• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

**** "DO'S & DO NOTS" for NEW SPYDER OWNERS... ****

I don't mean to be difficult and I'm not trying to be a smart A:cus:s but on the RSS and STS The tool kit is in the Frunk mounted on the right side.
Thanks Kubie:doorag:

The list was referencing the RT... sorry Kubie. I'll add that to the list though. Thanks!
 
Best Read

:bowdown:
This is the best read we have had since joining SpyderLovers.Wow did we learn.(we are better SpyderRyders for it) Please add more. Thanks​
[/QUOTE]
 
New but lots of miles for Newbie

I just returned from 9 days in the Phoenix AZ area. I went there for the specific and singular purpose of renting and riding a Spyder for a week to see if I really want to buy one. Rydeaspyder.com was my source of an RT that I rode for 8 days - in lots of differing circumstances. I read lots of Spyderweb before taking the trip but failed to see this thread. Newcomers heed well - the information herein will save you lots of grief. I put on over 1,200 miles in 6 actual days of riding. It was great and my rental was a great tool. Even though the RT had over 30k miles on it, it treated me well. I highly recommend this approach to a decision of this $$ magnitude. I come with many years of riding experience, my present bikes are: 2011 Superlow 883, 04 Low Rider, 07 Buell Blast, and a 1981 Yamaha 250 Exciter. My "road" bikes are the Superlow (which fits me best) and the Low Rider. At 76 years of age the road trips are getting more difficult with the Harleys. Add a very short inseam of 28" to the equasion and it is easy to see why a bagger (regardless of nameplate) is not high on my wish list. Enter the Spyder - - it proved to be a great tool, a blast to ride and appears to be what I need if I want to continue putting making a couple of longer runs each year. Hope to pick up a yellow RTS the last weekend of Spyderfest 2013. The Major sends
 
Just as a note, I have to drive about 1/2 mile on a gravel road to get to the main road. I did order the belt guard, and in the past year of driving on the gravel, I have had no problems. I would recommend you keep it slow though.


Thanks, I feel a bit better now. Just ordered the "missing belt guard". Really can't wait to get back on a bike.
 
Do's & Do Not's for New Spyder Owners: Updated April 24th, 2013

Great Info.

Thank you so much.

Dom
 
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:bowdown:Great information and thank you for posting it. I live near 2 school zones so frequently have to go 20 mph; should I leave it in 1st gear all the way thru the school zones?:bowdown:
 
Re: "Do's and Do Nots" for new Spyder owners...

I do. Keeps clutch fully engaged, no lugging. Your machine will thank you for it.:)

Sent from Galaxy S3 via Tapatalk
 
:bowdown:Great information and thank you for posting it. I live near 2 school zones so frequently have to go 20 mph; should I leave it in 1st gear all the way thru the school zones?:bowdown:

Yes you should. If you are riding in a 20 mph zone all day, then you should never see 2nd gear.

Keep in mind, the clutch is not fully stalled (locked) until it is in the 3200 (+/- 200) rpm range. Round that up to 3500 and you'll always be assured the clutch if fully engaged. However, also keep in mind that keeping the rpm's above 4300+ rpm when riding is favored for performance reasons.

Anything lower than that begins to put more stress on the entire drive-train to perform as it should -- especially if you are pulling a trailer or are loaded to near capacity of the Spyder.

Also to consider; the Rotax engine for the Spyder power-band is at higher rpm's (closer to 5500 rpm's and up). Most experienced riders/drivers of any vehicle will always tell you to maintain optimum power at the throttle at all times for peak performance and for safety reasons (so power, if needed, is readily available to avoid a situation without having to shift -- don't catch yourself getting lazy and let your Spyder slop-around in the wrong gear/rpm configurations. It is a bad habit and not necessarily a safe practice).

Running a Spyder at a higher rpm may be hard to get used to. Initially it may sound and feel like you should shift. I assume it is because most all other vehicles people drive/ride run at much lower rpm's -- thus most are not used to how it sounds or feels.

In addition, some seem to believe running at higher rpm's means always having to be "screaming" around on their Spyder. It does not mean that at all. It simply means not shifting too soon and staying in the proper gear configuration for as long as you are riding it that gear's range (all day if that it the case).

Do yourself a favor and shift at the higher rpm ranges suggested until you get used to it. When you do, it will eventually feel more natural, and you will appreciate what is being stated here.

As a footnote for proof: The RTS SE5 in "trailer-mode" pushes-up the shift points fairly close to these ranges. And the down-shift points are at much higher rpm's also. (In trailer-mode, the system down-shifts to 1st gear at the 3200 rpm range of 2nd gear -- which then raises the rpm's back-up to a much higher range when engaged in 1st.)

Lastly as mentioned, most people feel they have to use all the gears all the time. That is just simply wrong -- period. Get used to STAYING in a particular gear for as long as you are within its speed and rpm range -- even if that means all-day.

I just took a long ride a week ago pulling my trailer (hundreds of miles) on mostly all interstate highway and rarely used 5th gear, unless I was above 70 MPH. With the drag of the trailer, 5th gear just didn't have the torque needed to pull the slight inclines and fight the wind without stressing some. in 4th... it was a breeze and my Spyder hummed along as smooth as can be -- with power still at the throttle.

Having said all of this... be sure to keep your Spyder maintained to high standards. Do not slack on giving it what it needs.

Good luck -- ride safe, often and alert! :thumbup:
 
first ride

First of all thank you for all the great information.
I unfortunately have to make my first ride on my Spyder RRS SE5 from the dealer which is a 2.5 hour ride
Do you have any suggestions for the ride. I have ridden a Spyder before but for a very limited ride. I also used to ride a sport bike, not that they are the same.
Any insites would be appreciated
 
I've been there! I'd look for surface streets, or slower highways, if you can, to get used to the ride (and, in my case, the very different sense of speed vs. being in a cage). If you are used to bikes (I'd only ridden an ATV in past), this will be far easier for you than it was for me. My wife followed me home in her car (it took all day to do what would normally be a much faster trip, which was about 25% of what it would take me to do the same ride now). I'd certainly get the Spyder in the morning, and take breaks. I very much wish that I'd had the benefit of this thread; it would have prevented me from having to unlearn some bad habits.

Congrats on the new purchase!
 
first ride

spyder-mumba


Also, if your Spyder is new, don't forget to avoid ryding at constant speeds for the first 200 miles. Vary your speeds thru all the gears to facilitate the break-in of the engine. Avoid cruise-control until after break-in.
 
First of all thank you for all the great information.
I unfortunately have to make my first ride on my Spyder RRS SE5 from the dealer which is a 2.5 hour ride
Do you have any suggestions for the ride. I have ridden a Spyder before but for a very limited ride. I also used to ride a sport bike, not that they are the same.
Any insites would be appreciated

You'll know soon enough just how comfortable/apprehensive you are, or are not. That alone should be your guide as to how you approach your ride home. We're all different. My first ride was around 1700 miles home. Enjoyed every moment of it.

Take it easy and have fun. :thumbup:
 
Newbie long first ride home

Newbie here...I have read all the wonderful information you have posted and will endevour to keep up the revs and foot off the brake.
Is there anything I should be aware of with a "break-in" period. I have a 2.5 hour ride home from the dealer...is it ok to my RSS-SE5 as you have outlined even though it is right out of the crate? Any information for the ride home would be very much appreciated
 
Newbie here...I have read all the wonderful information you have posted and will endevour to keep up the revs and foot off the brake.
Is there anything I should be aware of with a "break-in" period. I have a 2.5 hour ride home from the dealer...is it ok to my RSS-SE5 as you have outlined even though it is right out of the crate? Any information for the ride home would be very much appreciated

You will find varying opinions about properly breaking-in your Spyder.

A couple posts just mentioned most of what I would tell you...

For me it would include using varying speeds (to include highway speeds).

Back roads are good. Do not use the interstate (requires too constant of speed for too long).

Shift at the higher recommended rpm's stated at the top of this thread. (Plenty of reasons to support that. Shifting at too low of rpm's could actually be harmful -- especially during break-in.)

Take your time going home and enjoy the 2.5 hour ride!!! You should do fine.

Just stay alert to road hazards (your Spyder has a low-clearance), and don't trust any other vehicles -- as they are ALL out to run into you (at least that is the mentality you need to have).
 
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