**** "DO'S & DO NOTS" for NEW SPYDER OWNERS... ****

[chewy52]

MUST READ FOR NEWBIES

THIS IS A GREAT THREAD, I AM A NEWBIE AND WISH I CAME ACROSS THIS SOONER, I HAVE A '13 RT AND WAS RUNNING IT ACCORDING TO WHAT THE DEALER HAD TOLD ME. AFTER READING THIS I LEARNED THAT HIGHER RPMS IS THE ANSWER TO WHAT I THOUGHT WHERE MECHANICAL PROBLEMS. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THAT ANY ONE NEW TO SPYDER OWNER READ THIS POST. THANKS. :bowdown:

 

[ARtraveler]

MUST READ FOR NEWBIES

THIS IS A GREAT THREAD, I AM A NEWBIE AND WISH I CAME ACROSS THIS SOONER, I HAVE A '13 RT AND WAS RUNNING IT ACCORDING TO WHAT THE DEALER HAD TOLD ME. AFTER READING THIS I LEARNED THAT HIGHER RPMS IS THE ANSWER TO WHAT I THOUGHT WHERE MECHANICAL PROBLEMS. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THAT ANY ONE NEW TO SPYDER OWNER READ THIS POST. THANKS. :bowdown:

Glad you found the thread. Unfortunately a lot of bad information starts with the dealership. Salesman & mechanics that do not know diddly squat. My favorite from here - A group of riders from the lower 48 visited in 2015. Needed work done on one Spyder. Went to the "wrong" dealer. They did not even know where the battery was located. I fixed them up with the "right" dealer.

Ps: the "wrong" dealer no longer sells or services Spyders.

 

[ATC]

I think a lot of the RPM debate is age related. Older people grew up in a time where engine technology was going from points to an electronic module. Engines back then were designed to just cruise around at lower RPM's, and driving styles were laid back.
The technology in today's engines is amazing. For performance, efficiency, and now emissions, engines are designed to run at higher RPM's. The tight tolerances, quality alloys, bearings, and advancements in oil make the "wearing them out" issue non-existent.

When my dad went from a 1983 motorcycle to his 2006, I had to retrain him how to ride it. He was trying to ride at 2500-3500rpm. After explaining to him to keep it above 4k, he was amazed at how smooth it was, how much better it shifted, how much more power it had on tap, and how much more enjoyable it was to ride. That bike has 100k miles on it now...all stock, nothing done to it. I "grew up" riding inline 4-cylinders. They don't begin to wake up until 7k RPM. The Spyder is an inline 3. Ride it as such! Not like a big air-cooled twin...

 

[askitee]

HI Illinois boy.

Thanks for this thread and for maintaining it. I've had my 2017 RTL 14 months now and still come back to this thread from time to time just in case I missed something. May your rides be long and trouble free.

 

[Illinois Boy]

So I am a brand new Spyder owner. I've ridden less than 100 miles on my used 2008 GS SM5. I've done the drills and read the manual. Starting off slow as I learn this new way to ride. I've done some things right and some things wrong already. (Going to shift later and help the clutch and motor live longer!) I don't understand the "Don't try to hide behind the windshield" reminder. Can you give me some context? My used Spyder has an aftermarket tall wind screen which extends out to the grips. On a hot day I get almost no airflow through the vents on my ballistic jacket. I have the original short wind screen. Thanks for the great info. I'm going to check the fuses and battery connections when it comes back from the shop. Thanks again for the info and all of the helpful Spyderlovers out there!

This comment was not to be taken literally, but rather was an attempt to have new riders realize they are not in an enclosed vehicle when riding a Spyder, and the experience is not going to be the same. They should just enjoy the experience of being in the wind. That's all it was referencing. I'll edit it.
Ride safe and often,
Illinois Boy

 

[Dakotaskat]

This is a great thread. I have been given conflicting information from local mechanics and other riders. Does anyone have a link or site where BRP, Rotax, or CanAm provides this suggested shift point information for the 998cc SE5? My 2013 RT Limited SE5 manual says NOTHING.

 

[JKMSPYDER]

I had a 998 cc ST-S before I traded for an F3 with the 1330 triple. When upshifting the 998 shift at 5000 to 5500 RPM’s and you will be fine.

 

[Illinois Boy]

This is a great thread. I have been given conflicting information from local mechanics and other riders. Does anyone have a link or site where BRP, Rotax, or CanAm provides this suggested shift point information for the 998cc SE5? My 2013 RT Limited SE5 manual says NOTHING.

If you have a RTS SE5 with a 998 engine, put it into Trailer Mode to see what RPM's you can shift out of 1st gear. You'll find you cannot shift to 2nd gear till it hits higher RPM's.

 

[ARtraveler]

If you have a RTS SE5 with a 998 engine, put it into Trailer Mode to see what RPM's you can shift out of 1st gear. You'll find you cannot shift to 2nd gear till it hits higher RPM's.

The consensus appears to be: the 998 engine likes high revs. Keeping the engine at revs above 5000 all the time is best. At 5500 it seems to come alive. Once you find your exact "sweet spot" in the 5000's you will be happy.

We still drive our 2011 in that range all the time. At 65 mph 5500 will be what you end up with anyway. Others have cautioned about revs under 3000 on the 998. It lugs and will tend to burn out the clutch.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Others have cautioned about revs under 3000 on the 998. It lugs and will tend to burn out the clutch.

The ECM keeps a record of time vs rpm and shows it as a histogram in BUDs. If you have too much time below 4000 rpm your service tech may chastise you.

 

[TicketBait]

If you have a RTS SE5 with a 998 engine, put it into Trailer Mode to see what RPM's you can shift out of 1st gear. You'll find you cannot shift to 2nd gear till it hits higher RPM's.

In trailer mode my 2010 998 RT keeps me from shifting before 3500 rpm, sometimes this is frustrating , but also thankful BRP was thinking ahead :thumbup:

For any other shifting without trailer mode: This is a high rerving engine, so 3500-4500 is the norm, however out of trailer mode if you shift too soon you wil feel the engine lag. Oh and yes if you are on the freeway, shifting from 4th to 5th at 69-71 mph the RPM’s should be between 5200-5500 . This is optimal for engine life and smooth sailing hyea:

 

[ARtraveler]

The ECM keeps a record of time vs rpm and shows it as a histogram in BUDs. If you have too much time below 4000 rpm your service tech may chastise you.

Right on the money. When Ann and Joe did my wheel alignment, the histogram showed we passed.

 

[Hammer]

Very glad I read this before I pick mine up at dealer.
Informative and helpful for a first time Spyder Owner
Thanks to whoever helped and typed it all out

 

[steady]

New rider that was out for my first longish ride today. I could just feel like I didn't have the shifting down. This clears it up so much for me. I was feeling like it was riding better in high rpms but I didn't think it was good for the engine. Also I was going into 5th to much I gather Can't wait for my next ridee to get my shifting down from this post read. Thanks

 

[LarryC]

Thanks for the great thread. I learned a good bit reading it. I bought my 2015 F3-SM6 just over a week ago. So far I've only put 200 miles on it. Had read several other threads and the manual thoroughly. I changed the oil and filter today. Next week I will flush the clutch fluid and the brake fluid. I don't think it's ever been done before, going by the color of the fluids. Just downloaded a service manual. I intend to do most servicing myself. I was riding old Gold Wings for 20 years and did all my own maintenance with them. Need to sell off my Gold Wing parts. I could probably build a couple. I'll be posting often for a while. Lots of questions. As I live on a gravel road (.4 miles to pavement), so I'll be looking for advice on belt guards.

 

[Shadowrun]

who knows how many countless Headaches this saved me...

wow. Read all the hints.. tips.. instructions/do’s/dont’s/never’s/sometimes and ‘1day when your older’s
And enjoyed many of the comments that followed
Its one HELL of a MUST READ, and Great reference. ..Knocks the Socks clean off my Spyder Manual
(also thoroughly read thru).

[Unbelievably, mine actually had the Manual!
Thank You “Scott” for all the bookmarks, where ever you are!]

Noob Spyder Owner as of Halloween... a beautiful blue metallic 2019 F3-T w superlow miles.
I’m coming up to speed, 1 day and 1:read: at a time.

Can’t thank the author/community/everyone enough, for all the rrrrrridiculously helpful info (and pictures!)
And not just on my model. The comparisons with the other lines have been very insightful.
Been lurking for a few weeks, while I was teetering on whether to buy or not... and what to check when i did.
but whenever I went digging for more info... SpyderLovers always had the GoodStuff.

Got a few more interesting threads to delve into,
but just chiming in as yet another Highly grateful rYder
Can’t recommend it enough.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

:welcome:
On behalf of all the members of the forum, thank you very much for the kind words! :2thumbs:

 

[badkins]

Do's & Do nots

Enjoyed the in depth explanation on items of operation.
I have just joined the community as a new Can-am owner but lifetime 2-wheel rider.
I purchased a brand new 2019 Spyder RT Limited in August this year. Have put 820 miles on it and 750 miles on my Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Limited Classic, which I am selling or have listed it anyway for sale.
My wife is now going to ride with me (again) since I have a 3-wheeler!!
Looking forward to 2021, we are both retired and hope to ride a bunch.
Badkins

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Enjoyed the in depth explanation on items of operation.
I have just joined the community as a new Can-am owner but lifetime 2-wheel rider.
I purchased a brand new 2019 Spyder RT Limited in August this year. Have put 820 miles on it and 750 miles on my Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Limited Classic, which I am selling or have listed it anyway for sale.
My wife is now going to ride with me (again) since I have a 3-wheeler!!
Looking forward to 2021, we are both retired and hope to ride a bunch.
Badkins

:congrats: & :welcome: .... when I made the switch ( to Spyders ) back in 09, before I took it out for a test ride, the manager told me it doesn't handle like a Motorcycle ..... just drive it like a CAR ...... I had no issues and traded my 03 GW that day .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[CloverHillCrawler]

The ECM keeps a record of time vs rpm and shows it as a histogram in BUDs. If you have too much time below 4000 rpm your service tech may chastise you.

I'm now wondering how much I am going to get my hands slapped for over revving my 1330 when I take mine in for it's first service. Just in the process of learning and a few "fast takeoffs" I missed a few shifts and brought the revs up.

And after getting comfortable with riding on the highway I went to see my son down in Richmond on 95 there may have been a few times I went up to 90 mph just to pull out and get away from large groups of cars around me.

Will I end up in the BRP tech jail for some overrevving and excessive speed? I didn't realize that the nanny was also a tattletale!