll-in sooner than later.

From initial comments from those I listen to, the new 1330's definitely have its peak power band beginning at lower rpm's than the 990 series engine -- which to the average rider is going to feel more comfortable, in that most vehicles driven/ridden by the average person has more lower-end torque provided either by the engine or gearing (or combination of both).

So far there is no indications the actual handling best-practices (steering and such) has changed any. So it is looking as if the only big change in operation will be the shift-points and finding the optimal rpm shift-points for the 1330's.



Information such as this is not what this thread is intended for. This thread was intended for basic operational tips/hints for stock Spyders -- not any customization or other such services. Other threads handle those subjects quite well on Spyderlovers.com. No offense, but if we start adding all of these additional suggestions the post will become a 300-page post; and it is getting long as it it...:thumbup:

SORRY I GAVE MEANING FOR WHICH THE OP DID NOT INTEND. I'LL TRY TO DO BETTER NEXT TIME.
NO OFFENSE TAKEN. I WON'T GIVE YOU THAT POWER.
 
Last edited:
Ok, so I took my bike in for service and was told that I am riding the brake and need to stop. Well I knew better, I wasn't riding the brake. I knew better because I rode with my right foot hooked under the brake pedal. What I found myself doing was pulling up on the brake A LOT!. Well you would think that would be OK but IT IS NOT!!! ANY TOUCHING OF THE BRAKE is engaging the brake. I went through a new pair of pads in a very short time before I figured out I was the problem. Now I just use the foot pegs like I should and only touch the brake to use it. Everything is great now.
NBV Highway peg brackets could help.
 
SORRY I GAVE MEANING FOR WHICH THE OP DID NOT INTEND. I'LL TRY TO DO BETTER NEXT TIME.
NO OFFENSE TAKEN. I WON'T GIVE YOU THAT POWER.

I thought you were intending for me to include the alignment suggestion to the OP; which is why I said what I did. I was not intending to offend you if I did.

Personally, it appears the alignment IS a must-do for Spyders though, given all the good responses from those getting it done. I know I am getting mine done as soon as the weather breaks around here.

Again, I hope I didn't offend you. That was not my intention. Sometimes I just type fast and don't think first.:opps:
 
Back
Top