**** "DO'S & DO NOTS" for NEW SPYDER OWNERS... ****

[bscofield84]

Great thread

Really appreciated this thread. Had great info, and answered some of my questions. Thanks much for sharing.

 

[joemcgriff]

Can’t move my beloved Spyder

Any advice on how to get my spyder into neutral when the battery is completely shot?

 

[JAS POWER]

Start new thread

Any advice on how to get my spyder into neutral when the battery is completely shot?

There is a way to do it manually. I thought it was in the owners manual, I searched in my manual with no luck.

I would suggest start a new thread You will get your answer for sure :dontknow:

 

[chewy52]

MUST READ FOR NEWBIES

THIS IS A GREAT POST,I AM A NEWBIE AND WISH I CAME ACROSS THIS SOONER,I HAVE A 13 RT AND WAS RUNNING IT ACCORDING TO WHAT THE DEALER HAD TOLD ME,AFTER READING THIS I LEARNED THAT HIGHER RPMS IS THE ANSWER TO WHAT I THOUGHT WHERE MECHANICAL PROBLEMS.I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THAT ANY ONE NEW TO SPYDER OWNER READ THIS POST. THANKS:bowdown::thumbup:

 

[ARtraveler]

THIS IS A GREAT POST,I AM A NEWBIE AND WISH I CAME ACROSS THIS SOONER,I HAVE A 13 RT AND WAS RUNNING IT ACCORDING TO WHAT THE DEALER HAD TOLD ME,AFTER READING THIS I LEARNED THAT HIGHER RPMS IS THE ANSWER TO WHAT I THOUGHT WHERE MECHANICAL PROBLEMS.I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THAT ANY ONE NEW TO SPYDER OWNER READ THIS POST. THANKS:bowdown::thumbup:

Glad you found the thread. Unfortunately a lot of bad information starts with the dealership. Salesman & mechanics that do not know diddly squat. My favorite from here. A group of riders from the lower 48 visited in 2015. Needed work done on one Spyder. Went to the "wrong" dealer. They did not even know where the battery was located. I fixed them up with the "right" dealer. PS. the "wrong" dealer no longer sells or services Spyders.

 

[gregsi]

New Spyder

Thanks for the list of things new Spyder owners should know. Picking my new RT Limited tomorrow. Going from Harleys to the Spyder. I hope I like the Spyder as much as I liked the Harleys.

 

[rykerman]

Thanks!!

This is a GREAT article, it helped me Immensely.

 

[Smithm1498]

Great information here. I truly have learned a lot.

 

[Zoot]

EVERY FORUM should have a sticky like this one. Great job!!

 

[SgtRay]

I just got mine Sat and I'm glad I found this post! Thanks!

 

[ATC]

I think a lot of the RPM debate is age related. Older people grew up in a time where engine technology was going from points to an electronic module. Engines back then were designed to just cruise around at lower RPM's, and driving styles were laid back.
The technology in today's engines is amazing. For performance, efficiency, and now emissions, engines are designed to run at higher RPM's. The tight tolerances, quality alloys, bearings, and advancements in oil make the "wearing them out" issue non-existent.

When my dad went from a 1983 motorcycle to his 2006, I had to retrain him how to ride it. He was trying to ride at 2500-3500rpm. After explaining to him to keep it above 4k, he was amazed at how smooth it was, how much better it shifted, how much more power it had on tap, and how much more enjoyable it was to ride. That bike has 100k miles on it now...all stock, nothing done to it. I "grew up" riding inline 4-cylinders. They don't begin to wake up until 7k RPM. The Spyder is an inline 3. Ride it as such! Not like a big air-cooled twin...

 

[askitee]

HI Illinois boy.

Thanks for this post and maintaining it. I've had my 2017 RTL 14 months now and still come back to this post from time to time just in case I missed something. May your rides be long and trouble free.

 

[Illinois Boy]

So I am a brand new Spyder owner. I've ridden less than 100 miles on my used 2008 GS SM5. I've done the drills and read the manual. Starting off slow as I learn this new way to ride. I've done some things right and some things wrong already. (Going to shift later and help the clutch and motor live longer!) I don't understand the "Don't try to hide behind the windshield" reminder. Can you give me some context? My used Spyder has an aftermarket tall wind screen which extends out to the grips. On a hot day I get almost no airflow through the vents on my ballistic jacket. I have the original short wind screen. Thanks for the great info. I'm going to check the fuses and battery connections when it comes back from the shop. Thanks again for the info and all of the helpful Spyderlovers out there!

This comment was not to be taken literally, but rather was an attempt to have new riders realize they are not in an enclosed vehicle when riding a Spyder, and the experience is not going to be the same. They should just enjoy the experience of being in the wind. That's all it was referencing. I'll edit it.
Ride safe and often,
Illinois Boy

 

[Dakotaskat]

This is a great thread. I have been given conflicting information from local mechanics and other riders. Does anyone have a link or site where BRP, Rotax, or CanAm provides this suggested shift point information for the 998cc SE5? My 2013 RT Limited SE5 manual says NOTHING.

 

[JKMSPYDER]

I had a 998 cc ST-S before I traded for an F3 with the 1330 triple. When upshifting the 998 shift at 5000 to 5500 RPM’s and you will be fine.

 

[Illinois Boy]

This is a great thread. I have been given conflicting information from local mechanics and other riders. Does anyone have a link or site where BRP, Rotax, or CanAm provides this suggested shift point information for the 998cc SE5? My 2013 RT Limited SE5 manual says NOTHING.

If you have a RTS SE5 with a 998 engine, put it into Trailer Mode to see what RPM's you can shift out of 1st gear. You'll find you cannot shift to 2nd gear till it hits higher RPM's.

 

[ARtraveler]

If you have a RTS SE5 with a 998 engine, put it into Trailer Mode to see what RPM's you can shift out of 1st gear. You'll find you cannot shift to 2nd gear till it hits higher RPM's.

The consensus appears to be: the 998 engine likes high revs. Keeping the engine at revs above 5000 all the time is best. At 5500 it seems to come alive. Once you find your exact "sweet spot" in the 5000's you will be happy.

We still drive our 2011 in that range all the time. At 65 mph 5500 will be what you end up with anyway. Others have cautioned about revs under 3000 on the 998. It lugs and will tend to burn out the clutch.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Others have cautioned about revs under 3000 on the 998. It lugs and will tend to burn out the clutch.

The ECM keeps a record of time vs rpm and shows it as a histogram in BUDs. If you have too much time below 4000 rpm your service tech may chastise you.

 

[TicketBait]

If you have a RTS SE5 with a 998 engine, put it into Trailer Mode to see what RPM's you can shift out of 1st gear. You'll find you cannot shift to 2nd gear till it hits higher RPM's.

In trailer mode my 2010 998 RT keeps me from shifting before 3500 rpm, sometimes this is frustrating , but also thankful BRP was thinking ahead :thumbup:

For any other shifting without trailer mode: This is a high rerving engine, so 3500-4500 is the norm, however out of trailer mode if you shift too soon you wil feel the engine lag. Oh and yes if you are on the freeway, shifting from 4th to 5th at 69-71 mph the RPM’s should be between 5200-5500 . This is optimal for engine life and smooth sailing hyea:

 

[Little Blue]

A Must Read List

I just want everyone to know and understand.

This is a great 'Sticky Note' . I read it every year.
...:thumbup: